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I'm going back and forth about whether to get a firewall mount canister fuel filter or an inline one. I'm oscillating between these two from summit. What do you all think. It will go on my new 460 with just a mechanical fuel pump, and mild engine build, with an edelbrock 750 carb
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
or
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
i would use a in line
Summit makes two almost identical canister types, one is 2.44 in diameter the other 3.25". Both same price. The size doesn't really matter as I have the room in the engine compartment. I like the fact that the canisters probably do a better job. Next question. What do you think about where in line to put it. Before a mechanical fuel pump, or after?
after the pump if there is one in the tank on mechanical .i would look at the one that works better for the room you have
Not exactly "on topic", but while your plumbing in the new fuel filter it would be a great time to ad a fuel "shut off" valve. You can get a quality "ball type" natural gas valve at your local hardware store for about $5 and place it between the tank and the fuel filter. Next time you want to check, or replace the fuel filter, just turn the valve one quarter turn and your ready for service.
Here's my 2 cents :rolleyes:
I added one of the summit canister filters (G1503.... the first link) to my 76 Dodge PU shortly after it was built because I was getting a bit of crap from the original tank. They are a good unit and also by design will seperate any moisture that may get in the tank.
Here is the down side IMO. I have not been able to cross the paper filter element with something that was OE (spell that cheap). Replacement filter elements are $10 each......but they do include all new mounting bolts and the 2 allen wrenches to install the filter AND brackets :confused: . Not a bad deal , but you don't need all the extra stuff that it comes with it and they charge you for.
As an aftermarket part when they discontinue it and you can't get replacement cartriges for it your kind of screwed (which is why I ordered 10 extra filter kits for mine). Which will be the quandry with either filter.
the Fram HPG-1 canister filter was originally used on some diesel trucks as I understand.. I don't think it would be hard to find replacement elements for that filter..
HPG-1 is more money, but if the filters are available, it's worth it... I bought the HPG-1 for my Falcon 200 I6 engine
I originally put the Summit canister filter on my car near the tank but found it was too close to the exhaust so ended up with a 6" Speedway in line race car filter. I think the canister unit would do a better job but on my 'A' chassis, just wouldn't fit with all the rest of the chassis clap trap. But, since I may be taking those big 50 series Flowmaster mufflers off (ho hum sound) and putting glass packs on, might just reinstall the Summit piece.
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by John Palmer
You will really be happy later if you take John's advice.
Ken
I agree with the ball check valve.
Turns a difficult job into an easy one.
Couple pics of the fuel filter in my car.
Hard to tell but the plumbing is, tank, ball valve, filter, pump.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...eatShield1.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...eatShield2.jpg
The filter is a small Wix fuel filter.
The mount is a regular oil filter remote mount for the Fram PH8a series of filters.
Although, there's a different nipple that has the remote filter threads on one end and a smaller thread for the filter.
After I made the nipple and put it all together I find that Wix makes a PH8a size fuel filter that screws right onto the remote mount.
The Wix filter box will say "fuel fiter" on it.
Pay attention so you don't end up with an oil filter in your fuel system.
That reminds me that I need to make up a couple of heat shields - thx:DQuote:
Originally Posted by C9x
Good idea. I pondered this for a minute before the light bulb went off in my dim mind! Lot easier than having gas all over the place! Also answers question #2 that it is ok to mount the canister type filter between the tank and the the pump(mechanical). I like the canister type because they are big enough to hold a larger filter, which I hope equates to longer time between filter changes. I have a dinky inline fuel filter on the Harley. It used to have a glass one, until it broke one day, fortunately while working on the bike, and not riding it. I now have a small billet one, that I wonder how well it works, and how often to clean the metal screen inside. Since the bike has a newly lined tank, new hoses, etc. it's a very clean system. Same will go for the truck, with new tank, lines and filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by John Palmer
Sometimes, if money was not generated in limited supply, things like this would seem to be just the ticket! But not for $219.00:CRY:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ei-12331_w.jpg
I use two inlines on my 34, one between the tank and the elec pump and the other before the carb. Only have one on the 57, frame mounted Fram type before the carbs. All have always done their job. Mostly a matter of choice.
On the 57, I have a switch to cut off power to the elec pump so I can run my carbs dry. Then changing the gas filter is not a mess job. Will likely do the same to the 34 one day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
You can make a lot of this kinda stuff with a small lathe.
You could probably duplicate it for way under $10 for the aluminum and the mesh screen.
It's probably a fairly good filter, but the stainless mesh strikes me as an old fashioned deal that's quick and easy to set up for the mfg.
Far better imo to have a screw on filter.
Better filtration and swapping is easier than dis-assembling and cleaning.
219.00 is seriously over-priced.
Granted, good looking, but I wouldn't buy it if you knocked 90% off.
I think what we have here is the Rodeo Drive syndrome.
I just went back to this set of photos a second time and now I think I see the ball check valve. The brass connection just before the inlet on the fuel filter? I didn't see the handle, but that's got to be it!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by C9x
Mike I just bought this canister filter and noticed the accesories on the right side of the page, as I checked them out, I came across that you can buy just the filter for $6.95, and not the whole kit. Might be worth just getting a few of those for when all of your gaskets are still good!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=FRM-HPGC1
The Summit filter?? @$200+
Speedway has what appears to be the identical filter but without the manufacture's name for $119
A 100 micron SS filter has the potential of passing a lot of crud going through the filter.
That's it.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Purchased at an oil field supply house, but probably the same thing as the natural gas hardware store valve.
In service for 14 years with no probs.
I'm surprised you didn't comment on the fuel pump....
C9 Nice set up clean and neat. Not sure what you mean about the fuel pump?
Actually being as how I got the same unit from Speedway,I ordered an extra filter $5.95 from them then a couple of days later I stopped by Lopers' in Phoenix and they carry them in stock,that is a Professional Products filter,Summit just puts their label on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
It wasn't connected when the pics were shot.
I was running a mechanical at the time.
Back to electric now.
I carry a spare electric and the hoses for the mechanical pump.
The electric pump isn't hard to change when the car's off the ground a little bit.
When it's on the ground, sitting on asphalt on a 100 degree day and you're wearing shorts . . . never mind....:CRY:
I need to set up some kind of quick change deal so the pump bracket is easy to access.