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Thread: Boxing a frame
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Volvo P1800S
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    Boxing a frame

     



    I've been told that I should box the frame on my '67 Volvo P1800S. I know what that usually means (welding in a top piece to make the C-channel frame a box frame), but I've been told something else. The person that recommended doing this said to do that, as well as welding on new pieces on both sides and the bottom. My question is if that is actually necessary if the existing frame isn't rusted out. Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    Should work with just the normal boxing. Might want to add a gusset or two wherever the crossmembers and critical suspension brackets and other such things go... Not familiar at all with the car you're doing, a pic of the frame would help a lot.....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    Geronimo's Avatar
    Geronimo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 58 Apache 3100
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    Do you need to? No
    Will it add strength and rigidity? Yes
    What do you need? You decide

  4. #4
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    thanks a ton, I'm gonna be taking some pictures of the car today, I'll try and get some decent shots of the frame, the frame is still all coated in the damn undercoating, but at least you can get an idea of what it looks like

  5. #5
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Just finishing measuring all the frame rails and taking some pics. The existing frame is 1/8" thick, should I use 3/16" to do the boxing like it seems most people are using?

  6. #6
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Some pics...hope these help some, I haven't cleaned up the frame yet, but of course that is in order
    Attached Images

  7. #7
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    true, the floor was very thin and rusted out in places, which is initially why I pulled it out, then I found that certain parts of the frame were rusted through (you can see some of my cuts in one of the pictures). also, the floor was not very thick which is why I was wondering how thick the boxing should be. I think the route that I'll take now is to just box the frame (top, sides, and bottom) for re-inforcement, then weld in the new floor pan. I'm kind of dumbfounded that you had to point that out to me actually. I've thought for so long on this frame ordeal, I guess I just got overwhelmed. Oh well, soon all will be better though.

  8. #8
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I wouldn't use anything that heavy, 10ga. would be fine. It's not the thickness of the plate, it's just the fact that it's boxed. No reason to use anything heavier then the original frame material...
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  9. #9
    scotter's Avatar
    scotter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    It's not uncommon to put a volvo head on that motor as a performance upgrade.
    Go ahead and tell me what you think, just don't expect me to change my mind.

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