Ring gear damage pics

Heres the pics....:( ...I have since called the previouse owner and confirmed he was actually driving it in town back and forth to work for a while,probably 5-7 miles round trip.He said he did not notice any funny sounds or feel anything out of the ordinary,he was going to do the same thing as I was ,which was change fluids and start driving regularly.I have done reverse and forward burn outs with it before all the work started and did not notice any sign of it.
The second pic is the carrier scarring from the missing tooth ,unless they are made this way?To say the least this was big disapointment at this stage ,because of funding schedules,I used all of my funds for this stage and was preparing for some shake down runs ,adjustments and the little things untill the next stage was saved for.:(
I am going to clean it all out real good with brake clean to flush all the tiny rust particles and green scotch bright for the surface rust.....it looks bad ,but the rust removes with a few scrapes of the finger nail.Also if you look at the second tooth to the right you can see the rust on the very corner of the tooth where there is no pinion engagement........I think that very little of the actual load surface is gone..?

Thnx,Denny
So if understand correctly ,its the pinion sliding backward into the carrier carving those uniform marks in the center?Could you elaborate some more on this ?
I did a search using variations gear miter /differential/...but came up with very little.

Since you live in SOCAL you could go to Ecology and Pick Your Parts and
buy a complete 9" for less that it would cost to fix that one. Then you would
have a pumpkin style, may measure carefully and get a little narrower one
for bigger rear wheel spacing
good luck, Ron:whacked:

Ok ,it stands out now when you circled the wear marks,I will put some grease or something on there to determine where its at now.
There is no forward or backward movement of the pinion at this time ,...so maybe its been reset?When I was cleaning it the pinion was leaving marks in the middle ,between the two wear patterns that you circled.
So it looks to be shaping up something like this...The outer wear pattern is probably where it was from the factory,the crush sleeve or shims started wearing allowing the pinion to creep backwards or closer to the inside of the ring causing the case damage and also breaking the tooth off,Once I establish that the current pinion setting is in the center and correct place,I can then say the pinion depth has been reset since failure,which is likely since the inner wear pattern is starting to rust.......

I wouldn't waste anytime on that set Shawn, not much there worth fixing....:CRY: :CRY: :CRY:

I have done some more reading now and think I have a better understanding of the operation and relation of the pinion the the ring.
You were correct Denny the ring has 2 wear patterns . The nut that holds the yoke on takes all the slack up in the pinion bearings and provides preload......well the nut was only torqued to the 15 inch pound spec for rotational resistance which left the lock washer not completely compressed resulting in the pinion moving in and out under load compressing and uncompressing the lock washer which allows the pinion to be able to creep back into the case and leave those nasty gouges on the carrier and produce the tooth breaking wear pattern to the inside of the ring.

Now that I know the what when where and why and how.I need to know how to adjust the pinion in and out in the case.All the reading I have done today suggests there are 2 methods used to adjust pinion depth ,......shims behind the tapered bearing race between the case and race.The other is shimming between the bearing and pinion gear behind the pressed on rear pinion bearing on the pinion shaft.

It appears either method will allow me the increase the pinion depth into the case or farther away from the inner part of the ring.Where does the slack go ,....just more threads showing on the yoke nut ?
It appears after I learn this last bit of info that I will be able to dissasemble the rear and re-install new gears.The governing factor on the pinion depth is miter or gear engagement pattern as determined by a marking compound.....the exspensive tool is to only save the time of taking it back out and adding or reducing the number of shims over and over and over ....well I have nothing but time and no 200 bucks for a 1 time specialty tool.
Dave the set is wasted ,but operational,I need to move this thing on and off of a trailer to weigh it and also move it in the driveway under its own power,I figure use this one to learn in case of mistake,then before any road voyages take it back apart after I understand how to do it with destoying anything and install a new ring and pinion and bearings if needed!!

Thnx ,Denny ,I will get started on it first thing in the mourning!!!!I can afford new bearings,then I am thinkin the new ring and pinion is only 120 bucks away now:LOL: Then I also noticed a shim pack that eliminates the crush sleeve.This seems like a good idea? Also after tryin to cypher the grease marks ,I think 4 bucks is cheap price to pay for marking compound:LOL:
Thnx again!!!

Ok ,here we go......Got it all apart and here is what I discovered.The rear bearing race was not seated,there is no crush sleeve and the bearings were shot ,massive metal imbeading of the face of the bearing.
Here is the good news ,good ol step dad had a massive bearing puller to pull the rear pinion bearing right off and press in and out the old races.
I am going to the store monday to get the new bearing and races get it all back together and put the gear marking compound on there and see what I have:D The axels had some surface rust on them but the splines and bearing surface looked preety good for 40 year old axels.The bad news is the inside of the axel housings are full of yuk and muk.I am going to have to clean all of that out and flush ,flush,flush to get it clean inside.
i am going to post some pics soon tonight on the progress:)
Thnx

Pics!!!:LOL:

More pics:3dSMILE: Its got me thinkin 4.88 /5.56 I could probably pull the front wheels with my 305 !!!:LOL: **)

I full turn of the wheel gets 2 revolutions of the drive shaft...:LOL: Thats what I thought at first 2.06:LOL: But its has 11 pinion and 41 ring which comes out to 3.72.333333333333333333333333333:1 ,Which the calculator says is 127 mph at 5500 rpm. Which is way faster than I want to pilot that brick!!!!
I was doing some reading and the charts say to put the cruze {in my case 65 mph speed limit}at the max torque rpm ,which is 3500 for the street and use that to calculate the rear gear,Which at 1:1 in drive at 65 mph for 3500 rpm is about 4.81:1.:CRY:for a 30 inch tire or 23 inch tall tire with current gear...lol!!http://www.wallaceracing.com/calcrgr.php
For the strip it said to input the max hp rpm for gears on the strip.
I think that is a little much,it must be for max performance ,....not max economy?Maybe a good set of 4.11:1 rear gears would be a good compromise between economy and max performance?:D
I hope the local parts house has these bearings...online they were about 20 bucks apiece for good usa timikin bearins of this style and seemed to be used in most rear ends ,it listed ford ,gm,chrysler /mopar and jeep as using this basic bearing!!!
Bearings and marking die to be purchased monday and hopefully there will be some progress!!!....more pics too!
You notice where the back of the pinion was ground away from rubbing the carrier:LOL: :LOL: I could have seen the disaster that would have resulted in the first big smoke show ,that would have impressed them all!!!:CRY: :LOL:


!!!!!edit!!!!! New plan ,changing to a new ring and pinion gear.....see other thread "opinions"