Plumbing the chassis

[35fordcoupe]

I want to confirm some things before I start ordering...

Brake system (4 wheel disc)- 4 braided lines, 2 x 2lb. residual valves (one in front line and one in rear line?), proportioning valve (rear line), 3/16" (?) steel line, how many fittings should I need?

This is my first time bending hard lines and I need some tools. will a cheapy bending tool and flaring tool for ~30 bucks a piece from somewhere like Eastwood work fine? is a forming tool good to have? where is the best/cheapest place to buy all of this?

Fuel lines- other than 3/8" supply and 5/16" return lines i can't think of much more i would need to know? I need to order my tank and should be able to order it with the in tank pump right?

Thanks!

[Dave Severson]

Don't think I'd buy a cheap flaring tool. for the brake lines it has to be a double flare, and you might as well double flare the fuel lines, too....With the hi pressure EFI system I think I would prefer the double flare.....

You can order the pump in tank, this is obviously and EFI setup, but various companies also make some high quality external inline EFI pumps...... Only reason I prefer the external pump is that like the majority of parts they will eventually need replacing and I hate dropping tanks to get at the pump....

[35fordcoupe]

forgot to mention it is mounted under the floor.

I was looking at this flaring kit from Eastwood: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

would that work alright? what options are there short of the hydraulic ones?

[Dave Severson]

Probably do... I have a Snap-on, it's been around and used for better then 20 years... Rigid also makes a nice one, think Menards or Lowes handles them.... Don't remember which store I saw it in....

[ceh383]

forgot to mention it is mounted under the floor.

I was looking at this flaring kit from Eastwood: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

would that work alright? what options are there short of the hydraulic ones?

I bought one of those, take my advise don't waste your money. They make poor flares that leak. We use a Snap On at the race shop, works very well but is a lot of $$$. I bought a ridgid for use at home it is a much better tool.

[IC2]

First of all, you have to determine if you are going to run SAE or AN lines and the diameter - most are 3/16. SAE lines have a 45* double flare while AN have a 37* SINGLE flare and the lines are usually stainless steel. My SAE set up is a 30 year old Imperial kit and works very well though I don't have a picture of that. I would expect to spend $50 or more for an OK US made kit The AN kit is a Rigid and I have a 3/16 dedicated tubing bender. This stuff is is fairly expensive @ about $125 and more most likely now. I also have a couple of $30 Rigid tubing cutters. The AN kit is shown below - (and that is not rust on the bender)

As far as Eastman - "ya pays your money and ya takes your chances" as some of their tools are Harbor Freight Chinese quality with US made prices.

If you order your tank from Tanks. Inc. they will provide an in-tank pump - it will just set you back another bunch of bucks over the standard

[BigTruckDriver]

http://www.inlinetube.com/ Do not waste your money on cheap tools...... You will work twice as hard and work twice as long and very likely you will be buying another tool. Get a good flareing tool the first time..... Personally I would go with a flareing tool from this company before I got one from Eastwood....Eatwood can sell high priced chinese crap, but that another story. And you dont want to use the tubing cutters that are made like the plumbers tubing cutters, you know the cutter that looks like a clamp. This cutter will "work harden" the end and make things more deficult when you go to make your flares. A hacksaw and a file to debur the end is all you need. Be sure to flush out your lines as best you can before assembly. Check the site out and you will get tips for doing the job right. They should even have tips on what your tubing end should look like before the flare so that you get a "QUALITY" flare. IMO if the flare is not perfect ,redo it, you dont want to half ass it when it comes to your brakeing system. and dont forget to put your fitting on before you do the flare,lol....

[IC2]

http://www.inlinetube.com/ Do not waste your money on cheap tools......

Mine shown above came from Inline Tube

[35fordcoupe]

I saw an ad for Inline Tube in Street Rodder last night. I'll have to take a closer look at them.

I was looking at fittings last night and was beginning to conclude that SAE is for use with steel double flar lines and AN is for stainless single flar because TCI has kits set up like that is that right? $200 for 20' of steel line, fittings, 4 braided lines, fasteners, etc from TCI. I figure the 4 braided lines alone would make up most of $200 anyway...good deal? Can you double flar with AN fittings? I am thinking double flared steel lines and SAE fittings...

[firebird77clone]

Better to put fittings on as you flare, but at least remember to put the fittings on BEFORE you do the second flare....

[ceh383]

Can you double flar with AN fittings?

You need to decide which way you want to go AN or ASE. AN use a single 37deg flare while ASE uses a 45deg double flare. It can be double flared but it is not necessary or advisable.

[35fordcoupe]

You need to decide which way you want to go AN or ASE. AN use a single 37deg flare while ASE uses a 45deg double flare. It can be double flared but it is not necessary or advisable.

Ok, I guess I was just confused because I was told to double flare and I have mostly heard of AN fittings and that doesn't add up. I will use SAE fittings becasue I think I will get that TCI kit and it comes with steel lines and SAE fittings. I don't want to pay double for stainless, if steel is good enough for OEM it's good enough for me

[IC2]

You need to decide which way you want to go AN or ASE. AN use a single 37deg flare while ASE uses a 45deg double flare. It can be double flared but it is not necessary or advisable.

You cannot use a double flare with AN fittings - they will not fit the sleeves. You also cannot double flare SS tubing - it splits at the bend. Inline Tube will make up a kit for you with all the fittings and line you need. As a suggestion, use regular carbon steel supply store line first to make a template for your SS lines. It's cheap and you can buy it anywhere. When I made my plumbing up, the CS line templates cost me in the neighborhood of $20 where one length of SS line is ~$20 plus shipping costs and delays. While my chassis came from TCI, I really don't trust them that much to get a simple order right like a plumbing set-up.

Inline did not have DOT flex lines - and the only ones that I'm aware of are Russell's. The DOT needs to show - see photo. The other two show some of what you will be needing. The big -6 flex is my fuel line.

As a note - CS lines will rust from both inside and out. Inside as brake fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs water from the atmosphere. Outside - from the elements. SS is cheap insurance for a non-daily driver.

[ceh383]

You cannot use a double flare with AN fittings - they will not fit the sleeves.

I would have to disagree. It is almost impossible to do it most flaring tools, but it can be done. HERE is a tool made for 37deg double flares to AN standards. Not the kind of tool you find in most garages.....

[IC2]

I would have to disagree. It is almost impossible to do it most flaring tools, but it can be done. HERE is a tool made for 37deg double flares to AN standards. Not the kind of tool you find in most garages.....

This $585 thin wall tubing tool you show a link is for copper and aluminum only according to the information. You cannot safely use either metal for tubing brake lines on an automobile. Try to double flare with SS and you will split it around the circumference of the bend fold. Why would you even want to consider double flares in AN fittings that are designed for and only require a single flare?