do your own interior

I am not a professional upholsterer by any stretch of the imagination. But I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express one night 30 years ago.
that being said I have been doing my own interior panel for years. I make the moulding forms out of sheetmetal, plywood or fiberglass then cover them.
I do not own a sewing machine but the only thing I have to farm out is the seats.

On Shirley's mustang we decided to change the entire interior so all of the current panels became obsolete. The following pictures show how simple it is to make the panel behind the seats.
#1 shows what the new sheet metal bulhead looks like. We decided to make a panel that would cover the top of the deck from cage uprights and down the new section part between the seats.
#2 shows how I used a piece of 1/4" plywood and cut it to fit the top. then I sawed kerfs 1/8" deep every 1/2" for the radius. I then screwed it to the bulkehead to make sure it fit .
#3 I simply used some fiberglass body putty to fill in the kerfs so they would hold the shape.
#4 I then pulled the panel off and used fiberglass cloth to reinforce the back so when I sanded the front smooth it would not loose it's shape.
#5 shows the 1/4" closed cell foam used to make the inital padding.

#6 Use 3M #74 spary adhesive. DO NOT use 77 or 80 because they will lose adhesion when the sun beats down on them.
you can use #74 or purchase professional adhesive by the qurat and spray it through your paint gun. I tried that and it is a lot easier and less messy to buy the 74 in spray cans.
#7 shows the foam glued on. I can show you how to cut it to fit around the edges and where to stop the foam to get the best look for your upholstery.
#8 show the padded panel in place.
Now is the time to add any graphics that you might want. Flames, lines or patterns. That is done with additonal foam cut into shapes. I will be glad to go into that detail if anyone is interested.

The next step is covering it with vinyl. I like to use Pleather because it looks better and is thinner so it is easier to pull into shape.

Wow! very neat and professional looking job. you are very talented.

Thanks Barb for the kind words, But it is really simple to do. Here are a few shots of some graphics I used in the Willys.

way cool graphics.

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Flames, lines or patterns. That is done with additonal foam cut into shapes. I will be glad to go into that detail if anyone is interested.

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Very nice work and yes I'd like to know the details. I'm planning on the interior of my F100 to be my winter project.

Thanks,

Yea, more details and pictures, that's cool! Just so I get this right, you carve out the graphics on the wood and then glue the pleather onto it with the adhesive???

Sean

Wow...me too. Pics please. I'm planning to do my door panels and the surround behind the seat. Every idea helps!

Dave G

Wow!!! That is realy sharp, good work.
We Need more people to show this kind of stuff.
Hey if you do your window felts or rubber around
your doors or rear deck lid. please show some photo's
of that. Maybe some one can reccomend a good book
for that. I need to learn that for my 65 ranchero.
Thanks for the pictures. Kurt

Holiday inn? I think you've got a budding talent you've been hiding from us! Nice work!

41 when you heat the pleather will the foam soften also when you are forming it . Did you apply pleather with the flames by hand or use some type of roller . Very good tech thread also I believe this is the biggest hurdle of the car hobby .

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Originally Posted by sgo70

Just so I get this right, you carve out the graphics on the wood and then glue the pleather onto it with the adhesive???

Sean

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Sean, No carving on the wood needed. There are a couple of different ways to get a raised or recessed affect. On the door panels in the Willys I first applied a layer of 1/8" foam to the panel and then drew one flame on the foam and cut it out exposing the wood which gives a 1/8" recess. I used another piece of 1/8" foam drew another flame on it and cut it out. I glued this second flame piece on top of the already foamed panel ajacent to and overlapping the now bare spot which then leaves you with three different 1/8depths, the wood, the first foam layer, and the second foam layer. Now you have a full 3/8" 3D affect to your panel. Then you glue your vinyl on top of all of that. the last picture gives you an idea of the 3D effect better. the second picture shows a dfferent effeect. I used 1/4" strips glued to the wood first and then cover the entire panel which gives a raise look.

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Originally Posted by bluestang67

41 when you heat the pleather will the foam soften also when you are forming it . Did you apply pleather with the flames by hand or use some type of roller . Very good tech thread also I believe this is the biggest hurdle of the car hobby .

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Bobby,

The heating process is very slight using a common hairdryer, just enough make the material slightly warm and a little more "stretchable". there are some techinigues to applying or laying the fabric on larger panels that help with the conturing. One of which is to have two people "drape" the material on to the form while slightly stretching it. This will use use up some of the excess material that might bunch up in the corners or recesses. I use a common kitchen dough roller. It is a double ended one with a 2" roller about a inch in diamter on one end and a 4'" x 1 1/2" diameter on the other. take it to the belt sander and round the sharp edges first, but don't take it back into house so your wife can see it.

What type of foam are you using?

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Originally Posted by falconvan

What type of foam are you using?

