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I have a new light, bulb and leads and my pass side interior 1/4 light won't work. Door jamb switch properly activates driver's side. Pass side has power as I put a test light on the fixture so ground must be the problem. After looking at door jamb switch everything looks good. I thought the door switch is the ground for the circuit. What am I missing??
The only thing I can think of is a bad switch or bad light socket. You have power to the socket so we know its getting there. Bulb it goes without saying, you already checked.:3dSMILE:
I thought it might be the door switch? But if it were that would the driver's side be off oalso or could it be just the pass side??? I am ready to use a sledge hammer to settle this.
Swap it to drivers side just to see if it will work there .
I have tried that and it does. I am thinking of getting new door jamd switches maybe that's it???
73 if the switch ligts one it should the other . I have the schematic if this helps .
That's what I thought but when the darn light has juice but doesn't work so where would the ground be off if the door jamb switch is good?? Maybe I will always be wondering this as my wife yells" Are you still F#@*&^^% with that light"!
LOL I hate wiring after looking seperate switch for left and right ground may be bad.
I see BLUESTANG you want me to read this until my eyes are crossed and crooked and then go crazy rewiring. I look at it and still can't see whre the problem could be? Oh I'm Polish so that probably doesn't help. Thanks for the drawing.
I will spend the big 28-30 bucks and replace both. That will show that damn car and if it still doesn't work well, it might be a conversation peice.
73 run a ground to metal right off the plug on ground side with the hot plugged in if it lights the ground is corroded . then just run a new ground.
lets see if it blows up
If I took the ground lead of of the new light and ran it to the frame and the light still doesn"t work then what? Does the ground have to run all the way back to the switch to function properly or can I temporarily ground it to the frame for a test.
The schematic shows a body ground right off the light . It.s not to the switch at all . Since you have power in the line a test with the ground will most likely show a fault there . I would bet the light will work if you run a different ground wire .
Ok now we're getting somewhere. So if I make nice ground from the ground lead off the light to the body it should work right? If not who knows what the wires are doing inside the panel. Don't feel like ripping it all apart.
Also why did some "self-proclaimed" ford guru tell me that the lights are grounded in the door switches? Have you ever heard of that?
I believe it will correct your problem . Give it quick check and light up . We got lucky since they just started reproducing these lamps a few years ago along with others like map and switches for them .
Some may have been i'm not really a pro myself . I have had a car where the switch was falling out but lamp still worked.
I'll let you know what happens. I need a 67 GT500 dual quad intake. Who's got one cheap? I know nobody.
I'll keep a ear to the club members a few are Shelby owners .
No we don't want them anything with a snake on it goes up, up and away on price. Thanks.
Did you cure your light problem? From what I see on the diagram,each light should have a 2 wire pigtail feeding it. If you jumper both wires,1 grd and 1 power it should work,if not the fault is in the lamp. On the other side of the same connecter you unplugged to test the lamp, you should have power on one pin switched by the door jam switch,and the other pin a ground. If they both test good,youv'e got a problem in the connector itself,which you can try cleaning, repacing, or just cut it out and splice the wires direct. Hope this helps you. Hank
Hank when you say jumper both wires do you mean splice all together to test for the light or run a separate lead from ground lead on light o the frame and see if it works. Sorry Not, I repeat, Not an electrician. Thanks
He knows the light works he placed it on drivers side .
73 he means a seperate jumper like i mentioned to test your ground since you have power in that lead to the light on passenger side .
Exactly, if you know you've got 12v at that plug,check the ground. Check the plug thoroughly as it only takes one strand of copper to carry enough amperage to light a test light,but won't carry enough to light your courtesy light. If you've got no ground,make a new one,there's probably at least 3 sheet metal screws into the chassis itself within a foot of your light. Hank
Hang in there, these electrical problems will drive you crazy, but if you follow these guys advice, you'll get the bugger in the end!:D
So 73 did you try anything and what was the outcome . Did a new ground fire the light up .