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I have access to a "Home Depot" Lincoln wire feed welder. Its a 220v with no sheilding gas on it. Can I use this for to tack in some new floorpans and maybe fill some small holes in the fenders (I am removing some chrome trim that I do not want to replace)?
Any recommendations on what type of wire works best in these things?
As you may notice, I don't know a whole lot about welding, but am a quick learner.
TIA guys!
I may be wrong, and others can correct me if I am; but, for body panels and thinner stock items you'll want to use a different system than flux core (without shielding gas). I don't think that you'll be very happy with the results if you try to weld holes in your fenders up with the flux core. It's for thicker stock and you'll just end up making bigger holes out of the holes you already have.
What I would suggest doing is get a conversion kit for the welder. Unless it's not yours that is......
Anyway, my Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 100 originally came as a flux core system; but, I bought a conversion kit and a bottle to enable me to weld body panels and it was only about $65.00 for the kit and the bottle of C25 ran me about $60 or $70 if I remember right.
Good Luck with your project,
Dutch
Its my Dad's welder, so maybe I will invest in the upgrade kit...
I would suggest buying the machine with the gas hookup already installed, its cheaper!! I have the lowes model, and its a damn fine machine!! Fluxcore runs too hot for body panels. as for wire, the stuff they sell at the depot works great for what we do, but use the .025 for panels, not the .030 or .035.
Sorry, i did not realize you already have the unit. Buy the kit, its way worth it.
It CAN be done with out the gas, but it SUCKS!! Plus, you mentioned that you don't know much about it, that equals trouble. As others have said, get a gas setup. The welds will be nicer and EASIER!! IF you have the access to a bigger (better) machine, try to use it OR have someone more experienced to do it for you, you'll save time, money and headaches in the long run. I've been welding for alot of years...both as a hobby and professionally...Good luck!
Like Max says its a pain . Getting right feed at temp takes a bit . You can do a overlap easier then a but weld . Patches are easier to finish with a butt .
it will work fine. Not as pretty as a gas shield mig, but it WILL get the job done. One thing to look for, they splatter plenty. You can get some anti-splatter spray ( spray can ) and spray it down first, then the splatter wipes right off.
Something to watch out for: the 'juice' might be on all the time. I know it is with my little campfield housend... easy to flash your eyes that way.
An auto dark hood is very nice. A cheap alternative is a 500 W halogen work light. Put it close to the work, and you can see to aim your torch.
Hi Son...your dad here.. . just thought I'd tell you that I have a Lincoln Weld Pak 155 they have a mig conversion kit for it... K610-2 sells for anywhere from $140-$180 and doesn't include the tank (have to get at the local welding supply shop... You can buy me the conversion if you want... then I'll let you use my welder..... I may talk to the local welding shop to see what they can do to set up a mig conversion for us... just added my new avatar also... dad
Joe... don't know what happenned to my reply but here goes again..
I have a WeldPak 155,, the mig conversion is kit K610-2 goes for approx $150 without the tank,, I'll be checking with the local weld shop to see if there are other options than the conversion kit.. just put up my new avatar.. like it? Dad
I have an older Snap-On 110v/140A welder and I use the CO2 shield gas and all my work is steel so it works very well, I use .023 wire and it works for body panels or patches and heavier stuff or tack welding then use the stick (lincoln 225) for the real heavy stuff. Just my .02 worth. Carl
The flux core wire will work outside in a breeze, the gas will blow away under these conditions. Some won't even work when the blower on the shop furnace is blowing. The gas does a better job, when it works, though.
Solid core with gas - all the way. I'm not sure that I would want to use the splatter spray stuff as it most likely has a silicone base and - you really don't want that stuff anywhere near body work - fish eyes will appear in your expensive new paint if you don't get it all off which is difficult at best. I wont even allow WD-40 near anything I paint. It "hangs" around - you get it on your hands and spread it, it floats forever in your shop's dust.
You can do it but the acid in the flux can eat through the body work and paint. I put a patch panel in my sister's Rambler before it was painted and a year later a rust line came through the paint right where the weld was.
I just got 100 Miller shilded for sure . and works great on body panels and use the arc for other things bigger