hole saw for metal ????

im looking intofinding GOOD hole saws for making holes in sheet metal , i purchased a hole saw for metal and wood and the metal just laughed at me as i tried to use it against it in my drill press ...need help here :whacked:

Lenox bi-metal holesaws.

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...htm?E+coastest

Bosch bi-metal holesaws:

http://www.boschtools.com/accessorie...y.htm?H=176227

Rigid bi-metal holesaws

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Hole-Saws

I use Ridgid brand bimetal holesaws, and really like them. Home Depot is carrying them now. I recently bought a kit they have that gives you two mandrels and probably 10 of the most popular sizes, and it is holding up very well, and we punch lots of holes in stuff up to 3/8 thick.

Also, make sure your speed on the drill press is adjusted properly.

Don

If you're drilling sheet metal, the piece needs to be backed by a solid piece of wood. Use cutting oil and go slow.

I've had good luck on sheet metal by drilling the pilot hole first with 1/4" bit.
I replace the bit in the hole saw with a solid 1/4" shaft. I used a old screw driver shank since it's hardened.

As for brand, I can't remember and I'm at work so I'll have to check later. I know they are the ones with the non-removable shank(mandrel). I don't think they're bimetal, but that's the only kind I can get locally.

The lowest speed on my drill press is 200 RPM and I've had good results on thick stuff at that speed(with lots of oil).

Either Milwaukee or Lenox work good for me.

Starratt, Milwaukee and Ridgid are good ones.

I think Milwaukee makes the Starratt hole saws, the arbors are identical.

Used to buy Milwaukee's at Orchard Supply Hardware.

Run low speed, use the proper cutting oil WD40 is ideal for aluminum and in fact is preferred by many machinists.

Hotrod46's suggestion to use a blank pilot hole looks like a good one.
Haven't tried it yet, but I will.

One thing that will help - especially in aluminum - is to lay out the cut so you can drill three equally spaced 1/4" or so holes just inside the cut line.
The hole saw should cross the edge of the drilled holes.
The drilled holes give the cuttings a place to escape to and you'll find the hole saw doesn't load up with aluminum so bad.

I've cut a bunch of 18 gage (.063) stainless for dash panels with hole saws.
Tough as the stainless is, the hole saws used are still sharp.

Stay away from Black & Decker hole saws.
They take a different arbor and don't cut as accurate a hole as the abovementioned brands.
They seem to be for wood only . . . although if nowadays the B&D hole saws indicate they are bi-metal they may work ok.

To be fair I have to mention that I cut four 1" hole sawed holes in a .120 thick frame rail with a B&D hole saw using 30 wt for cutting oil and it did ok.
Even so, I find other brands cut more accurate holes in the larger instrument panel sizes.

I know Lenox makes some really good hacksaw blades too. On the bandsaw I have been using Sterrit, and get good life out of those.

Don

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I replace the bit in the hole saw with a solid 1/4" shaft. I used a old screw driver shank since it's hardened.

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I had forgotten about that. It's a great idea. It keeps the flutes from the drill bit from hogging out the pilothole. It works especially well if you're not using a drill press with the work clamped down.

i bought the lenox last night , the even how slow i go and even use a thick chunk of wood backin it with some oil it just scares the metal it wont punch threw it is getting frusterating

finally got the holes drilled im boxing in my 32 frame and the first hole saw i used must have been a dud ......the others cut like a hot knife thru butter ..ill post pics of my progress ..thanks for the replies

on thin steel or alum up to 16 -ga i use knockout punches

Top off the 9th, Bases loaded, Maccarthy steps into the box and here comes the pitch, it's a fast ball down the middle and (CRACK!) he drives it out of the park. I was wondering when somebody was gonna bring knockout punches to the discussion. So clean and easy to do. Unfortunately, you won't learn new cuss words because the hole saw just ripped the piece or spin around into your hand causing mayheim. Guys, they are a touch pricey but it takes forever to wear them out. Nice thing is, if you do wear the punches out, the local electrical supply store has 99% of them in stock.

i pick up mine up at a surplus store i should have pickup all of them up. i did get a hand full very handy. could look on e-bay for them mine are greenlee s work great on a fire wall or any painted panel

Our Electrical supply houses around here compete heavily so it's very cool to walk in and pick up what you want for more than reasonable prices. We must have a gozillion places here to compete. Yes, Greenlee is my favorite, no hassles reliability and quality stuff.