Thread: Steering geometry issue

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Ah, yes, the old throttle steer, why I never liked fwd cars.
I guess I never really considered the steering box the stops, I just wanted to be using the full stroke, which apparently isn't the issue I thought it was.
Now I am trying to remember how the Saginaw power steering pressure relief works. Is it just a bypass in the pump or does the box bypass at the ends of the stroke

Today I wanted it to steer, just to see where I need to go next. I went with a foot long pitman arm and shortened the steering arm back to 10 inches and left the 4 inch rise, that was about as far as I felt I wanted to compromise out and still keep my drag link level. That left me with about 2 turns stop to stop and everything is tweaky. 10 and 4 are just way past acceptable and the econoline spindles are too small to really get anything very stout bolted to. What I thought was a stout and well braced steering box isn't. It seems like a big bucket full of compromises no matter how I cut it at this point. Tomorrow I am going to try and scrounge up an econoline steering box and start over I think.

I know this thread is old and I haven't posted for a while. I had put this whole thing on the back burner for a couple years. I just this week got it all ironed out. It took some doing and not quite traditional to say the least.
There was just no way to get what I wanted with the pitman shaft coming out that high on the cowl so I built this drop.



It also slowed down the steering as the sprockets are 11/15. Then I had to extend the steering arm because the tire hit the drag link in a left turn.
Here is what I had.


And the modified version tacked in place.



My drag link is level and I now have full swing on the steering wheel with a little over 3 turns and both spindles hitting the stops, plus I didn't give up any footroom.