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I'm getting a rattly brake pedal and in doing a little research, find that others have made a helper spring/hold off from a McMaster-Carr spring and a collar. There are several others already made up by vendors, but that's just not as much fun:HMMM:
Anyone else tried this kind of fix??
I've seen it done that way, Dave, but what I have done a couple of times is use one of those studs that have the rubber tops on them, like Mustangs have as underhood bumpers. With a nut on either side of a fabricated bracket you can adjust the rubber part up against the pedal, near the part that goes to the MC to keep it held firmly and not rattle. Some factory cars have a rubber bumper like that where the pedal also hits against it, doing the same thing.
Just another way of doing it.
Don
Thanks Don. You reminded me - that is similar to what I did with my long gone T bucket - memories do fade.
What I also, after doing my thinking and after posting this, is to kill that rattle AND make sure the MC push rod is fully retracted so I don't have any brake drag
Dave,
I'm assuming this is a stout spring and the collar is on the actuating rod coming out of the MC? My first thought was how did you hear the rattle? I may need to look at mine for the pedal drag, but there's no way I'd hear the pedal rattling with my exhaust note!
Roger - that's what I'm considering. A stout spring and a collar. The spring is $8.40 and the collar is $.67 from McMaster-Carr. I need a couple of other items from them as well, so will give it a try.
Now, hearing it - when I depress the brake pedal, it clatters, also on deceleration. While driving along at 60mph or so, :LOL::LOL::LOL:
I'm more concerned with brake drag though as those Wilwood rotors and pads are not cheap to replace
Can you post a link to the spring you're looking at? You have an under floor mount, right? What's your fixed pull point?
Roger - this is the spring: McMaster-Carr and the collars: McMaster-Carr. I'm ordering the 1/4 through 1/2 inch just to make sure I cover the push rod diameter(supposed to be 3/8, but who knows what liberties TCI took)
Not sure what you mean by fixed pull point so wont guess:)
Oh, that's a different type spring than I was envisioning, and I like that approach. I was thinking of a tension spring, anchored to the frame or ??, extending when you push the brake, and pulling it back when released. Thanks for the links, and I'll be intrested to hear how it works for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Dave, is this an example of your spring/collar idea? Do you have a booster attached to the m/c?
Mike
Mike, that does the same thing as what I'm going to do tho not quite as heavy duty. One of our late members and friend, Jay Carnine(C9X) and others actually did approximately what I'm going to do with mine - or at least try:D Not a big deal to make - an hour or so, but a couple of hours "playing" while laying on my back under the car:CRY:
This is a photo of his:
Attachment 50300
One of the nice things about the Don's HR setup is that cap/collar he makes for the end of the master cylinder. Not only does it act as a stop for the spring but it's a debris cap as well replacing the rubber boot. Since that cavity faces forward on most under floor arrangements it's a nice/necessary feature to include.
But the 1-800 part is nowhere near as much fun as one you make yourself:D
While I'm going to try to use C9X's general design, I don't even have a rubber boot on mine as TCI neglected to supply one even after a couple of complaints to them plus I "forgot" to add one when I did final assembly, will try to make up one from aluminum that will fit against the end snap ring which I believe holds the innards in place.
The McMaster order will be here today, along with a Summit order so honey-do's will be put aside for a day or so
If it all works, photos will be posted for others to consider.
