Cam won't just slip out.

[Itoldyouso]

I've been tearing down the 351 roller cam motor I bought for my Mustang and tonight when I tried to remove the cam it wouldn't slip out like every other cam I have ever removed in my life. In fact, I had to put a pair of vice grips on the snout and it was hard to turn.

I have everything removed, lifters, distributor, the plate that keeps the cam in, so I know it isn't anything like that, and I have done enough cams to know that part isn't holding it. What I was able to do was make a quick puller that utilizes the 3/8 bolt that goes into the center of the cam and by tightening it down I got it to move out of the first set of bearings, but when the journals started to enter the bearings for the next portion of the move, it stopped dead.

I am not worried about getting it out, I will buy some 3/8 all thread tomorrow and fashion a longer puller to bring it out the rest of the way, but I would like to know how the bearings got so tight on the journals. Have any of you run into this before?

The rest of the engine looks machinable, it is a Ford reman engine and is already bored 40 over, but the machine shop says 60 shouldn't be a problem, especially since it will be a mild engine. The mains and rod bearings and all the crank journals look good, so I don't think the tight cam created any problems that way. I will be running a different cam with new bearings, so that part doesn't worry me.

Oh, as I was pulling the cam with my puller a very thin ring of the number 4 cam bearing came out with the cam, like the bearing was too small and I had pulled the edge of the bearing off. Any ideas?

Thanks guys.

Don

[stovens]

Yikes, never encountered that Don, but I've only rebuilt a few engines, I'm sure Pat and Jerry will be more valuable here!

[Itoldyouso]

Yeah Steve, usually you have to watch because they want to fall out on their own almost. I don't know if the bearings got installed crooked or what.

Don

[pat mccarthy]

cam was digging in to the cam bearing s wear from many miles dirty oil heavy build up were bearing are not on the cam lack of oil heat many miles of hard use

[Itoldyouso]

That makes sense, Pat, The oil was really dirty and this engine was in an F350 truck that worked hard. I guess you have seen this before on the engines you have torn down? And I also guess new cam bearings and a new cam and lifters will correct it?

The funny part is that the rods and mains look fine.

Thanks for the info.

Don

[pat mccarthy]

yes i seen sticky cams carb cleaner helps if just varnish, best to check lifter bore for slop in bores can be check with a lifter see how much play you have

[Itoldyouso]

Thanks Pat. I'm hauling it to the guy who did Dan's motor, probably tomorrow. I'll have him check that out.

Don

[BlownCenturion]

Did you remember to pull the fuel pump pushrod out?

[pat mccarthy]

Did you remember to pull the fuel pump pushrod out?

fords do not used them

[Itoldyouso]

Yep, Chevys do, Ford's don't. Everything is removed it is a bare block with just the cam in it now. I've played with Fords for a while so I know what needs removed and the sequence, and was super surprised when I went to turn the cam over and it was hard to turn. I put a long bolt in the end to use as a handle, expecting to be able to just pull it out as I always have done, but it wouldn't budge. I made a quick puller and got the cam to pop loose of the bearings enough to come out to where the journals now start engaging the next set of bearings and that is where it stopped again. So today I have to pick up some allthread to make a longer puller to get it out the rest of the way.

Pat's explanation is exactly what is going on. Not sure of the exact cause but some metal was formed into a lip on the cam bearings over time. When I used the puller that very thin ring of bearing came out and was wrapped around the cam. It was thin like a piece of wire but it was evident where it had come from.

I would guess guys like Pat and Jerry who tear engines down on a daily basis have seen this before, but it was a new one on me. There was also a lot of slop in the timing chain (a double roller) maybe from it having to work hard to turn the cam in it's bound up condition.

Don

[BradC]

Don,
Years ago I bought 5 327 small blocks, for my race car while tearing down all of them I ran into the same thing the cam wouldn't come out of one block. I left alone so when they hot tanked the motor the bearings melted and the cam fell out.
BradC

[pat mccarthy]

Don,
Years ago I bought 5 327 small blocks, for my race car while tearing down all of them I ran into the same thing the cam wouldn't come out of one block. I left alone so when they hot tanked the motor the bearings melted and the cam fell out.
BradC

yep you can do that but for $1000. they will haul the wast out of the hot tank and it cost about $500 to put the caustic soap this is the nasty stuff you can get any more.get any in your eyes do not plan on useing them if lucky you may see out of them . let me tell you i learn this the hard way when the tank stop cleaning that stuff will eat alum but kills the soap very fast. bars leak hurts the charge as well

[Itoldyouso]

I can get it out tonight, I'm sure. I only quit last night because it was getting late. My homemade puller will do the trick I bet.

Don

[pat mccarthy]

I can get it out tonight, I'm sure. I only quit last night because it was getting late. My homemade puller will do the trick I bet.

Don

put the top gear back on the cam use two pry bars under the gear and block . set block on bell housing so cam gear is facing the sky spray some oil on cam turn the cam with cam bolt abit then pry turn and pry and turn cam and pry... you get this it is a trying prying thing ..... it will come out this is the best way trust me

[stovens]

See I knew Pat would have some good way to do this! Pat your a great resource!