What braided stainless hose do you huts suggest?

EDIT .... Suppose to say What braided stainless hose to you guys suggest? Darn spelling auto correction. LOLs.

Folks,

I'm making my order list for braided stainless hose for AN fittings and I'm surprised how incomplete the description is on JEGs and Summits sites. Of coarse all the different manufacturers want you to use their ends with their hose and I'm sure that has to do with hose id and od's. I understand the difference in ptfe (stiffer, less bendable) and the standard stuff (more flexible) but the manufacturers descriptions don't give max psi ratings. I really want the stainless stuff and not the black braided stuff or the push on hose.

I'll be making power steer, transmission, EFI, heater, and possibly radiator ( cause I don't like how the convoluted stainless tubing looks). I'll be hard lining the brakes with stainless and using factory made stainless flex on the ends.

Anyone use the Jegs Pro Flo 200 for EFI and power steering hoses?

This will be my first stab at making AN hoses. A lot of videos out there. Just getting confused. Was hoping there was a brand/model that would do all of them so I don't have a pile of mixed brand fittings.

David

stick with one brand if you wish i used other hose ends on others hose hard to beat aerouip stainless has a bust rate with rubber liner on smaller hose its 1000+psi the cloth /nylon is the way to go i think for working with .but for look some like ss hose but watch this stuff were you mount it and how ....as from it moving .makes i fine rasp file and will cut threw valve cover or any thing that it can work on in time you will have a hole

1st thing is sizes..........all AN fitting are based on 16th's..........so a #4AN is 1/4". Just divide the the number 4 into 16 and you get 1/4" and so on for the rest of the numbered AN fittings.
Next and Pat is right, if you start with say Earls lines, then stick with Earls fittings.
I have used braided rubber lines for fuel but when it comes to transmission cooler lines & power steering lines, I used Aeroquip with the teflon liners. They are very different to connect to the braided line. They have a ferrule that has to be put between the outside rubber and inside teflon before you stick the threaded connection into the hose.
To make the braided hose connection it is critical the when you put the threaded part into the hose and start turning it ,you do not push the hose out. I also use a air cutoff tool to cut the braided line. Just measure where you want to cut and then put a piece of electrical tape and on the tape make your mark. When you cut through the tape it is less likley to fray the ends of the line.
Since this is the first time doing this I would get someone who has made them to show you all the little things you will need to know.
Another thing..........get ready for lots of tiny pin holes in your fingers!!!
You will spend some bucks on lines and fittings and if you do not get them together correctly, they will leak .

Thanks both of you. I like the Aeroquip teflon hose but it looks like all they make is -6 and -08 AN hose in it?

Aeroquip makes all the sizes, whichever supplier you're looking at probably just doesn't stock them all. Might want to check with Speedway on the Aeroquip, too.

no they make -3.-4 most of it is for very hi psi . trans lines do not need to be teflon there abit more work as they have that we call a olive that needs to be put on the end of the line can be fun .plane ss line can be fun to like sunsetdart said i fined a very thin cut off disc wheel works the best for ss lines. make shure you keep wires from getting in the thread s of fitting must be clean of any fagments of steel in hose i use to build them with dawn soap then wash them out with water then blow out with air

Ha ha. Thanks everyone. I finally used my noggin and found Aeroquips site. Awesome site. They literally have everything I was needing. Specs, what ends intended for what hose, etc. Can order direct from them without the hassle of calling a sales rep at Jeg's, Speedway, or Summit and the price wasn't too off. Belive me, I would've had anyone I talked to completely confused. :LOL::LOL: Like you said Dave, they don't have half of what they sell in their catalog or on the site, Speedway, Summit, or Jeg's. And their part numbers are way off compared to Aeroquips site.

I'm going with the teflon for power steer and fuel and the AQP for everything else. I assume the ferrul/ring thingy your talking about Pat comes with the fittngs when I order them? I'm not seeng them by themselves for sale. Transmission is relatively low pressure.....correct?

Thumbs up for Eaton/Aeroquips web site. :) And I'm supporting my local economy. Aeroquip has a facilty less than an hour from me come to find out.

David

David,
I think if I were doing very many SS braid hoses I would invest in a Koul Tool - save lots of grief and sore fingers Koul Tools AN Hose Assembly Tools - YouTube

Yes Randy. I looked at those this a.m. Jegs has them. I don't need the cutter though. I'd rather use the cutoff tool.

I found that max line pressure with an extreme trans tune wouldn't exceed 240 psi.

Thanks,
David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rspears

David,
I think if I were doing very many SS braid hoses I would invest in a Koul Tool - save lots of grief and sore fingers Koul Tools AN Hose Assembly Tools - YouTube

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Yes Randy. I looked at those this a.m. Jegs has them. I don't need the cutter though. I'd rather use the cutoff tool.

I found that max line pressure with an extreme trans tune wouldn't exceed 240 psi.

Thanks,
David

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David,
I agree - I've found that a thin cutoff wheel in an angle grinder does an excellent job cutting hoses if you use the tape trick. I use a couple of wraps of masking tape, and then blow out the hose before installing.

