Thread: Mounting Radiator

Tweet

Just wondering how you mount the radiator. Do you need the spring bolts??

Sean

Good question, my Son and I just had this discussion about his car. He is going to use the spring bolts, but I have always just used a fat rubber fender washer under each side between the radiator and frame. My theory is, if you have no frame flex in that area semi-solidly mounting it is ok.

It will be interesting to see what others think. Good thread.

Don

SGO70,
I agree with Don, make your chassis rigid and you will have know problems. One other thing I have learned is I mount the radiator off the sides instead of the bottom. By using 4 mounting points instead of 2 it spreads the vibration loads over a larger area. If you look at my roadster build you can see the frame work that I use to mount it.
Ken

The spring system was used before we had the roads we enjoy today. Look at modern radiator mounting systems to answer your question.

The main thing about mounting an radiator is to let it sit on its own weight, cuchioned somewhat, and have the ability to flex independedly from the frame
If your mount it hard or by more than 3 points , it will always have stress introduced with frame bumps or twists----let it float!!!!

I originally had mine bolted in with good ARP bolting but since it is an aftermarket chassis (TCI) have my concerns as to its' rigidity. I have the spring bolts there now - but sure would prefer just some rubber pads and back to my ARP's assuming I can still find some in my bolt supply.

It just kinda puzzled me to mount them on the springs, I thought if you were driving at highway speeds it would be pushing a lot of air. Wouldn't the flex would actually be hard on the mounts? I thought if I mount it to the shell on the side mounts and then mount the grill shell solid the shell would take the flexing or force from the air if any. Or am I crazy??

Sean

We forgot to tell you one important aspect..........you don't mount the radiator solely by the base, you also need some support rods. Either run one on each side from the top section of the radiator to the firewall, or on an angle down to the frame. You need to fab up something that will clear your engine but act as a support for the top of the radiator.

I had to make my rods intersect the radiator about mid way up and go to the firewall. Every car is different.

Don

I used spring mounts and 3/16 rubber pad underneath. It's a good idea to have some damping particularly when using the newwer aluminum rads due to fatigue issues with the mount weld areas. at the radiator (when applicable).

Kitz

I think I knew that but wasn't considering it . Sometimes I miss things, that explains the top mount bracket.

Sean

Go look at about anything OEM---the radiators mostly just set in a rubber cuchion held by a type of channel strip running across the front

I have removed repaired and reinstalled hundreds of radiators.many older cars and trucks were directly bolted to the car by the radiator straps. never seen any problems due to twisting in the mount unless due to an accident.ford trucks and jeeps were all mounted ridgedly in the trucks in the 60s and most of the 70s

This is a good thread! One more thing to think about! Thanks for posting this!

"37 Caddy" may want to consider using rubber grommets with metal sleeves where each flange mounting bolt is located. The sleeve will keep the bolt from crushing the rubber insulator. Just a thought. Don't get many!

Billsbird's post described damage that is inevitable with aluminum if mounted too rigidly. Aluminum will fatigue and eventually crack when mounted this way and much sooner that other metals. The '32 Ford frames are going to flex, some more than others. '32 Ford aluminum radiator owners should be prepared to possibly find what Billsbird found. Henry didn't help things when he hung the grill and shell as well as the hood on the radiator! He sure built a beautiful car though!