Could I use my original F1 gauges?

Hey guys, was reading on here after looking at gauge options out there. i really like the look of the original 51' F1 gauges. only problem is now everything in the truck is 12volt. Is there any way to use these gauges and have them be accurate? The guy had the speedometer hooked up. I don't know how accurate it was.

I read on here somebody did a set of 52' gauges by taking the gauges from a 69' ford and swapping face plates, but I looked on ebay and it looks like the 52' had a different cluster than the 51'. I then read about using voltage regulators? if that will work, how do I get the gauges accurate?

Whatever happens I am making a new piece for the dash to replace the whole front of it eliminating the ash tray, glove box, speaker grill and allowing me to line the gauges up with the steering wheel better. If I could use those gauges I would just need a tach (which really I don't NEED, but it would be cool).

any help appreciated. going to a fuel tank in the bed too if that affects getting the fuel gauge to work any. I spoke with classic instruments and a retrofit of the gauges is about 2k. not worth the money when I can get a whole set for 500-900 dollars (depending on all the options and what not).

Red

If you wanted to, yes you could, but the old ammeter won't work with anything more than like 30 amps. you just use voltage reducers. like Ford did from the factory w/ later gauges. only year ( to my knowladge ) Ford used 12v gauges was 1956, after that, they were 6v reduced.

Is the ammeter the one that indicates charge? would it need to show more than 30 amps? I thought in my cars now they normally sit around 14amps charging. How would I make sure they were all accurate and where do I get the senders, the original engine and everything hooked to it are long gone.

thanks man.

Red

Senders can be gotten from Napa. The ammeter does indiate charge, but using 1 underpowered for the job will cause a fire, maby not today, maby not tomorrow, but when the need for the alternator does go full feilding arrives, it will catch fire. to test the gauge accuracy, you need a known good gauge to compare to. water temp gauge is mechanicle most likely, so you just need to get water to the gauge w/ hose and fittings. gas gauge sender is standard early Ford, jut tell Napa guys, '51 Ford, they'll get you the right 1.

cool. I wonder if there were any other years of ford that used an ammeter of the same sweep so I could just swap out that part? I am going to have to get the gauges out of there so I can take a closer look at them.

Red

probably any 60's Ford F100 w/ a alternator will work

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dago Red

Is the ammeter the one that indicates charge? would it need to show more than 30 amps? I thought in my cars now they normally sit around 14amps charging. How would I make sure they were all accurate and where do I get the senders, the original engine and everything hooked to it are long gone.

thanks man.

Red

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All the newer cars have voltage gauges... The 14 volt reading you refer to indicates the alternator is charging at 14 volts, not amps.... As a minimum, an alternator that will power up a car today is going to be at least 70 Amps.... The truck came with a generator, not near the same output as an alternator.

I've actually done a few 51-2 F1 thru F6s.

For fuel, temp guages and oil pressure guages a 6-12 volt reducer (a big resistor that as far as I know are still available) will allow them to to read correctly.

The Amp gauge is a non-issue. On these trucks the current does not pass THRU the guage. The main feed wire passes thru a loop in the back of the guage. The needle reads through induction. At worst during a high draw situation the guage would peg but it will not burn out or be hurt. I was running a 100 Amp Alternator on this truck with a ton of electrics to include a winch and parallel batteries with no problems.

I would suggest a complete re-wire if you have not already done so. The 56 year old cloth covered wiring is a fire waiting to happen.

Senders used to be available thru NAPA, but anyone specilizing in old trucks should be able to get them. Carpenters might have them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

All the newer cars have voltage gauges... The 14 volt reading you refer to indicates the alternator is charging at 14 volts, not amps.... As a minimum, an alternator that will power up a car today is going to be at least 70 Amps.... The truck came with a generator, not near the same output as an alternator.

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alternators will make what they need to keep up to the draw, average is about 14- 30 amps after a few min's running ( will always kick a little more cold cause of crank up recovery and fast idle ). headlights, radio heater ect... all will make a diffrence of course. Alternators today, rarely go above 50% of there capacity, when they do, it's usally due to a bad battery, going above 50% on any alt is actually hard on the alternator