Thread: New build thread; 48 Plymouth
Hybrid View
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11-24-2010 07:09 AM #1
Yeah, I think I paid about $120 a piece for those little patch panels. Lucky I had the sedan body to cut from for the floor; he wanted about $2K for a complete floor pan set. I read some of my old entries, too. The one where I said i'd be finished in 18 months was particularly amusing.I guess it takes as long as it takes. Back to work tonight, my wife is going shopping with the girls so I have a full night in the garage. Thanks for the comments, guys.
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11-24-2010 08:53 AM #2
I went back through a bit too as a refresher and man I hate to rub it in, but my car required no patch panels. Just the lower tailpan area had to be cut out, banged out and welded back in since it was hit and filled with filler way back when. Good work plugging along on all that sheetmetal.
I am excited for some more frequent updates now'35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO
Robert
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11-24-2010 05:30 PM #3
Go ahead; rub it in, 35. I've got it coming for thinking I can throw this together as quick as some of my other projects. It's funny how when Mike told me he was giving this to me and I looked at it in the garage I thought,"How in the world can a guy have a 40's 2 door coupe apart and not want to finish it?" Man, doing a car like this is nothing like taking some old beater and throwing in a big engine and a cheapie paint job. Even with starting with what I thought was a decent body; the commitment to get 65 year old sheet metal back in good shape to paint is huge. You definitely learn a whole new set of skills along the way. Looking at it as a whole is overwhelming so I decided to divide the body into quarters and concentrate on 1/4 at a time. I know this is going to take a few months to get all the way around the car and get it right so I'm mentally prepared for slow steady progress.
When we brought this home from the blaster we ran into rain and it started to rust before we got home so I decided to spray the whole thing down with this green rust inhibitor I got from Advance. It did it's job of stopping the rust but the whole car looks like a giant glazed donut so part of the task is sanding all that crap off. I spent about 4 hours tonight sanding 1/4 of the car, finish welded my patch, and ground down several welds from previous patches. A couple questions: I have some All-metal body filler I was thinking of using to smooth out the joints where I did some patching. Can I just use this right on the bare metal or should I wait for the first primer coat and the use filler on top of that? Also, here's a shot of a factory lead joint by the rear window. It looks fine; can I just leave it or does something need to be done with it before top coating?
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11-24-2010 06:08 PM #4
never have had a lot of trouble with the old lead, but I usually grind a bit of it off and start with the Evercoat filler with the fine strand 'glass... Evercoat also makes a product called Metal to Metal that is both air and moisture proof that works good to seal up leaded joints, just a light coat of it though!!!!
Two schools on applying filler, some say use it over bare metal, others say use Epoxy primer first.... I've done it both ways, usually do the Epoxy primer first after sandblasting and lots of cleaning time to seal up the surface of the metal and prevent surface rust from forming....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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11-24-2010 09:06 PM #5
That looks kool falcon..Nice old body you have,Plymouth,that is....Not too much rot in it by the looks of it..Most of the Mopars of that age we have down here are shot now,,rotten in the bottom 6 inches..Nice job,brother..
Micah 6:8
If we aren't supposed to have midnight snacks,,,WHY is there a light in the refrigerator???
Robin.
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11-25-2010 07:14 AM #6
I figured you were talking about the car; my old body needs a lot more work than this does. I think it's beyond saving; lucky for me Alicia loves me anyway.
Somebody asked me on another site why I used a 5.3; here's a video of a car that i read an article about and it convinced me to try a 5.3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qk9uU_3VHT0
Thanks for the advice, Dave. I'll get some of that metal to metal and give it a shot.
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11-26-2010 02:05 PM #7
Spent the day on the trunk; I had several patches that I still has to grind down the welds plus a lot of general cleanup. I also had patches of old undercoating to scape out and I removed the spare tire well and mounting bracket and patched that in.
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11-26-2010 02:06 PM #8
Looks much better, now onto the other quarter panel after I get the patch fully welded.
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11-26-2010 08:52 PM #9
I am not sure if you guys know about this ref for metal shaping.I would think you would given the work I have seen done here.But here is a link of one of the better sites I found devoted to just metal shaping.
http://allmetalshaping.com/
Hope it helps some.Good Bye
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11-27-2010 08:55 AM #10
That's great info, Gary; thanks! I'm going to save that one in my favorites.
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11-27-2010 02:59 PM #11
Looks great falcon." "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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11-27-2010 03:07 PM #12
Looking good Falcon. Keep the pics coming. Mighty fine fab work.70-71 Vietnam Vet, 1959 born again child of God
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11-28-2010 07:38 PM #13
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11-29-2010 07:06 AM #14
Yeah meetmedal has some bad politics going on with a split of the site.Just didn't want to subject you guys to that.Good Bye
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11-29-2010 10:39 AM #15
".......So sanded it all down and resprayed. ......" Been there. done that on a couple of paint jobs over the years. Usually took me a couple of days to get over being mad before I started...
Stude M5 build