Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Well, if you are referring to what circuitry is required to fire the engine, it depends a lot on what brand engine and type of ignition. For example, a Chevy has the solenoid right on the starter whereas a Ford has a remote solenoid, so the wiring would be slightly different.
If you are setting the stand up to only handle one brand engine, essentially you would have a battery with one ground and one positive cable. The ground would go to the engine block and the positive would either go to the center fat stud on the starter (Chevy and most other GM products.) or to the fat connection on the remote solenoid (Ford) If it is a Ford then an additional cable would go from the other fat connection on the solenoid to the only post on the starter.
The ignition switch would have about a 10 gauge wire going from the battery positive to the "batt" post on the switch. Then about a 12 gauge wire would go from the "start" post on the switch to either the small stud to the right of the fat post on the starter (Chevy and most GM) or to the "S" or "start" skinny post on the remote solenoid (Ford) That will complete your starter functions.
For the ignition primary side, you would run about a 12 gauge wire from the "Ign" post on the switch to one of several places, depending on the type of ignition you have. If it is a typical external coil type, you would run this wire to the + post on the coil. Depending on your ignition switch, you may also have to run a wire from the skinny post on the left side of the fat stud on the starter (Chevy and most GM) up to the + post on the coil, and if it is a Ford you would find the "I" or "Ign" skinny post on the solenoid and run a wire from there up to the + post on the coil. If you don't do that you will have no ignition juice during cranking.
This explanation is very general as there are so many variables, but this should get you started.
Don
Denny probably can post a couple of diagrams that will sum it up in two words or less. lol