Shopping Pickups -- what to look for?

I’ve learned so much on this forum over the past week. I cannot thank you enough.

I’m interested in purchasing an early model pickup next spring (40-54). I’m looking much more towards rod than all original and want to be able to drive at highway speeds and feel safe with what’s around me. I want to get a solid cool running driver I can learn with and mod as I go.

This thread is my 101 of things to look for when combing for-sale ads. Helping me weigh two trucks with different options against one another.

My price range is 10k-15k if this helps at all?

So what should I be on the lookout for when looking around?
Can you guys help me list the items in order of safety importance? And give a 1-5 rating for installation difficulty if trying to do myself (novice).
Please feel free to add to my list here, this is just what I’ve noticed looking around hotrodline.com

PS
PB
Disc Brakes
Leaf Springs
Seatbelts
Power wipers
Posi rear end

Engines/Transmissions… I’ve seen a handful of 350's w/ 700R-4 transmissions. Should I be looking for something specific? What should catch my eye? How will a 3 speed feel as compared to a 4 when I shove my foot down?

Very much appreciated, thank you.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...O/7353828e.gif

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...SHOOT-2-NT.jpg

My - Ex 1939 GMC

Early pickups are very cool, I especially like circa 1954 Chevy and 56 Ford versions. I think those were some of the most stylish trucks ever built IMO.

Ok, what to look for. First of all it should be a truck that really turns you on. If I were laying out $ 15 large I would want to get something that I REALLY liked. Kinda like meeting a new girl.........the physical attraction has to be there first and then you start getting to what kind of person she really is inside. :D

Once you find one that you like the next thing to determine is how well built it is. There are some really badly built cars and trucks out there so you have to navigate that minefield and weed out the bad from the good. If you don't feel personally capable of making that determination, pay a professional to look it over before you plunk down the $. It will be money well spent. Being that this is not a normal car you might have to get someone familiar with hot rods because you will want to know things like if the front clip has been done properly as well as the rest of the modifications.

I could be wrong, but I think trucks of this era generally go for a little less than cars of the same period.........but that is only a guess. I also see that driver quality cars seem to be bringing a whole lot less right now than in other times, as on Barrett Jackson. There have been some super nice cars go on there for way less than the builder had invested it seems.

Final bit of advice, don't buy on impulse. Not that you want to drag your feet so you miss a really good one, but just really make sure it is a sound investment before you sign on the dotted line.

Good luck,

Don

WOW Don ........ I think you hit the nail on the head.

Remember: CASH IS KING ..... times are tuff & folks are hurting. I've seen some real deals out there.

Be selective on your purchase.

there are plenty out there that price you can get a good running safe truck that might need some cosmetics.
1st check the suspension and make sure it is done correctly. Mustang II, camaro or S-10 are the ones you will see mostly on GM trucks. S-10 is a fairly easy swap and the only issues would be tank placment and how the body mounts to the frame. Mustang II and Camaro ( IMO ) are much better but will take fab work. Check the welds for good penetraion and also check tire wear and see if they were put on straight.
Leafs or 4 link in the back is not a problem even original are fine as long as the bushings have been rebuilt. Again very simple process if need be.
Tank location....if at all possible get it out of the cab and between frame rails.
Check steering boxes for leaks and or biinding.
Check cooling and make sure it has enough.
Wiring should be checked as well.
Everything else would be cosmetic and just takes some time and a little skill.
Like I said there are plenty out there just wait and look

Thank you for the replies! I am definitely in over my head when it comes to looking at a truck to see if it's in good working order. I'll be paying someone (maybe one of you guys?) to take a look and give me a bill of health/safety come time to purchase. It's too bad the trucks seem to be strewn all across the country! I would like to stay with the New England area so I actually have a chance at driving to it!

Deuce, that '39 is sick! What did it look like when you first purchased it?

Don, that has been my feeling as well when browsing the for sale ads. Trucks seem to be a little bit less expensive than the sedans or coupes of the same period. As you mention, I would really like to avoid the bad builds and will do all the preparation I can to weed 'em out.

iceburgh, excellent information with the suspension. I need to find a resource so I can even begin to tell the difference between a Mustang II, Camaro, and S-10. Any pictures 'round these parts?

Have you guys heard of Rays Rods.net? Any opinion? Ray looks to have quite an inventory at times. I get a kick out of the wheelin' and dealin' tone of his write-ups. "Fly in and drive it home."