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ONLY use CLOSED CELL foam. It is especially made for this use. Open cell is way to soft. I get my foam from ebay. It is used on pool tables and poker tables. Look up "poker table foam". Or you can buy it from your local upholsterer but it will be more expensive there.
#1 pic is 1/8"
#2 pic is 1/4"

if you take your time anyone can do it. The examples you show are great. Done the last few of mine as well using the foam but also have used PVC and CPC plastic sheeting. Easy to use with a little heat it will take any shape you want and stay when colled. There is a plastic company across the street and I can get a 4x8 sheet for about $35
For the headliner of the '32 I used tracing paper and traced the flames off the hood
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0197.jpg

I do like using 3m #90 spray glue....itis in a black and green can . Holds up better to high heat in the summer months

Here's a rear window molding for the willys.
It is impossible to find rear window moldings for a 41 willys and if you do they are usually a rusty POS that cost several hundred $. I made my own by taking a pice of 1/4" plywood and rough cutting it 3" bigger than the opening. I held it up to the opening and had Shirley mark the inside of the glass lip with a felt marker. I then added 1 1/2 " to that line and cut it out. After sanding and smoothing the curves I cut a strip of 1/8" masonite 1" wide and glued and staple it to the inside edge of the pattern. Fill in the back inside corner with fiberglass putty and then grind the glued corner so it has a nice round edge. . Now here's is a neat trick. cut your 1/8" foam 5" wide by the inside radius length + 1/2" overlap. Start by glueing the foam to the INSIDE of the moulding first. After it has set up stretch to foam around the outside of the frame being careful not to tear it. Keep moving around the piece pushing the foam out as you go. this will give you a very tight wrinkle free surface. If you start on the outside you will have all of the excess foam to deal with as you push it inward which will leave wrinkles that you will have to slice to get rid of. Bring your foam all the way around the 1/4" edge and cut with your razor blade so it is flush with the BACKSIDE of the plywood.
Lay your moulding on your vinyl and trace around the insde and the outside edges add 1" onto each line. Glue your vinyl to the insde surface first and let it dry completely. Now begin to work the vinyl up and around heat and stretch it going around the frame and you will have a nice tight seemless covering. Sorry I don't have a good picture of the finished molding right now.

a few shots from the truck I just finished. Started with what vintage air send for under the dash and added on from there and moved the controls. added the center console door panels and everything else.
You can oder plastic from a place like rod doors and also used a headliner from rod doors and covered. In the long run the headliner is formed and is cheaper to do this from RD
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...k/DSC03744.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...k/DSC03746.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...k/DSC04111.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...k/DSC04116.jpg

[QUOTE=iceburgh]a few shots from the truck I just finished. Started with what vintage air send for under the dash and added on from there and moved the controls. added the center console door panels and everything else.
You can oder plastic from a place like rod doors and also used a headliner from rod doors and covered. In the long run the headliner is formed and is cheaper to do this from RD

Very nice work. It is really much easier to do than one would think. I like the idea of the plastic. I have used the Rod Doors pvc molded panels in the past but they are so expensive for what you get when it is posible to duplicate it with your own materials.

Again VERY NICE WORK

Thanks 41 willys. This thread will be a keeper. One question when you cut your flames out of the foam, does your edge on the foam need to be perfect, or do little blemishes hide once you cover it with the leatherette fabric?

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Originally Posted by stovens

Thanks 41 willys. This thread will be a keeper. One question when you cut your flames out of the foam, does your edge on the foam need to be perfect, or do little blemishes hide once you cover it with the leatherette fabric?

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You need to try to be as neat as you can as you can see more than you would think. Use a VERY sharp razor blade and cut at an angle to have a smoother transition.
I go through a dozen blades on each panel because I have found one cut will dull the blade so it will snag.
John

Looks to me like you've got some hidden God given talents !!

you can also use a sanding block to sand the edges and put a contour on them

I did my own interior as well with the exception of the seat, console and dash. I don't sew, but I can fabricate and glue stuff together.

Lynn,
Nice job, I especially like the door panel layout.
John

how is the headlining in that 32 coupe done without the pleats in it for the bows? Is it a fiberglass mould or was it made specifically for the car?

I stapled interior backing (waterproof cardboard) to the wooden bows with an air stapler. From there, I covered it with quarter inch closed cell foam using 3M's #90 spray glue. After than I covered the foam with the vinyl fabric using the same spray glue. I don't know how Iceburg did his, but perhaps he can chime in. It looks like a full ceiling insert, but he will have to explain what he used to hold it up there.

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Originally Posted by rumrumm

I stapled interior backing (waterproof cardboard) to the wooden bows with an air stapler. From there, I covered it with quarter inch closed cell foam using 3M's #90 spray glue. After than I covered the foam with the vinyl fabric using the same spray glue. .

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I did the Willys much the same way as Rumrumm did his accept I used 1/8"closed cell and 3M 74, then added the raised portions with more pieces of 1/8" then covered that with the same type of headliner material used in new cars. I found the headliner material is much more pliable than vinyl and you can get around the corners with out any wrinkles. It is all a matter of preference as to the material and the final look you want. Headliners always seem so daunting but are really not that hard.

John

Made a mold for the roof in one piece from glass and then cut in two to cover and fit. .
You can see it here and then notice the line where it was cut in the second pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...%20rod/116.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/IMG_0197.jpg
The reason I cut it was to be able to get the curves looking correct with the material.
Leather will not shrink as easy as some others

Hey Icebergh,
How did you make the fiberglas mold? I've never worked with fiberglas but would be interested to know the process you went through to create this piece for your car. Thanks.

Randy

Gosh darn, you folks make that look easy!!!!!! I wish some of you lived closer to me, I do! GREAT WORK. One of the best threads I've read for sure! Many thanks. Perley

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Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Icebergh,
How did you make the fiberglas mold? I've never worked with fiberglas but would be interested to know the process you went through to create this piece for your car. Thanks.

Randy

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The head liner came with the car...we made the exstensions using slipsheets...basically a real heavy paper board and formed it to shape then used glass sheets and resin. Lots of grinding and sanding to form