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Replaced the stock stamped rockers with a set of Proform self aligning rollers. I've adjusted the valves three times and I still can't get it to run right. Acts like it has a dead cylinder. Checked the plugs and no fouling or wet plugs. Looked on a couple of web sites and found the push rods(stockZZ4) may be the problem. Any thoughts?
I put COMP rockers on mine and it worked fine. Did you use the "IOEC" method to adjust? I've seen the info on 'stock' pushrods too. As long as you're not changing springs, stock should be fine. If you up the spring pressures, probably a good idea to change pushrods. I currently have TrickFlow heads/cam package in mine and still using stock pushrods. Runs fine. (This combo was written up in HotRod mag a few months ago and they also used stock pushrods)
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...=Custom&ID=637
I thought it was EOIC. Anybody????
Remove all spark plugs to make the motor easy to turn over. Put a socket and long bar on the harmonic damper retainer bolt. Twist the crank clockwise until both valves are closed on #1 and TDC is indicated at the damper. Loosen both rocker nuts. Hold one of the rockers down against the valve stem tip with one hand and jiggle the pushrod up and down. Slowly tighten the rocker nut until all play is eliminated. Turn the nut another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Now do the other rocker on #1 the same way. If you have been twisting the pushrod to determine all slack has been removed, then you have been adjusting the valves too tight. ONLY JIGGLE THE PUSHROD UP AND DOWN WITH THE THUMB AND FOREFINGER WHILE HOLDING THE TIP OF THE ROCKER ARM DOWN AGAINST THE VALVE STEM TIP.
Once you have #1 done, twist the crank 1/4 turn (90 degrees) clockwise so that #8 is at TDC and both valves are closed and repeat the above procedure. Now, following the firing order through (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2) and turning the crank 1/4 turn at a time between adjustments, finish the adjustments on the remaining cylinders. You will end up turning the crank through two complete revolutions to do this procedure, 1/4 turn at a time. When you have done all the cylinders, you should end up at TDC #2 with the damper 1/4 turn from TDC #1. It helps to have a degree tape on the damper to do this, but if you are careful in your 1/4 turns, you can make it work.
Thanks Mr Techinspector1. Just for grins I checked the compression on each cyl and found no compression on 1 and 8. Explains a lot!! First time I adjusted the valves I used the twisting of the pushrod method. Same on the second try. On the third try I used the jiggle the pushrod up and down technique but didn't hold the rocker against the valve stem tip. Live and learn man, live and learn!!
Tom
Yep, you are correct................. I always think of it backwards but follow the link I posted above... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by tbear
Thanks guys. I went back and readjusted the two cyls that were too tight and she runs like a top.