Brakes!!

[smashingchuck]

Alright guys, I know I don't post here much, but every time I do I get the right answer, so here it goes... I'll try to make this as short and sweet as possible.

I'm (re)building my 1978 chevy short wide pickup, which is heavily modified. I have built an under dash Master cylinder for it, and because of space, have had to remove the vacuum booster. For the master cylinder, I went to the Auto Parts store and ordered a Master Cylinder for the same era truck with manual brakes, Which gives me a master cylinder that has a stepped bore (different bore for the front than the back). I am now at the point where I am ready to start plumbing the rest of the braking system, and I'm thinking that there might be something better out there as far as my master cylinder selection. So basically, I'm wanting to know what I should use for a master cylinder and prop valve to give me the best brakes possible. I have the factory disk/drum set up on all four corners for now, but might upgrade those later down the line.

here's a couple snapshots, since I know someone will probably ask.

[cffisher]

Three Rivers MI You live in my back yard?? Anyway they make and I'm not sure just who but probably some hot rod manufacturer a master cylinder with the boster at a 90 degree angle from the master cyl. if your looking for room that may help. They also make them to be mounted under the floor with a booster. Good luck
Charlie

[Dave Severson]

Great looking chassis work by the way!!!

I'd guess the master cylinder you have installed now is a 3/4" and 7/8" stepped cylinder??? Should be a good size... I think I'd get the system bled, then check front and rear brake pressure with a gauge and see where it's at. Putting a proportioning valve in the rear line is an excellent way to fine tune the rear pressure and establish a good ration of front to rear pressure..... Sounds to me like you are on the right track for a good brake system.....

[smashingchuck]

Charlie - I don't know about back yard, but definitely just up the river!

I've already got the mechanism built, welded to the firewall, and the firewall is painted. I used The stock Brake pedal/clutch pedal/ steering column hanger and modified it... so I really don't need a kit of any kind. Plus the under floor kits don't allow room for exhaust on the driver side once the truck is on the ground.

here's a pic of the M/C mounted in the dash...



and here is another guys truck with the under floor mount from Scotts Hot Rods... again, no room to run an exhaust pipe when the frame is on the ground.

[smashingchuck]

Since you have a lot of room under the truck I think you should check with some of the specialty brake manufacturers to find a REMOTE vacuum booster. I installed one of these on an older chevy PU for a customer. Can't remember the brand but it worked well.

I've seen these, and considered them as a last resort if I didn't like the manual brakes. There really isn't anyplace to put it... I really think I should be able to build a Safe, reliable system without the booster. maybe I'm crazy.

Dave-
I can't remember the size of the bores, but I'll try to look on the website and figure it out.

[cffisher]

If your that far along I'd go with what you got and check it as Dave said. Refabing is a headach especialy after its all painted. Oh yes and I do live right on the St JOE about 2 mi. west of town

[smashingchuck]

Well I can easily unbolt the M/C and swap in a new one... don't have to refabricate anything to do that.... other wise to add a booster... yeah I have to start over. I guess I'll just try it for now... see what happens.

Where is a good source for stainless steel lines? I don't want a kit of prebent, just the lines and fittings; I can flare them myself. I just got done doing all the air lines in 3/8" stainless and would like to do the brakes the same way.

[Bob Parmenter]

Another option is related to your picture of the under floor setup. Instead of mounting the booster/mc right aft of the pedal with the typical 3-4" rod, mount the booster/mc further back with an extended rod, thus freeing up room around the trans. Here's a pic without a booster, but should give you a visual.

[ted dehaan]

you can use a midland ross remote booster and mount it anywhere even under the dash just need a vacuum hose and break line in and out I have an n.o.s. unit that's been sitting on the shelf for about 10 yrs for 100 bucks if interested ....ted

[smashingchuck]

you can use a midland ross remote booster and mount it anywhere even under the dash just need a vacuum hose and break line in and out I have an n.o.s. unit that's been sitting on the shelf for about 10 yrs for 100 bucks if interested ....ted

very interested in this option.... does it require the use of another master cylinder, or utilize the one I have?

*edit*
so what I gather from the net is the MIdland ross is an integrated booster/master cylinder? Whats the bore?

[RATRODKING]

smashingchuck, i just want to say you got a heck of a cool truck. looks great.
leonard

[firebird77clone]

I ordered some stainless lines from Summit, and had to return them. The lines are so hard, my flairing tool couldn't get a bite on it. When I would try to make the flare, the tubing would just slip out of the clamp.

Ended up going with a product called poly armour from discount auto. It has an anti corrosion coating and bends and flares very well.

[smashingchuck]

Thanks for the compliments...

Flaring stainless tubing requires more expensive flaring tools specifically built for stainless. I've already done the air lines in 3/8, so the little brake lines shouldn't be a problem.