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Thread: How am I going to prep this body for paint?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    mooneye777's Avatar
    mooneye777 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Feb 2004
    Location
    dayton
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1948 ford anglia
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    that is a tricky question depending on who you ask. i asked the same question a couple years back. and i got many different answers, i think it all depends on who you ask. i know that if you have it blasted it should be a very qualified blaster. with a lot of experience in doing cars primarily., so they do not get it too hot and warp the shell. most restorers ive talked to prefer dipping over anything else, that way they know what they are getting into with no surprises later. my anglia dipping quote was 2200.00 in indiana.


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  2. #2
    TooMany2count's Avatar
    TooMany2count is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2003
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    Cahokia
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Chevy 1ton Bus
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    Quote Originally Posted by mooneye777
    my anglia dipping quote was 2200.00 in indiana.
    I was quoted under $1000 to do Large Marge's body & to do everything would of been under $1500. I guess it good to be in the midwest..

    Personally I'd dip it........joe
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  3. #3
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 47 inderweed
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    hey joe, i just tipped toed thru large marge . cool truck guy. i have a 41 ford 5 ton to build a motor home with someday.

  4. #4
    Troglodyte's Avatar
    Troglodyte is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Chev Convert, 62 Stude GT Hawk, 64 Ve
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    Had a buddy wh owned a stripping/dipping biz here in Tacoma area.......as I remember from helping him some days........if it is a car you dont expect to keep very long......dip it. The main problem we ran into, is nomatter how well you thought you cleaned to solution out, you always had some that hid behind the welds, braces etc...........so unless you dipped it in a tank of etching primer with electrodes on body....forget about getting all solution out........then the rust comes back in those spots.

  5. #5
    maddddog is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    woodland hills Ca
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chevy Truck
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    Thanks for all your input, it is a big help.

    This is what I am doing.
    I used 3M scotchbrite wheels on a die grinder and took almost all the rust off. No way to get in between welds and into closed areas, but I got all the exposed rust, inside and out of the body. 4 days with the compressor running constant. I am pretty happy with the results and very happy with the condition of the body. I know every inch of it now and have started the body work.

    At some point soon I will be using one of the phosporic acid metal converters on every surface. With a tricky little spray hose I am going to get as much of the hidden areas as I can and then call it good.

    Then I will prime it with an epoxy primer and that should be an excelent, not perfect, but an excelent base for a decent paint job (or at least primer) for several years.

    Any recommendations on the rust converters?

    The picture of the louvers shows one done and the other in its original "30 years in a backyard" patina.
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