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Hey guys, I am looking into learning about AN fittings. My first question is-Where do the sizes come from? 6AN, 8AN etc. Are they metric sizes? Or are they on a whole different size system? Next, are they All aluminium? And, how do they mate to the hose? Can you cut steel braid hose to length and put on the AN fittings yourself?
Pretty good explanation here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_threadQuote:
Originally Posted by josh bichard
And yes, you can make up your own hoses.
Bob
Hi Josh,
I haven't gone to an yet myself so I can't answer the 1st 3 questions but yes, you can cut the hose and do it yourself. It does have to be done properly however and there are several sources for doing this. Google "AN hose assembly" and see what you get. I believe Street Rodder did a article on this awhile back and may have the procedure on their web site.
Jack.
AN sizes are really quite simple, the dash number, ie -4, -6, -8 etc refers to the hose size in sixteenths of an inch.... A -8 hose is 8/16", or 1/2". A -4 is 4/16", or 1/4". When you buy the components, it's best to keep them all the same brand and the same product line to ensure compatibility....
Not hard to make up your own, do some studying on the various manufacturer's sites and there are some very good instructions....
“Army-Navy” (AN) sizes were established by the aircraft industry to meet military standardization for aircraft. The numbers are equal to the outside diameter (OD) of the tubing in sixteenths. Since tubing and hoses can have different wall thicknesses, the size number does not necessarily tell you how large the inside diameter will be.
Oooh - great minds think alike, but Evo's fingers are faster!
Lotta good info. Thanks guys.
One more question. I just ordered a fuel line from russel for my holley 4150 that says it has a 6AN inlet. My mechanical fuel pump has 1/4 inch npt inlet. So would I need a hose with a 6an on one end and a 4an on the other? If so, what size hose should I use?
You'll need an adapter to go from 1/4" npt to -6, then a -6 hose to the carb, and whatever adapter's are correct for your carb to the -6 hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh bichard
NPT is an entirely different thread from AN fittings... NPT is a pipe thread...
Cool, thats a start.
Hey Dave, did your 82 come with a turbo 350 from the factory?
Not sure, think it had a 700R4....need some parts off it? Got some of the original pieces laying around, Lord knows I don't use much stock stuff!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by josh bichard
Don't need any parts that I know of. Just wondered because I was going to bolt put my torque arm in saturday and was surprised with something. The mount that on the tranny that the arm sits in was opposite of my torque arm. I wondered if the 82s torque arm was different and maybe that was what rearend is in my car
Guess I didn't pay a whole lot of attention to that stuff when I took mine apart.... Didn't like it so it all wound up in the scrap trailer..... Mine's a bit different now, nobody want to sit in the back seat of a 'maro anyway.....:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by josh bichard
It really is amazing how often that happens - several of us answering at the same time and coming to the same end as far as the advice/conclusion. Underscores that there's a lot of knowledge on this site!
Regards All,
Glenn
p.s. - I was a teacher's aide in a typing class in the 10th grade!! Old Remington electric monsters! How far we've come, eh?
Agreed???? Man, we better not let that ever happen again!!!!!:eek::eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Evolvo
While we are on the subject of An fittings, whats the best way to cut the stainless lines. I have the fitting ready to go, but need to cut the hoses to length!
Electric??? Wow, you young whippersnappers had all the toys!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsexton
the best way i have found is to use a air cut off with a thin cut off wheel one thing i will add i did not see anyone one add this ?? is why i do not care much for the braided ss hose it makes a great hack saw so if you lay the hose up on any thing with out clamps it well cut in things like valve covers ect. my next job dry sump pan engine. i save up my milk money for starlite hoseQuote:
Originally Posted by stovens
The summit cutter seems the way to go. Eventually I will use all braided lines for bling value( I know pure stupidity) but it's just one of those things like a little billet in the right place, makes the job look a little neater!:LOL::LOL::):rolleyes::whacked:**):eek::o
after the smell of burning rubber**) i washer with dawn dish soap and blow dry dawn works good on oily ducks to.if you need to wash any i have used dawn soap as well to put the fitting s on the hose as well works good .just do not wash the new lines with the dishes OH you have not made very many lines till you jamed some of the SS wire under your finger nailsQuote:
Originally Posted by Evolvo
cut off wheel will not go dull**)Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
I think I found this link on here long ago.
