Thread: 110 MIG welder advice

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Yeah, the funny thing is, we wanted one for years, finally bought a ThermoDynamics, and after a couple of times never used it again. It has sat that way for about two years. Just recently I started using it, one time to cut out my driveshaft hoops on the T, and last week to do some notching on the base I had to build for my air compressor stand. Thing works great, and I see that I will be using it a lot more in the future, instead of my trusty cutting torch.

Only thing is, these rascals throw some sparks. I've got three burns on the top of my right foot where molten steel went down my sock, and I couldn't get my shoe off fast enough. Guess you are supposed to wear more than tennis shoes and just shorts when welding and cutting.

I have no idea why we haven't used it more, it makes short work of even the 1/4 inch plate I was cutting. I agree with you Charlie about how good they are, and the cut is much neater than the torch.

Don

Little or no slag and whats there comes right off no warped panels long cuts I clamp a pc of l iron down and it cuts streight and almost as fast as you move it. I think you may want to invest in some LONG pants and HEAVIER shoes I think the worst is hearing the hot sparks roling around in your ear

I use a Miller251 mig welder with a tweco 300 amp gun.

I know where this welder can be purchased for like $1800 if I remember right.. Place is in Ohio and the guy sells them on ebay.

Its a good deal..

Learn to weld with .035 wire on heavy steel.. 17.5 to 18 volts @ 220 IPM or so.. once you can weld at that, start practicing thinner and lower power welding.

Stick with Miller or Lincoln for welders. Hobart is ok.. Miller is the best and most widely stocked.. Easy to find parts.

I have a little Lincoln 110v wire welder and am well satisfied with the way it works. The flux-cored wire welds good outside, when my neighbor's big Miller sputters out from the breeze blowing the gas away. Works on 10 ga. and less, any thicker go for the buzz box.

I have the Lincoln Weldpak 100 - 115v . 10 years old never had a problem . It can weld up to 1/4 inch with multi pass . Cost about $400 for the new Weldpak 140 now great for the garage .

If your building on car every day for a living then i would suggest the 220v Mig or if you just have the $ to have it .

Ive pushed mine way over duty cycle alot and it has never quit. Great tool for the money. Most my experience welding you run a bead stop clean it check you work then start again. Duty cycle fits right in.

For butt welding i did have to learn with it im running the .030 flux core . I think the .023 wire with the bottle would have givin me quicker results. I havent converted yet this is my second car and sheet metal work is limited here.

I too have a Lincoln 120V unit - and it works great for anything up to ~3/16. For body work it is fine. I do wish that I had gotten one with an infinitely variable arc output(the next size up) though as occasionally one setting is too low and the next is too high. Had $$$ been no object, the 220V would have been the way to go. BUT, you do not have the same level of portability. I help out friends occasionally that do not have a ready source of 220V in their garages. The best of all worlds; a 120V for little stuff and a honkin' big 220V for everything else. But, the source of all evils, $$$ is a factor.

Whatever you get, for a few bucks more, stay with the major brands for parts and service: Lincoln, Hobart, Miller just to name some of the most popular. HF, nah - they'll change their Chinese supplier and if you need parts in 2-3 years, lotsa luck - it's then scrap iron !!

Ireland very true the fine tune is like whip cream on the pie .