Wish you guys were closer, I think I would learn more in a day than... All we need is a truck to walk around and crawl through. :D

#1You love and it works. Was the work done by a knowledgeble and capable person?
#2 Gas under bed don't want to have 20 gallons go flying on you in an accident!
#3 Good brakes(easy enough to convert to disc) If it doesn't stop refer to #1 and #2!
#4 the body work is done and done well. This will cost you more than the whole build in both time and money! A good paint job that you like is worth what your willing to pay to start with. Avoid a rust bucket if at all posible, there will be rust on anything this old unless it's a glass body or has had a frame off resto job!
#5 Ignore all the above if you love it and have time, money and a place to do it yourself!
Post some shots once you get it. P.S. My thread might be helpfull it's a two year chronicle of my blunders to date!:LOL::D

P.S.
Buying a car or truck in pieces or missing parts, will cost alot more than buying one intact!
Just for grins go to LMC truck catalogue or MAC and browse their catalogues for what new seals and gasgets cost, then look at sheet metal! Yikes!:eek:
Like some of the guys have posted times are tough. For 15k, I've seen some 30-40k resto trucks sell lately. Much cheaper to go this route, and fine tune stuff to your likes and needs, than to start from scratch. A good road test with turns and braking should give you a great idea if the suspension stuff was done right!

Very much appreciated Stovens, excellent advice. I asked one guy about his truck over email, just educational questions, and over the coarse of the conversation the price dropped 10k! I need to check those lotto tickets. LOL

This is your Project Special K thread I see. I have a lot of catching up to do, starting to read now!

Mid 30's to Late 40's Pickup owners -

I'm finding myself being pulled toward this year range and away from the larger early 50's models... purely do to looks.

Help me get a better idea of power and highway driving speeds.

• What size engines do these earlier smaller models "at least" need to have a little get up and go?
  
• What differential gear ratio(s) is preferred? (I see some ads which mention a gear ratio change for better RPMs at highway speeds)
  

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gretsch

Mid 30's to Late 40's Pickup owners -

I'm finding myself being pulled toward this year range and away from the larger early 50's models... purely do to looks.

Help me get a better idea of power and highway driving speeds.

• What size engines do these earlier smaller models "at least" need to have a little get up and go?
  
• What differential gear ratio(s) is preferred? (I see some ads which mention a gear ratio change for better RPMs at highway speeds)
  

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Most of these early pickups aren't all that heavy, so it won't take a lot of motor to move 'em. You'll probably find the majority of the ones that have been modified will have a 350 chevy, although I wouldn't pass on one if it had a later model six cylinder motor (292 in a Chevy truck, 300 in a Ford). Some of the other Chevy V8's will do a fine job as well, 283, 305, 307, 327. A Ford truck with a late model 5.0 V8 swap using the EFI and overdrive automatic would be pleasureable to drive and get great mileage. There must have been at least a jillion of these motors produced over the last 20 years.

The gear will be determined by the cam, cruise rpm's and transmission. If you like a 3-pedal truck, I'd try to find one with a 5-speed or 6-speed that has an overdrive top gear. Same with automatic, 4-speed with overdrive in 4th. Using an overdrive trans, you might want a gear somewhere around the 3.70-3.80 range. With a 0.7:1 overdrive, a 3.80 rear gear would give a final drive ratio of 2.66:1, plenty tall for freeway driving. If you find a truck that uses a conventional 3-speed/4-speed manual or 3-speed auto with no overdrive, then a good compromise between power and mileage might be a 3.25-3.50 gear. Then again, with a good strong 350, you might be happy with a 3.00 gear. It's tough to juggle power and mileage with no overdrive gear in the trans.

Whatever you do, seek out some professional builders in your area and make an agreement with them to hire them so they can accompany you in looking at a truck. They will be worth their weight in gold in the end. I can't stress this too strongly. As was mentioned by Evolvo, attend some functions and talk to some of the truck guys. Ask them who they would hire to build a truck for them. After a while, you'll be able to find out who the guys are that do quality work. Then go hire that guy/guys to go with you to look the truck over thoroughly. I have seen some that look like show winners on the outside, but are junk as far as the drivetrain, steering, suspension and brakes. Matter of fact, I have seen so much junk that I wouldn't buy a completed truck no matter the cost. Of course, I, along with several members of this board, have enough knowledge to build one from scratch the way I want it, while you don't have that freedom.

