Evercoat Metal 2 metal?

Trying out Evercoats metal to metal to finish off the roof seam on the 48 Ford F1. I've read online that is the best thing next to lead for filling metal seams. Since lead has shown itself to be a little toxic, and my welding skills more toxic :LOL: , I decided to give it a try. Just wondering if any of you have used it. It just came in the mail this morning, since I couldn't find it locally, so I'll be trying it out this weekend.
I also saw a good article on body work in this month's(October) Street Rodder. What a great magazine! Not only featured one of our own builders, but actually has good helpfull articles in it.
Anyway let me know what you think if you have used this in the past!

stovens,

I have used it, and so far, it seems to be working although when it dries it is so hard it can be a little brittle, so I would not put it on Door edges or where something can hit it (it can chip)-there seems to be a lot of people who don't like it out there. They say you can drill and tap it (and I believe that).

The only thing that I have wondered is if it's so hard/brittle that when some type of flex happens will it separate from the parent Metal-hasn't happened to me, however there are also people out there that absolutely love the stuff-

I tried using it once but it all peeled off in sheets. I took it back to the paint supply house and they said I was not the first to have the trouble. They were nice enough to replace it with some light weight putty.
I probably did something wrong. I have often thought the base metal needs to be rougher for better adherence but now I am too leery of it to try it again.

John

I used it once and had bad luck also. looked good for about a year, then it started cracking, and pulled right off.

Boy thats a lot of bad feedback, considering what I've read elsewhere. Anyone with good results?:LOL:

Should work great on a metal seam... As long as you use a very thin coat and top it with some more workable filler. Does a heck of a good job sealing out moisture but not recommended as a final filler... Use a little bit, just enough to cover the welds and cleaned seam, then go to a filler with fine strand 'glass, then the lightweight filler....

All fillers have their proper usage, no one is good for everything.....

BTW, the method I suggested came straight from an Evercoat rep a few years back. Never have had a bit of trouble with it when used in this manner..... Also works great as a first coat (again, very thin) when molding in bike frames, etc....

i have use it but the ground fiber glass mar glass etc works very good and finsh with a body filler like gold or premium finsh filler

Good advice Dave, ill have to try that. I used it way wrong then, cause i had it on pretty thick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Should work great on a metal seam... As long as you use a very thin coat and top it with some more workable filler. Does a heck of a good job sealing out moisture but not recommended as a final filler... Use a little bit, just enough to cover the welds and cleaned seam, then go to a filler with fine strand 'glass, then the lightweight filler....

All fillers have their proper usage, no one is good for everything.....

BTW, the method I suggested came straight from an Evercoat rep a few years back. Never have had a bit of trouble with it when used in this manner..... Also works great as a first coat (again, very thin) when molding in bike frames, etc....

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Thanks Dave. I'll see what I can find as far as medium and light weight fillers go. I have a medium one now, but I can't remeber if it has fiberglass in it. I'm at work, so I'll check when I get home. I bought it last year at the auto paint store, so it is a good brand, but not sure which one!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stovens

Thanks Dave. I'll see what I can find as far as medium and light weight fillers go. I have a medium one now, but I can't remeber if it has fiberglass in it. I'm at work, so I'll check when I get home. I bought it last year at the auto paint store, so it is a good brand, but not sure which one!

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I use all Evercoat products....They have a very good filler with fine strand glass, for a topcoat i use Rage, and a glaze to kill the last of the sanding scratches.... Thing I like best about the Evercoat line is that their fillers do not leave pinholes (unless you mix it too hot), and feather out very nice... I also like thier "featherfill" which is like filler in a spray gun. Takes a lot of air to the gun and a 1.8 or larger tip to spray it. Blocks out very, very well.....

I like the featherfill alot! I used 3 gallons on the merc, that thing was bulletproof.

Well I just got home from work, and the filler I've been using for dents is rage from evercoat, so I guess I just need the fiber filled one, and then I should be set for the time being! I guess "tiger hair" is the name of their fiber filler. And feather fill g2 is the spray on scratch filler. I have had good luck with the evercoat rage so far, so I'm willing to give all their products a try! Thanks again. I'll post so pics as I go. Steve.

Update(which I posted on my project special k thread already, but thought it might be helpfull to someone using these products)
I took Dave's advice and put a small thin layer of metal 2 metal in the groove between the window and roof seem sheet metal. I then did the same thing on the inside of the cab seam(as it will be hidden by the roof liner, and it gives the external stuff someting to grab to. Next I forewent the fiber filler, due to the thinness of where it was going, and put a coat of Rage filler over the metal 2 metal. I then sanded, did a second coat, then hit all of the exposed surfaces with a sanders, and coated with three coats of one step rust converter. Here are a few shots. It's hard to see the metal 2 metal in the first few shots, but the stuff worked pretty slick!
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ens/cab009.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ens/cab010.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ens/cab015.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ens/cab012.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ens/cab017.jpg

That looks real good! Maybe when i get to that part on the panel truck ill follow your way.

The stuff looks like liquid metal and spreads like butter. But I can see if you went to thick that it would tend to crack. I like the idea of putting a fiber filler over it for strength. I may go over it one more time with a thin fiber coat and then another thin coat of Rage. The seem still isn't straight and will need some tweaking.

Dave gives great advice. I used the metal 2 metal only a few times and I can't even remember what it was on. I think it was a welded seam line on a 72 Charger R/T and I cannot remember the other ones. I only used it in medium to light coats and never built it up too much because like Dave mentioned, it gets so hard that it's a pain to cut down and it will chip. As for brands, I am with Dave on this as well, Evercoat makes the best or workable products as far as fillers go IMO. I use their Rage Gold bondo, their glaze in the little squeezable tube deal, and their fine strand kitty hair (this may not be the correct name but it's what I call it and I like the fine hair for mostly what I do).

You say it still isn't filled or straight? Maybe after the fiber coat put the rage on top but put it on thick and then cut it down. When I first started doing body work I would put the filler on thin or just enough (so it seemed) and I ended up cutting it down and it was never enough so I had to add more again and again and cut it down and cut it down (sometimes cut it too much). I learned to just put quite a bit on and cut it down so I dont have to keep doing layer after layer. It's hard to explain and maybe your not even having this problem, I thought I'd address it that's all.

FMX you are exactly right. I tend to put too little, sand it away, and then have to do it again. I put a coat of fiber filled filler over the seam yesterday, and will try to sand it today before work, or get to it tomorrow on my day off. I have never used glaze before, but will look into that on monday as well as the spray on stuff "feather fill" Dave mentioned earlier in this thread.

Sounds good. I remember a few years ago I did a door on a 69 C10 pickup. The customer wanted only a lower half door skin. The new panel was not too great but we put it on anyways and the body line didn't fit right, etc. It needed quite a bit of filler (more than I liked on a vehicle) and I kept putting a coat on, sanding it smooth, another coat, sand it smooth, and did this over and over. The old guy I worked with came over and slabbed a big ass coat on it, hit it down with 36 on a long board, then 80 and finished it with 180 or whatever he used. After that I learned quick and started using more. It's easier to have more than you need and cut off what you dont need than to not have enough and waste more time. You may waste a little more materials (bondo, sandpaper) but you save time which equals more money in some cases.
As for the glaze, it's to fill any sand scratches, pin holes, small imperfections. When mixing filler do not whip it and mix with a stick. What I do (others may have a different method) is use the spreader and just smooth it out and keep putting it on top of eachother and smooth or pull it out like your actually spreading the filler. Hard to explain sorry.