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Thread: is this going to work?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'm a fuseaholic, think I'd add an inline between the switch and the pump!!! Other then that, sounds kewl to me....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    I'm a fuseaholic, think I'd add an inline between the switch and the pump!!! Other then that, sounds kewl to me....
    the dual fuel pump relay I'm looking to get has a 30A breaker included for each high current circut, should I also get a 10A fuse and holder? because the pump is only supposto draw 5A.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #3
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167
    the dual fuel pump relay I'm looking to get has a 30A breaker included for each high current circut, should I also get a 10A fuse and holder? because the pump is only supposto draw 5A.
    Yup, that's what I would do.... An extra fuse is cheap compared to the cost of not having one where it should have been if things go wrong!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  4. #4
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    Yup, that's what I would do.... An extra fuse is cheap compared to the cost of not having one where it should have been if things go wrong!!!!!
    in our area it's somthing like 80% of vehicle fires are electrical related, and mostly kids with there huge boom box 'Systems' wiring things str8 to the battery with no fuses, but I don't want my car to be a part of that percentage... I'll wire it safe.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  5. #5
    kitz's Avatar
    kitz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I also think an electric fuel pump is good to think about using for anti-theft purposes. Like a toggle hidden up under the dash.

    Kitz
    Jon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400

  6. #6
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    You should be able to switch on about 100 relays with one remote wire ,.....I am not 1000 percent shure but I think its in the mili amps to throw the pole on a relay? I have 2 relays on one switching wire ....I guess I could stick the fluke meter on there and see what 2 relays draw on the remote switching wire.
    And like dave said fuses every where,what I did was to put one of those huge bladed fuses right at the main power up at the horn relay and the fuse is about 2 inches away from the battery for safety,If all the fuses under the dash do not blow the big bladed fuse powers all of the truck up,with it out there is power no where.Soo far I have been able to get by with a 50 amp fuse in there for all the power on the vehichle.
    Last edited by shawnlee28; 03-15-2007 at 09:19 AM.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

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