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Thread: Wiring my Car
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sean - Since you have read most of my trials and some of my pain, I really have few comments:

    Solder and shrink wrap are best - and there are two kinds (or more!) of shrink wrap. The shiny stuff isn't as good as the flat finished. The flat I believe is marine and has some adhesive and will shrink tighter.

    Grounds are important even with a steel car which I believe yours is as well. You need a ground from an engine/transmission bolt to the chassis and a second, also from the engine to the body. I used some flat braided ground straps that I bought from AAW at an NSRA meet. I also have more grounds for various pieces on the body and behind the dash. These are mostly wire brushed to clean steel areas that had a .25 brass bolt, a couple of SS star washers and some dielectric grease. Any grounds, best to use star washers.

    Tie wraps on wires from the module to the rear of the car and if under the carpet will not easily fit in convoluted tubing - and will upset your upholsterer. I originally tie wrapped mine, but ended up removing those under the carpet area and wrapped with orange 3M Scotch #35 electrical tape. Not necessarily the best way if a repair, a change or more wiring is needed but my upholsterer is happier, tho not much.

    Dash - by your photos it appears that you haven't done your dash yet - and with the pre terminated EZ wire assembly, you might want to not get too far before you put it together. If you still can, and it's not welded in place, consider pulling the cowl top cover off or get a standing appointment with a chiropractor

    Anything else - well, I can share pain in wiring these cars
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  2. #2
    sgo70's Avatar
    sgo70 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks guys,

    Dave-that's what I thought. There is a brake switch light that comes off the column but mine doesn't fit that plug. I'll try phoning them.

    Iceburgh-I found a diagram for that, thanks.

    Falconvan-It had to be a forged rod for all the high speed cornering I'm gonna be doing.

    IC2- Those kind of tips are great, I'll have to go back and read it again as I go along and I think I'll have a better understanding of some of it. I made my dash removable so I can wire it all up and have the main connectors so all I have to do is plug them in. Sounds easy, but I'm sure there will be more to it than that.

    I also flipped the fuse box so the wires are coming out the top.

    Sean
    Last edited by sgo70; 01-19-2009 at 10:28 AM.

  3. #3
    sgo70's Avatar
    sgo70 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I've been searching around for direction so I thought I would verify this. I'm wiring up my engine now and I have a 100 amp. one wire alt. and a mini Powermax starter.

    First off the solenoid has two large lugs and one small one. One of the large lugs has a wire connected to the starter so does this mean the other goes to the battery? Also the ign. switch start must go to the small lug, am I right? Now where does the solenoid power go to?? I also assume the starter and alt. are both grounded through the engine. I'm getting more confused.

    The one wire alt. says to use a jumper cable from it to the battery side of the solenoid, is that it, do I not need the alternator power and exciter then.

    My HEI has three wires, black, red and yellow and I have no idea what to do here. I think the coil pos. and the tach go here as well as a ground but I'm not sure either............HELP!

    Sean

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