I was just googling images and came across this '37 Chevy. What a dreamboat!!!!!
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...SgJg_8VXent0jQ

Tech, this is exactly the information I was hoping for! Thank you.

It's all a matter of helping me sort through for sale ads and having a better understanding of what I am reading/looking at - what to expect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Whatever you do, seek out some professional builders in your area and make an agreement with them to hire them so they can accompany you in looking at a truck. They will be worth their weight in gold in the end.

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This is definitely what I intend to do. I think I'll have to look for trucks around Tempe. :LOL:

Again, thank you.

Hey Guys - I'm digging up this thread from the past as I have found two trucks I am very interested in.

1st - A '48 International which is sitting on a complete '78 Nova chasis, has 350 crate/350 trans, 12 bolt rear tilt column. The seller is sending me a few pics and has said he can take pics of anything I want and get them to me. I am new to the truck/rod world. From the info above what would be your questions/photo requests - what should I investigate?

2nd - Is a '38 rodded Ford, 350 auto. I have very little info, have only seen pics. I understand parts are more difficult to come by being an earlier Ford however I have found a few webpages.

Bring on the comments and thank you gentlemen,
Gretsch

Update: After speaking with the seller several times, I'm going after the '38 - seeing her this coming weekend. Will take plenty of photos for you guys. We'll see how she starts up and rides in 20 degree weather.

I let the '48 Int go due to very very little history being known about the build nor what it had + some questionable leaks and what looked like a home repaired/modified rear axle/diff setup. Just didn't match my needs.

Well the visit to see the '38 channeled pickup was a disappointment. The truck just wasn't in the shape I had expected from seeing photos and speaking with the seller. It looks to have been sitting out for more than a few winters. Seller didn't have the truck ready to go, rear tire was flat, he said it hadn't been started since last September and said it wasn't registered so I wouldn't be able to drive it anyway. Ya' would have thought if one is trying to sell a car they would try and make it look good and go for a test drive, yeah? Guess I'm a nut for not wanting to purchase site unseen or test drive?

Also... More rust then I want to deal with underneath - quite bad IMO. Drum brakes all around - which wasn't a deal breaker. Original frontend - which I want something more updated, etc etc.

Most importantly, I didn't fit behind the wheel! The channeling chopped out much more leg room than I would have thought - head room was fine - but my knees were on either end of the steering wheel which was in my crotch. Ha. At 6'1" I don't consider myself a big guy but definitely was for this truck.

It was an awesome learning experience being this seller also had several other classics on the lot. Didn't drive any but climbed in a heck of a few.

The search continues...

Ebay sucks because I don't have the time to see a truck before an auction ends. Also seems like there are many flippers who bought and owned for a short period and don't know anything about the build they are selling - not good for abeginner like myself.

Think I need to forum shop more - much more comfortable purchasing from you guys anyway.

I'll be lurking....

Well ...... it's good to see that your covering your bases. Being a person FROM the boston are you'll most likely have to deal with the rust issue if the vehicle was driven - but you knew that.

Try craig's list & as check the HAMB. I know - the hamb can be a bitch but I found my 46 ford cpe. in the classified section. Car came out of Ks. & was rust free - really!! Just like the seller said. Not bad for 50+ yr. old car.

Also try www.mautofied.com & hemmings.

Good luck.

Ratty 46 aka/ REGS

Too bad about the 38, but there are others out there.

We used to have a 48 chevy 5 window...just a six cylinder but we put cragars on it anyway!

Keep searching the net and be ready to travel!!! We drove up to Friendsville, TN from Floriday to pick ours up!!

The internet does have some diamonds in the rough.:toocool:

http://www.oldride.com/classic_trucks/982193.html

Good luck!!

Thanks guys - wow, HAMB is unbelievable! Am speaking with a few guys there already. Appreciate the tip!

moving to a new thread...

Any interest in something a bit newer, Gretsch??? I'm getting close to done on my '71 Ford, brand new everything, pics in my gallery if you want to take a look....

Thanks Dave - yeah, I'm hung up on the 40's and very early 50's.

Usually some nice stuff on Racing Junk, you been checking there????

I feel like a kid in a candy store. Nice site. Thanks!

Hey Gretsch,

Glad I was able to direct you .....

REGS

REGs man, you improved my search power 10-fold with those sites - I have a few irons in the fire. Will post updates.