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anyone have a ruff idea on what it cost to have a 40's model ford sandblasted? I got a quote from a guy for 1075 but thought it seemed high? maybe thats around the right price. just thought i would ask before i proceed or look for another person to do it
that`s about how much money i earn every two weeks !!! .. will it take two weeks to sandblast your car .. i`d say keep looking ..
on average it runs 100 per hour. and it takes longer if done right. 40 ford inside and out is around 1000 -1500 depending on how bad it is. it has to be clean also.
I might try going to some local car shows and talking with some of the fellows there to ask for a recommendation. Be careful. If the panels are blasted improperly, heat build-up can warp them.
even at 1075 it probably would be a bargain versus sanding it off by hand .. plus it will blow rust away
well the guy is coming from a place thats an hour away so itss 100 bucks for that and 975 to do the car. the car is right rusty in some spots. but there are no holes or bad pitting.
You should ask him if he does walnut shells instead of sand or soda blasting. Like techinspec. said..sandblasing sheet metal will warp it with the heat build.
it's not the heat that warps. the aggressive media stretches the metal. first , do not let him near it with sand . almost as bad as soda. find someone who uses a safe media instead. olivine or starblast work well as does crushed glass.
soda blast is safest - it won't get rust off but will give you clean metal. The biggest is the skill of the operator. If he is under 40 i'd pass. The cost is based on how long it takes, it'll cost less to just blast the hell out of it and warp metal than if he is careful and takes the extra time to do a careful job. At 1K approx, it sounds cheap to me, i have frames done regularly and they cost about $400 each and that is done with black diamond, no finesse required.
If he comes to you be sure to ask about the mess that'll be left behind - remember, when they blast that stuff whatever comes out the nozzle is a one-way trip. It isn't gathered up and reused.
Just be real careful with soda blast as there are some primers and paints, not all, that will NOT adhere to that blasted surface. Soda (microscopic size) particles embed themselves into the surface and can and do cause a paint failures Then you will have a real expensive and time consuming mess to remove that bad stuff back to bare metal to start over. Do your home work with the paint supplier before doing any soda blast!!!
soda leaves no anchor pattern so you must sand it for adhesion. then there is the risk of adhesion failure .
acrylic will leave no anchor pattern . i use it for vettes.
starblast is the best i have used. it is very fine and gets all the cracks and pits. leaves a good anchor pattern .
Like some of the others, I am not a fan of sandblasting car bodies. The wrong media and operator can cause more harm than good. When I worked at the body shop we took a VW bug to be blasted and it came back with huge holes in it. Years ago I had a 68 Mustang blasted and for years sand was coming out of evey nook and cranny. I would drive down the road and sand would be blowing out of hidden places. It also starts rerusting IMMEDIATELY due to moisture in the air, so you have to prime it very quickly.
We are considering having Don's 46 dipped and E coated. You might look into places like Redi Strip or similar. Not sure how the cost is, but the body comes back in very nice shape to start working on, and the E coating gets down into every crevise.
BTW, the $ 1,000 isn't bad for blasting. We paid $ 100 per foot to have boat bottoms blasted to remove old bottom paint at the marina.
Don
sand will actually promote rust.
i wash with dawn soap after blasting then epoxy. you will never blow it all out.
Don could you explain a little more about the dipping and ecoating? not sure if there is any place around me that does that
It is a chemical process where they phyically lift the body, submerge it into a caustic solution, leave it there for a period of time (sometimes overnight) and when it comes out you have bare metal. The paint, undercoating, and rust will all be gone. It gives you a totally clean substrate to start out with.
The E coating is essentially a special coating that is applied by immersing the body (or whatever parts you want done) into a bath and current is applied to the parts and the solution. The coating is drawn to the metal and will seek out every little space and cover it. I think some new cars are coming off the assembly line done this way.
As for who does it, they are becoming harder to find due to the EPA and hazardous chemicals that are used. Look in your local phone book or on line to see if there is someone in your area doing it. One company is Redi Strip, but others are also doing it.
Don
We sent a '58 buick for dipping and coating. It looked like a fairly rustfree body, when it came back and put up on the rotiseree the floor pan looked like a planitarium and has to be replaced. I don't know if it was left in there too long or we did a poor evaluation of the metal. Just something to remember in your calculations. Whatever method you chose, i'd want to be there when they did it.
No, what probably happened was that you just had more rust than you thought and when the process removed all of it the holes showed up. I've read articles on having one dipped, and they said sometimes customers are surprised to see that the car they thought was so rustfree really wasn't when they go back to pick it up. Sometimes rusty metal looks nice and thick but the good metal can be pretty thin once it is removed.
Don
Touchy subject..Everyone has their favorite method of paint removal..I had a truck cab sand blasted once..never again..While the guy was experienced,he made such a mess,did a bit of damage[warping],but in the three years I owned that truck,I was constantly cleaning sand out of it..Depending on the article,whether it be double skinned or not,I would get it dipped,or garnet blasted,or,as I did to a friends 69 Mustang recently,,got a good quality chemical paint stripper,and stripped the paint back with that..It took me about a week,part time..Washed it off with a wax and grease remover,then sanded the body smooth,and epoxy primed it..
As far as sandblasting goes it does not cause heat, think of all the air tools you use and the pressure drop as the air escapes, it get cold, similar to the way an air conditioner works. the reason the warpage happens when sandblasting is due to displacement , think of a hammer and dolly, the tiny sand particles push the metal around and if the gun is left to long in one spot it will displace the metal causing warpage and eventually holes. If you set your pressure low, keep moving the gun and always keep an angle on it, it should be fine, the one's that end up botched are guys used to doing frames and heavy metal then think they can use the same technique on sheetmetal. for a $1000 you could purchase an 80 gal compressor and a pressure pot sandblaster, or build your own. then charge $1000 to do someone else s. :)