For you concrete and wood guys.....

I need to build a hoist to work with my chassis table for setting engines in and out of cars I'm building... I want to use a round tube post mounted on a pivot top and bottom with a truss braced I-Beam with electric winch rolling on this track.
My question is this... My garage floor is just a slab, seems to be about 6" thick in the area where the post will be mounted.... How big and what kind of fasteners should I use to secure it to the floor?
The ceiling is 2x4 on 24 in. centers... What is a good way to beef it up and a good method for securing the top of the post to it?

About the heaviest I'll be lifting with it is around 800 pounds...

Sounds like you'll be pulling some 460's:)

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Originally Posted by stovens

Sounds like you'll be pulling some 460's:)

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Well, I have a couple projects coming up that are going to require a lot of fitting, and a lot of engine in and out stuff.......

You can use 5/8 or 3/4 althread epoxied in the floor, that`s what we use for hurricane tie downs here, they sell the epoxy at the depot, it will bust the concrete before it pulls out. redheads work too. Im not quit sure what your going for, if you could post a sketch, ill tell you how to secure it good.

Do you mean a single post mounted on the concrete floor at the bottom, tied to the floor joists at the top, with a cantilevered gantry track for your rolling hoist motor?

I don't know how to do sketches on here, just a 4" round post from floor to ceiling, then a 4" I-Beam T'd off of the round post right at the ceiling that will extend out over the car and have an electric winch on rollers running on the I-beam that can move back and forth over the car.....

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Do you mean a single post mounted on the concrete floor at the bottom, tied to the floor joists at the top, with a cantilevered gantry track for your rolling hoist motor?

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Yup, that would be it Brian.... You just say it a lot better!!!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Yup, that would be it Brian.... You just say it a lot better!!!!!!!!

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I've had practice---43 years of techno babble to customers!!!!! If I was doing it, I would use at least a 1/2" thick x 18" diameter plate on the bottom to distribute the load over a large area---Ya don't want a "point load" to fracture your concrete pad. As long as you are tying into the floor joists overhead, you can get away with 6 equally spaced 1/2" diameter fasteners, epoxied into the pad to the full depth of the pad. Up top I would use a 2" x 10" or a 2" x 12" and make it about 8 to 10 foot long, run it at 90 degees to your joists, and tie into every joist with it. Put a 3/8" plate 10" square welded to the top of the pipe and bolt it to the 2 x 10 with eight 3/8" diameter bolts. Use a 4" deep I-beam for the swinging gantry, with the trusswork on top of it, and where it ties into the pipe, put 2 rollers on it with the roller axis vertically aligned so that with a load suspended on it it will roll around the main support pipe and not bind.

I have a 2 post lift that calls for (7) 3/4 X 4 inch redheads per side. The lift guy said to drill all the way thru the concrete incase one of the bolts broke off you could hammer it all the way down out off the way.
BradC

Thanks Brian and Brad... Just getting too old to wrestle stuff in and out using the cherry picker when the car is on the table......

Yep, brian about covered it!! Redheads work ok, but the problem with them is they tend to pull out alot before the wedge system starts to work, with him having a slab depth of around 6" he runs the possibility of only getting 2-3" grab from the bolt. That`s where the epoxy works better, cause you are getting full depth grab.

When I get things cleared out in the garage so I can get some pics, I'll do that and put them up there before I actually attach anything permanently.... I know how I want the post and I-beam with the electric winch to work.... but if it's not anchored right it won't really matter. So, I guess this one can be tabled until such time as I can actually find the chassis table again!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Dave thats why I bought the lift, I'm to old to lay on the floor to work ( I keep falling asleep when I lay on the floor)
BradC

Attachment 29776

Attachment 29777

Attachment 29778 Dave is this what your wanting, this is a two ton with a 3/4 in four foot base 6 1 in. anchor bolts in 1 ft. concrete and 3/16 ths gussets on a 1 ft. pole with a 8in.x4in. walking beam. jonathan

I read Brian's post and fully agree with what he said, and that's assuming that the concrete is capable of that load - I know my garage doesn't have that good of a floor.

In my garage I would be concerned with the quality of the floor concrete if I hadn't seen it poured myself and know for sure the thickness and what lies under it as far as underlayment, what strength concrete was used by the contractor and how well it was rebarred, vibrated and floated. A fully dressed out iron headed and intaked 460 with a C6 has to weigh in at over 1000 pounds. Then hang that monster at the end of a 4-6 foot or longer lever,thats 8-10 feet high and has a 100# electric hoist.......:eek: Of course, I'm one of those folks that have the idea that when nailing two pieces of wood together with two nails will work fine, will always go back and add 4-5 more, JIC:LOL:

I'll never have a complete engine on the hoist, just a dummy block and heads would be the most....

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I'll never have a complete engine on the hoist, just a dummy block and heads would be the most....

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....that is, until you forget and do have one hangin' there. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

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Originally Posted by IC2

....that is, until you forget and do have one hangin' there. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

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No, it's for the chassis table, no reason to ever put a done engine on there.
The car always gets blown apart before it comes off the table anyway...

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

No, it's for the chassis table, no reason to ever put a done engine on there.
The car always gets blown apart before it comes off the table anyway...

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OK - you've convinced me:whacked:

(I just know my history - if it looks like it should work for moving a blivit ...........:HMMM: )

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Blivit

If you use Brian's guidance, you won't have a problem - even if you have a plain old residential garage floor. Tying the column to the ceiling is the key, since it eliminates most of the "lever." There's little or any torque on the foot plate. Without the ceiling tie, you would have the effect of a giant pry-bar trying to pull the bolts opposite the load out of the floor.

With the ceiling tie, about what you end up with is a fairly spread out vertical load on the floor. Think of it as a big jack stand. It would be much less of a load than one corner of a 4,000 lb. truck sitting on four jackstands.

Bottom line - the ceiling tie takes care of the lateral load. The floor takes care of the vertical load. That's a bit simplified, but it's pretty accurate.