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I have a stock chevy steering pump. working a 1977 f-100 box. between the pump and the box i have this valve.My idea is to get rid of this thing and ...........i understand one can cut or stretch the spring in the chevy pump,and knock the pressure down so i'm able to use the ford box.If you have anything on this or know someone i can go to please help me out, as i am driving this thing all the time,I can't keep it in my lane very easy.
If i am way off base tell me that too. bob s
Check Borgeson's web site. I used their valve to reduce the flow on a chevy pump. I also added 4 washers to the pressure valve, which reduced the pressure from 1100 to 800 psi.
My steering(T-bird R&P) on a Must II IFS is much improved. This eliminated the twichy steering.......Don
twichey........is this when you are constantly correcting the the steering wheel?. to stay in your lane. driving the car all the time ...while driving the car. Don!!!! i think you may have hit on my problem.The "equalizer valve" doesn't,do anything to help the pressure.It just regulates the flow.ataherefore the chevy box is justsending more or less fluid, when you adjust the knob on the black box .right? I have sent for a new borgesons catalog.
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...lizervalve.jpg
Is your valve like this in any way?????????
No it's not Bob. If you remove the flow reduction valve from the Chevy pump (the valve where the high pressure hose att) you will see a removeable pressure regulator behind it that screws out. This valve had one washer on it (behind the spring)when I removed it. I added 3 more washers to it.......this reduced the operating pressure & eliminated the constant correction of the steering.
Good luck...Don
If your steering is twitchie---check your caster
Yes i moved it yesterday so the pin inclination .....gave me the bottom of the pin tilted out ahead, of the top.........[viewed from the side to the max]. it now doesn't wander but it is Twitchy. which inclines me to believe the chevy pump is just to high pressure,what do you think?/
the twitchieness is probably coming from a binding king pin or ball joint
Its not from your powersteering
Also---where does your king pin line pass thru the tire/ground patch (scrub radius)
How about posting some pics of your suspension/steering layout??
It is pretty cheap to change the Chevy pump pressure to see if it corrects the problem.
The chevy pumps of the 70's-80's put out around 1200 psi. The Ford pumps around 800 psi,thus you will fill the difference.
It is a common proplem with the Must II IFS to have too much boost & get
oversteer.
Do a search on Chevy pump pressure problem......
It is also important that you have the correct caster as mentioned above.
This is good info. I was about to buy a Heidt's regulator instead of the Borgeson's regulator kit. Does anyone have some pics on the adding washers to the pump regulator. It seems to be backward to me, doesn't adding washers increase the pressure? Please explain so I get my thinking correct.
Thanks
TC
I am taking the wheels off again this week .maybe monday after i get the darn water softener.gets rebuilt.I'll get a pic or two.I am thinking though that, inclnation has just got to be there,1/4" or so. it isn't to important how much as it is, to how much the lower end of the pin,is rearward of the top of the pin.I don't have the wander much now just the twitchyiness. man i hope i spelled that right.
In certain applications, Ford used the GM Saginaw pump from the factory. Mostly in E series vans. You could use a pressure valve from one of them. But to my knowledge they are the same as standard GM valves. I have installed several GM engines in Ford trucks using a stock GM pump with no problems. I believe your problem lies elsewhere.
The king pin has to lean back at the top for proper alignment. If not, the steering will be twitchy.Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo
I have done both , added washers behind the spring and am using the Hiedts Valve pictured, it redirects flow into the return line reducing the overall presure at the rack, Both helped. I had to adjust the vave to the point that there was minimal assist at slow speeds.
Could be i don't have the heidts valve adjusted right??????????
If its hydraulic problem you would be over control----twitchieness is caused by some basic set up errors or a binding king pin or thrust bearing ---you do have your thrust bearing on the spindle/king pin where the weight is carried by the bearing???
And again---wheel offset/scrub radius