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well if your making a head what so hard making rocker arm ?:D you could buy the roller tips and make up the bodys out of 7075 and use a ampco bronze bushings for the body.. that one lite piston looks like a mahle piston i use in a 350 not to long ago
Sorry Ken I must be dense I'm still trying to picture a split head, thru the combustion chamber. Is there any way of doing a lower half with the chamber, the upper with valve train, and water passages. Something like using the rocker studs as additional bolts to attach the two halves.
Don, I understand your exgirl friend had the same opinion........LOL.
BradC
Pat, the problem that Ken is facing regarding the rocker arm is the layout ends up with one rocker arm that is rather short and one really long....because one valve stem axis is laid towards the centerline of the engine and one valve towards the outside. The Brazilian V8-60 hemis had this problem....was not friendly to revs.
mike in tucson
well then throw some bucks over the top of the valves and set a cam over them .over head v12 or ?? stick some JAG heads on it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by robot
http://home.comcast.net/~fairlane2k/Emi ... m-Test.wmv
Here is the problem, but I have a solution. I will get back on here later and show you.
Ken
It didn't work, if you do a search for V8 60 Ardun, the fifth site down it says The Hemi.com View topic - Brazilian V8 Hemi Video, you can see what is going on in the valve train.
Don- You are underestimating yourself, there isn't any difference in building a motor or a car. It's just different information, and you need different tools.
Pat-You are right, we can and are going to make the valve train. JE makes our pistons.
BradC- The head would be split threw the intake and exhaust ports, so we could completely machine the ports.
Mike- I think we have a way of fixing that, see below.
Pat- It's funny you should suggest that. When people find out you are doing something like this you get to see some pretty strange pieces. A guy came over to show me his V8 60 motor he put Suzuki 4 cylinder heads on.
This is what we are thinking. The valves on the flathead are 5 degrees tilted toward the piston. I'm going to move it 10 degrees toward the intake manifold. So now the push rod (taking the place of the valve) will be at 5 degrees the other way. This will allow more room for the rocker arm to get longer which is what we need. Because now the valves will be put in horizontally to the block just like they are in the block This will eliminate that long exhaust rocker arm that Ardun heads had because they put the valves in there heads vertically to the head. Now both rockers will be the same length. The rockers I made for the EVO motor looks like they will work. I made them out of billet first than after testing we had the tooling made and cast them out of stainless to decrease there size, it eliminated a lot of the bulkiness of the aluminum.
We are dealing with a 2 7/8 bore dia. Things get tight really fast.
Ken
if you needed more off set you could bore the valve seats right out and press sleeves in and run a off set push rod cup lifter if your going roller cam ?
Pat- We are going to run a roller cam and lifters but the water jacket is right there where the valve guide used to be. All I can get is 5 degrees, I wish I could get about 13 to 15 degrees, it would make things a lot better. We are going to run a smaller exhaust valve than what they have so we can roll the valves further over to the exhaust side.
Ken
it would be alot of work but can you bore out the valve pocket and make up sleeves and press them down on a step like this L then the sleeves has a floor and a wall to seal up on this is how i put a sleeve in a block and if i am in water it seals up on the step
looks like a fun job you can fly me out and i will help:D the one thing that will take alot of time is getting them head studs out :eek:
Ken I have to agree with Don. I can't manage to properly seat a front seal, let alone design and build an engine. :eek: As always, thanks for sharing this process with us. It
s great to watch your ideas become realities.:D
Pat-What if you run into porosity pockets when you bore the hole? Do you have any suggestions on the studs if we do run into some tight ones? I'm going to finish taking it apart soon and get it cleaned, I would like to remove them first.
Steve- You just learn from every problem, you know how to put a seal in properly now, I bet you won't forget. :D
Ken
Ken, the stud can be burned out with an EDM...if you can find a machine big enough to hold the block. Same as burning out broken taps. You can use a copper-tungsten
electrode....on the corroded studs, the threads may not be in good shape.
mike in tucson
hi ken is it just the way the picture look or did these engines have the same size valves both intake and exaust kinda looks like that in the photo....ted
try bees wax on the block heat up the deck and let the bees wax wick in you my have to do it more then one time to bad you did not live close i would like check it out if you lived by me i have a 500 gal hot tank with the good stuff in it will eat some rust . any one has one out were you are or buy some of that rust eater flip the block upside down in a tray and let the rust eater work from the deck and the under side to .on the porosity it would be nice to have a junk block to cut on .i think if you cut the seat s out and use a bowl hog that tapper will help or just get the block up on a mill and go in on the angle with a end like a 7/16 mill and take what you just need if you use a bowl hog you should center up on a pilot that plug in the guide holeQuote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm