Thread: mini bike frame

Tweet

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

Thanks
From what I have found out is that its a RUPP "Continental" from the late 60's. Great its older then I thought.
What would be best to refinish the paint? I was going to use some type of rust converter on the rust and sand, not taking off as much of the original paint if I dont have too. I am stuck with rattle cans though. Heres a pic of 2 bikes thats been restore. Pretty basic bike , but thats a good thing IMO.

BigTruckDriver,
When you say you want to "...not take off as much of the original paint...." do you mean you want to keep the old patina, making it look its age; or do you mean that you don't want to strip it to bare metal before painting? If you're wanting to refinish the frame like those in the pictures just sand it smooth, and get a primer and finish color from Krylon or Rustoleum. A metal etching primer would be a bonus if they have it. Rattle can paint is very thin to atomize through that small orifice, so you need to put on three or four thin coats at each step to get a good coat of finish.

Originally Posted by rspears

BigTruckDriver,
When you say you want to "...not take off as much of the original paint...." do you mean you want to keep the old patina, making it look its age; or do you mean that you don't want to strip it to bare metal before painting? If you're wanting to refinish the frame like those in the pictures just sand it smooth, and get a primer and finish color from Krylon or Rustoleum. A metal etching primer would be a bonus if they have it. Rattle can paint is very thin to atomize through that small orifice, so you need to put on three or four thin coats at each step to get a good coat of finish.

Thanks for the input guys.
Itoldyouso= your a dare devil,lol. 6.5hp, that motors HUGE. The bike looks beautiful though.
Rspears= No I dont want the original patina , I just didnt want to strip it too bare metal as you said. After taking it apart though I think stripping it would be best.

I'd go with Por 15 for inside the frame. The stuff coats and coverts rust, and a little goes a long way. It is a very thin paint that should take care of any rust issues you have, then maybe go with less of the "Tim the tool man Taylor" approach, as Don said, more power on one of those can be scary!
Had a friend put a huge marine patrol out board on a small cubby cabin fishing boat, used to be like putting your life in your hands going out in his boat, especially before he put a floor in over the exposed stringers. Lightening quick power and no stable platform equals disaster!

Originally Posted by stovens

I'd go with Por 15 for inside the frame. The stuff coats and coverts rust, and a little goes a long way. It is a very thin paint that should take care of any rust issues you have, then maybe go with less of the "Tim the tool man Taylor" approach, as Don said, more power on one of those can be scary!
Had a friend put a huge marine patrol out board on a small cubby cabin fishing boat, used to be like putting your life in your hands going out in his boat, especially before he put a floor in over the exposed stringers. Lightening quick power and no stable platform equals disaster!

POR 15 has crossed my mind,lol. I used the stuff on a rear end and applied it with a brush. It leveled out and is a thick coating that attaches to the metal real good. Have you tried to top coat POR 15 with a rattle can? I think I might sand blast the frame and use the POR to seal the frame up and then top coat. I think that would be as durable as I can do in my garage.

EDIT: looking on the web top coating POR is kinda iffy. 50% say yes no problems and 50% so no bad idea. Maybe I just do the insides of the tubes as you suggested. I will be sandblasting the frame now(change in plans) I need to go to the paint shop and get some self etching primer and paint in spray cans. What type of paint would be best , most durable, got 3 young ones that will try there best to tear it up,lol?