Need help- Lug stem is stripped

I will try and explain-

I think the lug nut got cross thread on the actual stem "wheel lug" (that sticks out from the axle with threads on the outer side of it). I try to remove the lug nut and all that happens is the whole thing turns! Even the whole wheel lug inside the axle area!

I have tried to put a pair of vise grips on the backside wheel stem but since it is round and very smooth there is no way for the vise grips to GRIP onto it enough for me to turn the lug. When I turn the lug nut it just turns inside the vise grip too!

How the hale can I get this thing off???

You are going to have to cut the nut off.(or possibly drill the stud out)..Depending on the situation it can be very hard not to damage the wheel.. If it happens to be on a front drum application you can pull the drum and torch it from the back side..sloppy but it will work...You have a bad situation there..

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Originally Posted by bucs012

I have tried to put a pair of vise grips on the backside wheel stem but since it is round and very smooth there is no way for the vise grips to GRIP onto it enough for me to turn the lug. When I turn the lug nut it just turns inside the vise grip too!

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Since you have access to the back of the stud, can you put a small tack weld on the stud to hold it while the lug nut comes off? Once the wheel is off, grind down the tack weld, install a new lug stud. Just a thought.

Mike

Got room to get a Nut-Cracker on it?

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Originally Posted by C9x

Got room to get a Nut-Cracker on it?

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I don't think so. i can barely gets the v-grips on there. The head is down/inside of the inner rotor opposed to flush access.

You are not going to be able to weld the stud to the hub and is not a good idea anyway. Weld a piece of scrap to the head of the stud that will hit on the rotor to keep it fron turning.

...You can drill the center of the stud and insert a bolt extractor. Hold the tool and spin the nut off. Then again...you can hold the nut w/ vise grips while you drill the stud with a half inch bit. Or you....;)

If I could only get a drill bit or anything in there!

this is a long shot but if you can get it to tighten up you might be able to break the stud..Maybe hit it forward with an air gun while trying to hold it..Just a thought

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Originally Posted by Daffy427

this is a long shot but if you can get it to tighten up you might be able to break the stud..Maybe hit it forward with an air gun while trying to hold it..Just a thought

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naa.... They only break when ya DON"T want'm to..... :LOL: :LOL:

MM64 :cool:

As stated earlier a nut cracker,also if you have a dremel cut off disc you can cut the bolt or split the nut in two pieces and knock out the lug.

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Originally Posted by MrMopar64

naa.... They only break when ya DON"T want'm to..... :LOL: :LOL:

MM64 :cool:

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4 feet of pipe on a breaker bar says it breaks if it wants to or not:D

It’s a job anyway you look at it. I had a nut that was rounded on the rear wheel of a 67 Nova you only have so much room to work. I tried just about everything but didn’t give up. I ended up using the air hammer, plus a sharp chisel with a 4-pound hammer to try to back it off.

Since the stud is turning I would also try to break it.

Depending on what kind of wheel it is, if it is a common wheel just waste it by cutting the rim, save your back.

Richard

Just start drilling the stud from the front---when you get up to 1/2 inch it will fall off as you get thru the nut---then drive out the remainder

if chevy and some other cars have them C clips lift the car up drop the rear end cover pull the C lip out pull the axle rigth out and every thing will come out the you can cut off the back side of the wheel stud if ford or as no C clip burn off the brake backing plate T bolts off and axle will come out. that way you do not screw the rim up.if not worry about the rim blow it off with a torch if you good with one?

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Just start drilling the stud from the front---when you get up to 1/2 inch it will fall off as you get thru the nut---then drive out the remainder

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this will work good to alot of the cheaper lug nut have thin caps on them step drill it out big has you can up 1/2 and use a big dirft puch and hit the head of the stud and see if you can drive it back if not keep drilling it till you can hit it thru punch the lug nut first buy some good drill bits i would used a carbide ball mill after drilling a pilot hole thru the lug nut 3/16 or so if a nice rim tape off so you cut down on clean up and you do not scratch up the rim from chips off the drill

I have used a carbide burr on a diegrinder to surgically remove them. If you can get at the back the welding trick is easiest. The hole in the hub will be wollered out now and a new stud the same size will just spin out and you will be at the same movie again so why not just weld the stud in anyway.

step 1- Read my post again. step 2- Read ..Jerry Clayton`s post.;)

you can hold the outside of the lug nut with a box wrench and if you bore a hole thru the stud and drive a ez out in the stud to turn the stud to back it off all you will do is busted the ez out if it is that tight then you will have a much bigger mess .i take bust EZ out from time to time were guys bust them off in blocks heads and cranks there are no fun to get out trust me on that one

Jerry and Pat-

After spending more time on it last night. My wife thinks I am 'NUTS" by the way.........She does not understand that it is "man against this freaking bolt/nut!!!" I must win!!!!!!!!:LOL:

I did not read your posts till this morning, but last night I DID dremel tool off the end of my lug nut which opened up access to the bolt! Since the lugnut is cross thread on the bolt this allows me to put a closed end 3/4 wrench on the lug not now and my plan is to............................

