Thread: Rearend links- 4 link, 3 link, parellel, angled???

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It's all a matter of personal choice and the intended use of the vehicle. If I'm going to build a car that has to perform well at the drag strip or on a road course and hold the supension geometry close to the design figures, then I might use harder material to facilitate that.

But on the street, I will not tolerate the harshness of materials other than rubber. The same way I will not tolerate a shift kit in an automatic transmission on the street. Having my head jerked back on every shift is not my idea of driving pleasure. I'll tolerate it at the drags because that, in my opinion, is what a shift kit was designed for in the first place and I only have to tolerate it for 2 shifts on a 3-speed box.

Here's another for instance on the OEM bushings, these are for a Chevelle upper link at the rear. Go to the boneyard and buy an upper link. Beat the bushing out of it and closely measure the i.d. at both diameters (there's a step in there). Machine a bushing tube to replicate the measurements of the OEM piece. Weld the bushing to your link rod. Buy these Moog bushings at your parts house. Press in new Moog bushings. Fabricate mounts to accept Moog bushing bolt. Enjoy.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QQMOK5161.html

Bottom line: If you are able to tolerate some harshness in the ride quality and it is important to you to hold the design dimensions close, then use the Delrin bushings you have. If you're inclined toward a smoother, quieter, more compliant ride quality and holding the design dimensions close is not that important to you, then fabricate some bushing tubes and use the Moog rubber units.

Don, I
Are your bushings Poly or rubber?

Thanks guys[/QUOTE]


Rubber. BTW, those arms you built really look professional.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Don, I
Are your bushings Poly or rubber?

Thanks guys

Rubber. BTW, those arms you built really look professional.

Don[/QUOTE]

There are Poly, why? What do you think?

You can see the bars in these shots.
Can I have the upper bar a little inboard from the lower bar?

You can also see the transmission tail shaft, and the yoke on the rearind pinion shaft. Both are mocked up at ride height, but pinion angle is not yet determaned. You can imagine the driveshaft connececting the two.

What do you think about this?
Does this look too extreme?

Its interesting having large rear wheels and a low motor with a short driveshaft.

Yes I did ask this question on another forum, but I have to ask all my friends. Thats just the way I am.

Thanks

If this is ride height, I would be concerned with u-joint angles through suspension travel. Especially in compression. I would think the triangulated 4-link would fit your application better than the parallel setup.

Or you could run the links rearward toward the bumper

Here's my idea of extending the link mount back behind the diff....

And here's (I think) Jerry's idea of extending the links to the rear for attachment.....

Just playin' around here because I love to do this sort of thing. I'm working on my desk with a ruler at 1/8 scale. If any of you other guys like doing drafting/drawing, a dandy board can be had for cheap. Go to one of the home improvement outlets and buy a door. Cover it with a smooth, thin sheet of linoleum and make a down and dirty stand for it from some inexpensive 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 lumber. Makes a dandy board and you can easily draft out 1/2 scale automotive projects. T-squares and such can be bought pretty cheaply from drafting supply outlets. Drafting 1/2 scale and dividing the lines with the sharp points on your 6" dial caliper can get you pretty darned close. When done with your drawing, multiply times 2 and you have the dimensions for the actual parts.

Anyway, here's another idea for limiting lateral movement of the diff without having to use a Panhard bar. In my opinion, those things are an engineering abomination and that Panhard guy should have had his head pinched off as a baby.

[QUOTE=techinspector1]Just playin' around here because I love to do this sort of thing. I'm working on my desk with a ruler at 1/8 scale. If any of you other guys like doing drafting/drawing, a dandy board can be had for cheap. Go to one of the home improvement outlets and buy a door. Cover it with a smooth, thin sheet of linoleum and make a down and dirty stand for it from some inexpensive 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 lumber. Makes a dandy board and you can easily draft out 1/2 scale automotive projects. T-squares and such can be bought pretty cheaply from drafting supply outlets. Drafting 1/2 scale and dividing the lines with the sharp points on your 6" dial caliper can get you pretty darned close. When done with your drawing, multiply times 2 and you have the dimensions for the actual parts.

QUOTE]


I had to go back and search for this one Richard.... Got to thinking about it today when the dog and I stopped for a coffee break out in the shop.... I'm going to do this for the Bronco II... Reason being the short wheelbase---any errors in my calculations or the geometry on a short (95") wheelbase could result in an ill-handling 'lil truck and some guardrail to guardrail excitement!!!!

Anyway, thanks for the most excellent idea Richard.... Maybe it will help this nearsighted old man avoid a few miscalculations!!!!!

U-DA-MAN!!!!!

Just wondering Techinspector, what do you have against panhard bars. What have they ever done to you!?

As the diff goes through bump and droop, it follows an arc created by the Panhard bar as the bar swings up and down. The bar will be at its longest at rest and will become shorter in both bump and droop, pulling the diff laterally in opposition to the main suspension components, which operate on a completely different arc. It is not in synch with anything else on the car geometrically. Sort of reminds me of an inbred child. Just not right.

As awful as it is, the characteristics of tugging and pushing of the bar can be minimized by intalling it parallel with the diff and making the bar as long as is humanly possible. That involves making brackets to attach it to the diff as far to one side as possible, all the way over to the backing plate. The bracket on the other side should mount the bar onto the frame all the way over by the backing plate on the other side of the car. It's still an engineering abomination, but at least in this manner it's a minimized abomination.

Agreed..... A Watts linkage takes a bit more planning and requires even more room then a panhard bar...but they do work a whole lot better....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Agreed..... A Watts linkage takes a bit more planning and requires even more room then a panhard bar...but they do work a whole lot better....

Watts that?

Sorry I just had to say it.....

Go to your room.