Engine stand bolts??.

All the grade 8 bolts I have ever found are a 1/2 too short or a 1/2 too long requiring washers.I have some still in my engine stand and before I had a coffee labeled engine stand bolts.I wanted to be sure on a sbc that I had sufficient enough threads in the back of the engine without bottoming out the bolt in the hole preventing the engine to be tight to the stand.

You guys have interesting solutions to simple issues.I was wondering if anyone has worked out a solution to retaining the bolts in the stand so everytime I move the stand they don't fall out and yes,no coffee can that I have to search for everytime I want to use the stand.I thought of a E-clip,but thought it would break off once tightened against the engine.

For the to long problem I put a 1/2 or 7/16 nut under the head of the bolt. That spaces it just right... As for keeping the bolts from falling out when not in use A 3/8 nut takes care of that. If you don't have a Nut & bolt bins just use a wire tie to hold the nuts to the stand while in use.

Gary, I have a container that holds nothing but engine stand bolts. I have a variety as I have built many different brands of engines. Your average grade five bolt will work fine. Their tensile strength is way beyond what any engine weighs. Not exactly the answer you were looking for but the variety of sizes gives you plenty to choose from.

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Originally Posted by cffisher

For the to long problem I put a 1/2 or 7/16 nut under the head of the bolt. That spaces it just right... As for keeping the bolts from falling out when not in use A 3/8 nut takes care of that. If you don't have a Nut & bolt bins just use a wire tie to hold the nuts to the stand while in use.

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Yep - sounds like Charlie and I went to the same "school"

I got tired of having to shim up whatever bolts I could find laying around the shop, so I measured our engine stands to see what bolts would fit and leave about an inch protruding, and bought grade 8 bolts that fit exactly, with only one washer under the head. I then put 4 at a time in plastic sandwich bags and labeled them "Ford" (7/16 inch) and Chevy (3/8 inch) and keep them in my tool box.

The other problem I would have when shimming up too long ones is that the too long part sticking out impaired the ability of the engine stand to rotate one direction. The part sticking out would hit the upright support. With bolts that are just the right length they clear fine and you can spin the motor completely over in both directions.

Don

How about attaching a magnetic tool holder to the stand. That way the bolts would always be available.

Thats exactly what i have on mine.

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Originally Posted by RestoRod

How about attaching a magnetic tool holder to the stand. That way the bolts would always be available.

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The simplest solution of all - just get some nuts and put on the bolts after removing engine. When you use it again, just take the nuts off. That is what I do.

I took a couple hose clamps a piece of PVC pipe with two caps and put them in the pipe put the cap back on so they can't fall out due to moving it around.
Like the other guys said just shim the long bolts with a big nut and washers, that has always worked for me to.
Kurt

I got so tired of miss placing bolts, or using them for something else, that I bought an assortment of washers and grade 8 bolts in various lengths, and have a whole drawer in my tool box dedicated just for bolts, nuts and washers. It makes life easy, no more searching for cans or zip lock baggies(which work great for disassembly and reassembly), I just open the drawer remove whats needed. Then when it's time to put them away, back into the drawer they go. I also have a Ace Hardware 2 blocks from my house, in time of need!:LOL:

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Originally Posted by Smiliesafari

Gary, I have a container that holds nothing but engine stand bolts. I have a variety as I have built many different brands of engines. Your average grade five bolt will work fine. Their tensile strength is way beyond what any engine weighs. Not exactly the answer you were looking for but the variety of sizes gives you plenty to choose from.

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+1

your engine thread holes grade 8 also? nope

but you have to consider that there is
a leverage force beyond that of just the engine weight also

I always found that getting a bolt about 1 half inch longer than the bell housing blt worked just fine,I use a grade 8 bolt for the strength. If you are using several different types of bolts then just get a 4x4 and drill holes in it and mark them with something to identify them.

as long as the bolt goes in the same depth as it is wide it will have max holding strength .. hence a 7/16 bolt need only engage 7/16 deep

I drilled holes in the legs of my stand... the bolts happily await being pulled from their "holster" for use.

Tack weld 4 nuts on the upright and thread the bolts into them when not in use.
Mine have been the for 15 years.
Never loose them