Roger

yep i done trans lines with push lock and just plane ss rubber hose yes on the teflon hose the fitting comes with the olive that part can not get re used .getting holes in the end of my fingers really no big deal . but when you get one of them wires under the finger nail that there will make the pee run down your leg

Here is a site with good info on Earl's stuff....even if you dont buy from them,
their info is handy

American Street Rod - Performance Plumbing

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Thanks both of you. I like the Aeroquip teflon hose but it looks like all they make is -6 and -08 AN hose in it?

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Very good choice and product, top quality.

Aeroquip Hose for High Performance Automotive/Racing Applications

Do yourself a favor and buy this tool
Heavy Duty Braided Hose Cutter - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

I have the trans cooler lines/fittings/adapters as well as the Kool tool kit, assembly lube etc. I figured I'd better do this in stages or I'm going to lose track of what I planned on for adapters. :LOL::LOL:

Thanks to everyone for their help. My mind was a bit boggled with visions of fittings and adapters dancing in my head. I spent the last few days searching for options to go AN for coolant hoses and kinda drawing a blank. One of the guys on a LS site said he uses 16 (top) and 12 (bottom) but that equates to 1"and 3/4". He has a stock LS but I still can't believe he's not having cooling issues because the factory outlet in the LS is 1 1/2" (top) and 1 1/4" (bottom) which equates to -24AN and -20AN. I'm not finding much in the way of -24AN hose or fittings. I'm concidering 20 (1 1/4") and 16 (1"). What do you guys use on small/big blocks? They're 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" correct? If you have or we're going to use AN hose what size would you use n a small/big block? I really want to match all of the other hoses and hard work I'm going to be putting into them. I installed the flex stainless corregated stuff from Speedway and I just don't like them. :(

To couple these I'm going to use the male weld bungs from ARP. On the pump I'll remove the stainless top outlet which is press fit in, cover the hole with a blank piece of aluminum, and move the AN bung to the top eliminating my space issue between the electric fan and the pump. Not much room. As far as the thermostat (which is on the bottom of pump), a couple places make AN housings. Then weld the appropriate bungs on the radiator. I'm loving my TIG by the way! :D

Thanks,
David

Anyone know someone on here that has used AN hoses for their coolant lines? Jerry? Pat?

The lower hose in a 16 should work as the after market themo housing I found uses it. But what confuses me is that reducing an existing hose size would be a restriction which would affect pressure and more importantly flow. A lot of the LS guys change out their water pumps to get more flow. Factory rated pressure on mine is 55 gpm. I could install an Edelbrock pump bumping it up to 85 gpm to get my flow back with the restricted new hose size?

I have a feeling I'm over thinking this thing. But I just don't want to install all of this only to pull it all off and junk it later. :(

David

I don't like the restriction either, I still stick with rubber hoses. A -20 is closer, but the id is till a bit restrictive....and with the cost on the big sizes I'm just too tight to spend $100+ on radiator hoses!!! Some properly sized stainless tube with mandrel bends and a couple of short rubber hoses works good!

Thanks Dave. I may go that route, using some 1 1/2" polished aluminum intake tubing and rubber hose as a coupler on both ends. Yes, I saw the price of the 20AN fittings and was a little discouraged but they are reusable.

David

David/Dave S - Speedway has some pre bent tubing that you can consider. They have a single piece which I have recently installed as well as made up sets for flatheads that can be used. This is mine, modified a bit for the offset water neck on my Ford - and it's 1.500. I also bought a foot length of their silicone hose and the Gates shrink fit clamps - the clamps only installed on the one side so it can still be removed;

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1751.jpg

That makes a good looking set up too. I've used a the Speedway aluminum pieces a few times, especially the one's with the bung welded in to install a 2nd temp sensor on EFI engines, seems I always need one for the computer and one for the gauges and the resistance specified is always different!!!!

Oh I like those Gates clamps. Figured I would use them if I went with the conventional hoses. I just copied the link to that Speedway tubing. Thanks Dave W.

Wish I had that much room. My water pump pulley nipple is buried in my fan support (like yours), only my coolant outlet is nearly flush with the pulley from a side view. And the top coolant outlet is long, coming straight out preventing many options. At this time the hose has a hard 90 right on the outlet, going straight up and still laying against the electric fan housing.

David

I just use Summit stuff. I order everything I need, anything I think I need, an some of what I might need, and return anything I don't use.

Keep your cutoff wheel, the long handled cutters do the job spot on, nothing to blow out.

You can get the Teflon hose in all sizes, I keep it in stock but no good to you guys, I much prefer to use Teflon over the Rubber one, The rubber can crack with age and leaks develop and you won't spot it under the braid until i gets very bad, Teflon won't do this, also the Teflon hose is cheaper than the rubber.

The Koul clamps are nice but expensive and you don't really need them, as for cutting the hose the easiest way is with a pair of hose cutters, I've been make up hoses for the last 40 years and tried them all and the cutters do the job perfecty, you don't even need to use tape.


http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91089802_L.jpg

That sure is the right tool for that, hose lube goes along way to make the assembly of the fittings easier.