Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree3Likes

Thread: Royal Purple 20w50 oil
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19
  1. #1
    Simi Mike's Avatar
    Simi Mike is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    simi valley
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 deuce
    Posts
    67

    Royal Purple 20w50 oil

     



    Does anyone use this in their hot rod? I have about 1500 miles on my small block chevy. I want to give this engine, its first oil change. Some of my car friends say, try the Royal Purple 20w50 oil. Its $8.99 a qt. I live in So. Cal - - -is 20w50 the oil I really want to put in my car?

  2. #2
    roadster32's Avatar
    roadster32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    watford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 26T Coupe, 32 Roadster, 41 Willys Coupe
    Posts
    2,363

    Yep the run good on 20W-50
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  3. #3
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    11,124

    If you believe you need the extra protection I'd look at either Brad Penn's Racing Oils Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oil or Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oils Joe Gibbs Driven - Hot Rod Oils. Both are the oils my engine builder recommends for everything coming out of his shop for racing, but when pressed he agreed that any good over the counter oil like Castrol or Valvoline was fine for a street/highway cruiser. The 20W50 seems a bit high in viscosity to me, but you're in a warm climate so it may be OK. Here I run 10W30 or 10W40. Gibbs has a good discussion about viscosity on his site.
    Last edited by rspears; 01-03-2012 at 08:44 PM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  4. #4
    1bad32's Avatar
    1bad32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Valencia
    Car Year, Make, Model: Ford 32 3 window coupe
    Posts
    315

    My best Friend lives in Simi,,,any good Hot Rod GTG's out there??
    I live in Valencia and will be getting mine at the end of the month.
    NICE GUYS FINISH FIRST.....

  5. #5
    sunsetdart is offline Banned Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Pottstown
    Posts
    441

    I used Castrol 20-50W in my pro street Dart. It worked fine and cost is lot less then RP. If you change you oil every 3000 mi, think how much $$$ you will save using a brand name like Castrol, Pennzoil etc..

  6. #6
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    UPSTATE New York
    Posts
    4,336

    Royal Purple and Amsoil are fine oils, but at $12 - $13 a quart locally are just not in the running. Too many good oils available - and for me, I run what Ford recommends and that's their semi-synthetic Motorcraft at about $3 a quart. Previously, it was all Valvoline. If you have a flat lifter engine, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs or Rotella. The weight - why 20W-50? Do you have a full out engine or just a mild one? If it's a mild one, 10W30 or 40 should suffice. Thick oil and windage/splash wont help horsepower
    rspears likes this.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  7. #7
    ojh
    ojh is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Berryville
    Posts
    486

    What cam do you have in the car? mechanical or roller? if mechanical then go with Gibbs' (my favorite) or Brad Penns' because they have the lead/zinc additves for mechanical cams; if you have modern roller put whatever tickles your fancy, 50w sounds ok to me if you have carburated motor but if you have modern injected motor the heavy weight oil may squew the temps and the 'putor might do some odd stuff - i am not sayin that it will, it is just a thought.

  8. #8
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Got to know what cam is in the engine...Flat tappet cams must have zinc in the oil--Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn are probably the best of these. However roller cams thrive on the reduced friction of synthetics--my personal favorite is still Mobil 1 racing, 10W50. The Ford semi-synthetic is also very good oil for roller cammed engines, I've run that in a few because it's reasonably priced and available at Ford dealers and most parts stores....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  9. #9
    Simi Mike's Avatar
    Simi Mike is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    simi valley
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 deuce
    Posts
    67

    I've been taking my rod to "Dave's Garage" (custom car shop) at 649 Easy Street, Simi Valley. He's one of the few honest guys that backs up his work. He's an old time hot rodder himself, and
    We also have "Hawaiian Racing" for all your racing needs. Only problem is - - --
    because its the only speed shop within 50 miles of us, he prices are "pricey"

  10. #10
    Simi Mike's Avatar
    Simi Mike is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    simi valley
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 deuce
    Posts
    67

    I've got the Comp Thumper Cam Hydraulic, with a 479 lift, aluminum roller rockers, with Brodix 1K180 64cc Aluminum heads. I also have the Edelbrock performer manifold with the 600 cfm Edelbrock carb. This is all new to me, since I purchased the rod and motor, already finished. It's like - - - going back a few steps, and hiking the ball all over again !

  11. #11
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Ok, is it a hydraulic flat tappet, or a hydraulic roller cam??? That's what determines the oil requirements, Mike!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  12. #12
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Quote Originally Posted by Simi Mike View Post
    I've been taking my rod to "Dave's Garage" (custom car shop) at 649 Easy Street, Simi Valley. He's one of the few honest guys that backs up his work. He's an old time hot rodder himself, and
    We also have "Hawaiian Racing" for all your racing needs. Only problem is - - --
    because its the only speed shop within 50 miles of us, he prices are "pricey"

    Hmmmmm. must go with the name!!!! A guy just asked me yesterday if I could give him a special deal and lower my prices.... I said sure, if he wouldn't mind that I lowered my quality!!! End of negotiations. He left after I suggested a few other shops he might try...
    glennsexton likes this.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  13. #13
    Trulyvintage is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dayton
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1925 Chevy
    Posts
    2

    Lightbulb Might try diesel oil ...

     



    Sounds strange, but I would run 15/40 diesel oil ..

    It will keep your engine cleaner, especially if you
    don't run it everyday ...

    I run Castrol Tection, others like Rotella



    Jim

  14. #14
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,788

    This subject comes up often here, when I put in my engine I was asking the same questions. I was steered towards an oil additive called SFR oil fortifier. It cost a bit, but you just add it to your oil of choice and it puts in stuff like zinc to protect your cam. No problems yet, and a lot cheaper than 9-13 dollars a quart. I was also using 10-40 and it gets cooler here than Simi Valley. 20-50 sounds a bit thick, but I don't know much about high performance engines, or racing engines. I bought a quart of it for about 32 bucks a few years back and still have half a bottle of it. It goes for $132.00 a gallon on amazon, but that will treat 128 quarts of oil. So that covers quite a few oil changes. It has zddp in it which lots of other premium oils use. You can read about it here. http://www.sfrcorp.com/product/sfr-1...oil-fortifier/
    Last edited by stovens; 01-04-2012 at 09:24 AM.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  15. #15
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    been many post on oil and i posted this many times you can buy a pint of Zddp and added it and hope it works with your oil . lake speed tolds us that detergent oils and thats 99% of the oil out there will strip the ZDDP off the parts you want it on. or block it from working its way in to the parts so you will just have stuff laying in the bottom of the oil pan . i build /machine engines i buy oil made to work and that oil as ZDDP in it. brad pen or joe gibs this is the only oil i use on break in less a roller engine . were is really no need to run 20/50 but you may want a multi weigth . i like to break them in on break in oil get about 800 miles on them and then run what you want for oil i like to see my customers use good oil but you start getting past 6 +bucks a QT i worry that they may keep it in to long and get cheap when it needs to be changed out and use a good oil filter just about any fittler but fram . good ones are wix.s napa. k.n jomar
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-04-2012 at 12:26 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink