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These were tapped before I bought the heads. The taps that I have won't do the job. They are your normal Sears taps. I feel comfortable with cutting the studs down. Thought about grinding a tap down, but I'm not going to do that. Chances are that I'll get the washers. Only if the clearance isn't there. I haven't changed anything on the top parts of the stud, so they should still work right. 8 done, but one still needs to be grinded down a little. Thanks again guys.
IFIFIFIF----IF the holes are deeper than the length of lower part of the stud, you are giving up probably 1/3 of the strength available from this modification be cause you only have a sears tap!!!!!
measure how deep the holes are, and the length of the lower stud--if the holes are deeper than the stud length, you need to get a proper tap and do the holes---
I would say they didn't use the correct tap to do the job. Hole depth 1 1/16th. Stud 1 inch. I can run my tap down to 1 1/16th, but it's not the correct tap. I'll do some checking to see if I can get the right tap before going any further. I could try and grind my tap down, but I'll look first.
Found the bottoming out tap and possibly a stud kit so I can get the nuts with the studs since I need them. I'll just go that route. Not to bad a price on both. Just waiting for a picture of the parts on the kit before I purchase them. Really want to say thanks again.
This I copied from McMaster-Carr cataloque about tapers on taps
Chamfers
Taper
Plug
Bottoming
The chamfer is the reduced thread height at the front of the tap that guides the tap into the hole. There are three types of chamfers:
Taper Chamfer—Has 7 to 10 chamfered threads. Use for starting threads and in through holes. Requires less torque than other chamfers.
Plug Chamfer—Has 3 to 5 chamfered threads. Use in through holes as well as in blind holes that have sufficient space at the bottom for chips to accumulate.
Bottoming Chamfer—Has 1 to 2 chamfered threads. Variations of the bottoming chamfer include semi-bottoming, which has 2 to 2 1/2 chamfered threads, and modified bottoming, which has 2 1/2 to 4 chamfered threads. Use in blind holes where threads must come as close to the hole's bottom as possible.
Always bought mine in sets of three. McMaster - Carr is where I buy them..
I did buy a Blackhawk tap today. Since there are already threads tapped, this should do the trick. :)
LOOKS LIKE ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE HEAR? your not loosing any thing cutting them studs down that much. i am doing a 455 stroker heads studs are out of the heads and are just stock bbc were the ARP you have are for more like a alum bbc head long as you have 7/16 to 1/2 going in the head your fine
What I was taught you don't need much more than the dia. in the hole to hold.
in ALUM head you want all you can get but there not Alum and them studs are longer then stock bbc that what i have used in the past and what s at the shop now .that i am working on now with a 680 solid roller cam . what come in to play is the base /shoulder as well on the stud the base keeps the rocker from pulling the stud over but that s not going to happen on a mild build and you could EZ get away with 7/16 EZ as the dia is 7/16Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Should be ok then. I bought the tap so I'll tap the other head. I think it's around 60 for the nuts alone. But I see I can get a kit for 85. I'll have to find the 7/16th nuts yet. I walked away from the heads earlier today.
if you need poly locks i have them or use a bbc stock nut . you can tap them deeper but you have the wrong studs to long no big deal cut them down this is no big deal have to make stuff fit all the time
Sounds good to me. I'll just buy the rocker nuts then.
South Dakota has no snow on the eastern side. Somethings wrong here. Maybe that's been my problem all the time.