http://www.anplumbing.com/tech.html
bunch of video clips on how to cut hose and assemble hoses. Was very helpful when I was redoing my fuel system. Using a chisel and bfh to cut hose is fast and clean cut but the hose cutters are easier but worse cut unless you tape it first
-Chris
i used the braided line for many years and have done many fuel line trans oil lines .but i can say that a chisel will do a piss poor job i have use a band saw a hack saw they all suck .the summit cutter may work but they could get dull then they will be like then old tin snipps that turn side ways out of your hand and will not cut any thing . i used the cut off wheel yes it smell yes you need to clean the line out but will cut clean alot of the time i never tape the hose but i done alot of lines .i do not like seeing the tape it some times moves then you see it .i use soft jaws and after the cutter i start by hand turn the cutter down with a clean 6 point deep well socket if strait end
you would be surprised... :toocool:Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
Roger on the s/steel braid under the fingernails, Pat. I rarely swear - but one of those strands poking about 1/4" under the nail is enough to make a preacher say things that even God should never hear!
Lot o' pain and takes for ever to heal..
I do like these cutters for the s/steel braid lines. They're fine for my level and are easy to touch up with a sharpening stone. Cost about $35.
Regards All,
Glenn
no i would not i pickup a chunk of 8 an that the bone head used on the end of the line could not get a fitting on it beat flat and wire all over . cut off is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better been building line s for over 20 years but i know what works your not selling me no any other way i know that works:LOL: the best all the timeQuote:
Originally Posted by skids72
hey i have a set of them i pick them up from lawson used them one time it is hard on them i did it one or two times went back to the cutoff after looking at the cutting part :( i not sure but i think i never got thru the an 8 russell line .there is a lower grade line they would cut but i think the earls and russell has a very thick jacket of wire .the very old aeroquip and the off brand line yes you can cut that stuff with just about any thingQuote:
Originally Posted by glennsexton
And you're humble too, Pat!! :3dSMILE::3dSMILE:
But I guess when I can say I've built a tenth as many motors as you have...:LOL:
well hey.. cut offs every one has ? it works good .i talk to my land lord that build planes boat and road race cars about AN line all the time as well as other things .it just some thing i like to talk about with him :whacked:.i will back out keep my mouth shut . if you want to spend money on tools you do not need good luck. been there done it. cut off wheels are 5.00 each? do not go dull . good luck :D i do not know how many engine you have built glenn ? i do not know how many i built but i do know i bore more then i build in a year so may be you built more ?Quote:
Originally Posted by glennsexton
I don't have a cutoff... Speed shop other side of town uses chop saw with smooth blade... Tried dremel once and never again... Wide sharp chisel and bfh on a block of aluminum never had a stray wire like with the cutters. I haven't done for 20 years just a dozen or so cuts -8 Earls all good no problem putting ends on... Some people can screw anything up :whacked:
learned from the Earl's guy... Watch the vid:
http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html
not saying it's the best way just what worked well for me
Skids nice video. I would have never thought that would work, but jeeze it goes thru like butter, no muss no fuzz. I've got chisels and hammers, just need an aluminum block!
I love what the guy in the video says, "most people don't believe this works, until they see it!"
Roger on the video - I have a nice block of aluminum and am going to try this route. Seeing is believing! I've used the heavy bypass cutters from Klein tools for years - but this looks like a real improvement! Thanks for posting the video..
I think it was -6 in the vid... -8 takes a little more oomph. Picked up ~6" length of 2x6 at the scrap yard when I got the sheet for my air pan I think about $4
-Chris
Dave, Do you recall what the length of the triangular bars are?
Thanks, Ed