Drill out the bolt using a Cobalt or Carbide drill bit from the front side! Plan to buy a 7/16 and drill a pilot whole and see how it goes. If that is too small then I will use the 1/2 inch to finish the job. I want to make sure I only drill into the bolt (inside the lug nut) enough to allow the lug not to come or twist off, before drilling into the hub hole where the stud fits. Should not be hard since there is about a 3mm gab between the lugnut end and the surface of the wheel. Then just pull it thru the backside.

Stany tuned! I am going to frame this damn thing and hang it on the wall when it comes out! ;)

...if he breaks the E-Z-Out, We get a "good read" to share w/ our buddies. (just kidding):3dSMILE:

I WON!

Went home over lunch, Cobalt 7/16 drill bit to the stud for about 2 minutes and "pop" came the lug! Never touched the wheel or area that the stud needs to go back in to.

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!

I love a happy ending.

Mike

Make sure you check the hub...... cuz if the old one turned in the hub most likely the new one will too... ;)

MM64 :cool:

Ya, I am going to get a regular sized one then get an oversized one too. I know speedway has oversized wheel lugs. May have to have one lug a little larger than the rest.
Also could spot weld the new one in and be careful with it in future.

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Originally Posted by bucs012

Ya, I am going to get a regular sized one then get an oversized one too. I know speedway has oversized wheel lugs. May have to have one lug a little larger than the rest.
Also could spot weld the new one in and be careful with it in future.

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wheel studs come in many sizes at one time dorman made them .just go to a good parts store and they should match up some thing. race stuff we just tap them out for 1/2- 20 and used a grade 8 cap screw for a stud and thread them in . allen heads work good .on the rear would tap them out for 5/8 drive studs

Glad it worked out for you

i bet you feel much better now you got you lug nuts off........ that rim .sorry just could not help myself .

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

you can hold the outside of the lug nut with a box wrench and if you bore a hole thru the stud and drive a ez out in the stud to turn the stud to back it off all you will do is busted the ez out if it is that tight then you will have a much bigger mess .i take bust EZ out from time to time were guys bust them off in blocks heads and cranks there are no fun to get out trust me on that one

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I virtually never use easy outs any more, they have caused way more problems than they ever solved. And especially those lefty twist in ones, if you own a set throw them away now before they hurt you. If a left hand drill bit won't bring it out those won't either.

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Originally Posted by willowbilly3

I virtually never use easy outs any more, they have caused way more problems than they ever solved. And especially those lefty twist in ones, if you own a set throw them away now before they hurt you. If a left hand drill bit won't bring it out those won't either.

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I did not tell you guys this but.......I did try my "easy out." I drilled it into the backside of the stud. Then had my wife use the tire iron to turn the lug on the other side... Snapped the damn easy out in half! Then, later when I was messing around feeling back behind the hub, I cut my finger on the damn thing where it broke off. I got the Dremel Tool out and ground down the easy out, level with the rest of the backside of the stud.

I was at war with this thing, I tell you! **)

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Originally Posted by bucs012

I did not tell you guys this but.......I did try my "easy out." I drilled it into the backside of the stud. Then had my wife use the tire iron to turn the lug on the other side... Snapped the damn easy out in half! Then, later when I was messing around feeling back behind the hub, I cut my finger on the damn thing where it broke off. I got the Dremel Tool out and ground down the easy out, level with the rest of the backside of the stud.

I was at war with this thing, I tell you! **)

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well i get them time from time were a guy will snap them off and i ball mill them out last week guy came in with a fresh sbc short block that the crank bolt was busted off and busted the Ez out to:D so i did get the hole mess out of the crank the bolt bottom out from the looks of it and rip out the threads and lock up and he snap the bolt off . then he used a ez out and busted that off .well i good at getting them out and like a good fight but not a war. it was getting to war .when all said an done i drill and tap it from 7/16 up to 1/2 there are some rules on how to use EZ outs i use them on galley plugs all the time it faster for me in the preping of a block for the hot tank if it a old rust block.1 i drill as big of a hole as i can.2 drill all the way thru that is the same with a bolt or stud .3 i only use the EZ out s that look like a tooth pick. if rusty drilling them thru the bolt or stud in a blind hole makes a well so you can spay wd 40 or some thing like that let it set . if there is some thing left or flush i tig a nut to the stud or bolt if very rusty i heat and use wax to wick the threads before i us a EZ out