Question for the paint Pro's!!!

I am just about ready to paint my 70 ford pick up.
I know that I am gonna use base coat clear coat.
I wanna use Daytona Metallic Blue then I am gonna put old school type flames on the front fender and hood. The flames will be done in a pure white and out lined in a nice Baby Blue. Now I wanna lay all the colors down before clear coating over the whole thing at once. Now I don't need the best paint and clear coat but I don't want the clear coat to start peeling after the first year. In other words I want a good paint that will last more then a year at a good price. I don't mind paying a little more for a better product as long as it is not to crazy. What would you reccomend for paint and a clear coat. Then I have to see who has the best price on it, wheather it's on line or a local auto supplie dealer. Thanks for any help.
Kurt

Automotive paint aint cheap. So with that said go with a good brand name, and stick with that brand for the total project. You will have a better outcome if you do. For your flames and custom work use the same brand of paint just buy a smaller quantity of it.
The only snag your gonna have is the striping around the flames. If you hand stripe them. Use House of Kolor striping paint. Then you can clear over the whole project and not have any problems.
Creep

I belive it's Edd Hubbs from full blown kustoms that use's a inner clear coat that you can use before doing any tapeing off on colors this way your not going to damage the paint.
Then you can paint right on top of that, then shoot the whole thing with the clear.
That way I can tape my stripes in between the metalic blue and the white flames.
Yes I know the paint is not cheap, and I know I am probably looking at over $500
for the base and clear. Just want to get the best price for my buck if you know what I mean. Thats why I am asking you guys what to use, because I don't do this every day.
Thanks Kurt

Well got me a much needed 2 3/4 X 17 1/2 straite air inline sander.
Also got a new respirater,mixing cup with stand and some other nick nack stuff.
And I found my butcher paper to do my flames with, for only 5 bucks.
Finish masters wanted 35 bucks for a small roll.
So everything is starting to come together now anyway.
Though I still need some insight on what paint would work best and where is the best place to buy it price wise. Kurt

Paint is kind of a personal preference deal, Kurt.. I use PPG products cuz the guy that handles it here in town is really sharp on all the products and their application, also the fact that I've used PPG for years and feel "comfortable" shooting it. Awhile back when I was doing the shop thing, he had DuPont... Compared to PPG it takes way to many different products to get the same results (aka more $$$$$). I didn't like it, probably because I wasn't familiar with the product line more then anything. Sherwin-Williams, Martin Seynour, and a bunch of other brands also have their followers, and most will tell you what they use is the best--which is probably true because it works the best for them. House of Kolor has a really first rate product, but IMO it's a bit overrated and a bunch overpriced... All that said, I'd suggest PPG...it's the best because that's what I use!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL: Gotta believe in your materials!!!!

Thanks Dave; Ya I think the Finish Masters up the street sells DuPont,but after they tried to charge me $35 bucks for a very small roll of butcher paper, I ain't rushing in there to buy anything. So it looks like PPG, and I'll start looking for places on line that sell it.
I've only got two bad spots on the whole truck that I have seen so there is not alot of body work to do. The One spot is right on the body line towards the front passanger side of the bed. Looks like a real easy fix! The other one is the one that drives me crazy.
Looks like someone dropped something on the passanger side of the hood just a little off center, so the hood line and just a little over from that is a low spot.
That also looks to be a easy fix! The part that drives me crazy is every time you get in the truck and look out over the hood, it smacks you right in the face.
I can't stand to have dings or dents in one of my hoods, Just one of my pet pev's I guess. I know don't look at it, but it's hard not to when your driving down the road.
HE! HE! HE! Well with that said, thanks again for you help Dave. Kurt

I am also a big fan of PPG. I really like their clear topcoats. I know they can be a bit pricy also. But it is VERY VERY top notch stuff. Base coat clear coat is IMO very forgiving. You
can do a light clear coat over your base. Do your custom work. Then come back in with
your top coat clear.
Creep

Thanks Creeps;After I get the flames done, I am gonna try my hand at
painting chrome along where the old chrome was removed.
Of course I'll make up some stencils that will look like the original molding.
Then I'll lay down some grey then some blue then some white then tinting with some black then some more white to high light it and give it that shinny look, then the clear.
I'll be using my air brushes to be doing that stuff, and will be using my touch up gun for the flames, since there will be alot more area to cover. I have been praticing on my old hood though not with the Quality of paint that I will be using on my truck.
Thanks again for the tips on the paint, I didn't have time to call around today But I'll be
checking on the paints monday.Had to take my 10 baby Boxers to get thier health certificates today about 3 hours away from home. Now I will be able to get them sold for my paint money. HE! HE! HE! Plus some other goodies.
Kurt

Ok, you guys that use PPG paints, here is a question.
What do I need to buy with the base coat and the clear coat.
I was looking thru some of their paints on line and I didn't see any
metalic's but I did see metal flakes to add in. Should I use the small
or the big metal flake? I know differant Paints use differant stuff with
their base coats like reducers or hardners and some times both. What
do I need with PPG paint and what should I use with the clear a medium
hardner? Are all their clear coats the same if not, which one should I use.
next question is How much paint should I buy to do a 1970 Ford pick up.
A little extra will be good, Just in case I have to touch anything up some.
Some body guy told me to leave the primmer on the truck a week before
I paint it! Is this true?
Thanks Kurt

I would recommend you just go to a local automotive paint supply. And have them show
you a color chart. Just from buying from an on line store I guarantee you won't get
the same color you think your getting. Go right to your supplier. He will set you up
with all the right stuff. The clear I like is VC5200 you can go to Kustom Shops site
and see a lot of products to choose from.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksumb.aspx
Your paint supplier will have all the answers you need.
creep

I suggest that you visit your local independent paint dealer and see if he has switched over to the Matrix Paint System, or check Smith Sandpaper Shop in Tampa http://www.matrixsystem.com/jobber.php I have been told that PPG does a lot of incentives with body shops and dealers, like installing a free $10K paint booth in return for selling them paint for five years, etc. Everyone buying PPG paint is paying for that spray booth with dollars added to the price of each gallon of product. Matrix has identical color names and formulation to PPG, but it is an independent name that does not carry the load of PPG advertising and incentive programs. My local guy was a PPG dealer for many, many years but switched to Matrix several years back in order be able to offer better pricing to everyone. I am only passing on what I have been told by my supplier, but I trust his knowledge on paint and paint products.

Thanks Rodger: I'll check them out.
Kurt

i tried the matrix system on 2 cars. complete system down to epoxy. used their euro clear. i found it to be very brittle , chips very easy.
i use all spi products now and prospray for my colors. the spi stays flexible which prevents chipping. big plus to me. the prospray is an excellent base and about 40% less than ppg. the spi universal clear is also priced very good. cant beat it.

i shot ppg day in day out in 3 shops for many years i work at one full time and two part time that was over 7 years ago so i can not tell you what clear to use some they still make other they do not . but when i was painting i was using dau75 .dau80 . 2020. and nct all had there place the last time ppg re work there DU hardners so they dryed faster for the 2020. i like the 2042 stratoclear was the last clear i used for a job .at the time i was using dau80 they are not making it any more. at the full time shop there was alot of off name stuff that work with or like ppg clears/ hardner / thinners for base. my boss tried some ok some junk .they would stop by and say it was just like ppg. nope not many work good .we started to shoot matrix clear i never cared much for it .the way it spayed out or wheeled out it been some time so all the clears and numbers are fading way in my brain.but i still remember the stuff that did not work as good and all the added time it costed me trying some of stuff that was just like ppg or would work as a harder or a clear. try to find a paint system and stick with it if you can away like ppg clear they had a clear for every day of the week there base was good . but never like there etch primer

Thanks Pat; I would rather pay a little more for the paint and not worry if it will work or hold up in the sun. If this comes out good I'll have a 72 Vette and a 65 Ranchero to Paint. If everyone is tying to compare it to PPG, then PPG must be the paint to use.
Kurt

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by vara4

Thanks Pat; I would rather pay a little more for the paint and not worry if it will work or hold up in the sun. If this comes out good I'll have a 72 Vette and a 65 Ranchero to Paint. If everyone is tying to compare it to PPG, then PPG must be the paint to use.
Kurt

---

if you ever need help but i been out of it for some time you can call me .i would love to get back in to it but the body just is not willing :3dSMILE

I know that feeling about the body not willing, Pat.
I bought me one of thos heavy duty seat things from
Harbor Frieght I can roll around on it, got a dang tractor
seat on it to screw up or down and 4 big air tires.
I can't hardly walk on the old knees let alone bend
them for kneeling, so it helps.
Thanks again, Pat.
Kurt

Hey Creeps; You probably already know this stuff but I'll put the site on anyway.
Near the end of the video the guy talks about inner coat clear.
Kurt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1n64...aynext_from=PL