Why do my batteries leak?

I have a slammed 426 hemi-powered '96 dodge ram (actually its a bone stock 318 :rolleyes: I can dream though...) and every battery I have ever put in that thing has leaked and corroded. One time the alternator and battery went at the same time (one took out the other), two other times I had a cell or cells go bad. So I am on battery #4 or #5 in ten years. Every one leaked. The system charges around 14.2 with the engine running. Other than the corrosion and short battery life, I dont see any other problems. Normal Bv is around 12-12.5 volts and load tests good (not excellent, but good)

I just went to remove the current battery to install in my car temporarily and noticed it seemed to be venting slightly as I was pouring water/baking soda over it to remove the corrosion. I'm sure the venting and corrosion go hand in hand.

Could this be a problem of cheap batteries or symptomatic of a problem with my truck?

Well, one thing you can do is cover the battery connections in grease if that is where you are getting a lot of your corrosion from. If the battery is boiling up through the top, (ie not a maintenance free battery) you could be overcharging it. When the truck is turned off after running for a while can you hear the battery bubbling?

Edit: Oh also, did this start after you replaced the OEM battery or did it do it as well? The reason I ask is that dis-similar metals are a big cause of corrosion and if the type of metal used on your battery posts is different than that of the battery cables/terminal lug that screws into the post, this will cause corrosion as well.

Cheers,
Dutch

At 14.2 the charging voltage is well within the proper range (13.6 to 14.4 volts) But with the engine at a higher rpm is it still within range? How full are you keeping the batteries? Should be able to look in the cells and see a 'split' or open groove up the area where the cap pushes in, the battery acid should be up to the bottom of the split leaving a 5/8th or 3/4 inch, or there about, space at the top of the battery for the acid to expand. The acid itself really dosen't expand, but with the bubbles created when charging, the acid can, and will get carried up and out the vent if it's to full. I can see one, or maybe two batteries being bad or questionable, but not a whole string of them. If it's an electrical problem, it's going to be one of those weird and simple things that you wonder why you didn't see it it sooner. Sorry, I'm out of ideas!

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Originally Posted by Firechicken

Well, one thing you can do is cover the battery connections in grease if that is where you are getting a lot of your corrosion from. If the battery is boiling up through the top, (ie not a maintenance free battery) you could be overcharging it. When the truck is turned off after running for a while can you hear the battery bubbling?

Edit: Oh also, did this start after you replaced the OEM battery or did it do it as well? The reason I ask is that dis-similar metals are a big cause of corrosion and if the type of metal used on your battery posts is different than that of the battery cables/terminal lug that screws into the post, this will cause corrosion as well.

Cheers,
Dutch

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Thanks for the response guys.

Dutch,
I tried the grease and it still comes through. Yes I can sometimes hear it bubbling when I shut it off. I wish I could remember whether or not the OEM battery did it. However I can say that I have been using the same replacement brand ever since. Posts (top mount) and clamps are both lead with the clamp bolt/nut which is steel. I dont think that is causing it though.
It's seeping over from out of the caps. I thought this was supposed to be a maintenance free battery (??). It says "NEVER ADD WATER" on top. What exactly makes one "maintenance free" ?

Sniper,
I have never had the caps off to look in (see maintenance free comment above). Charging voltage stays the same at higher rpm's... I agree on the bubbling but what could cause the bubbling and subsequent acid release if it's not overcharging???

Friend mentioned getting a "sealed" battery and ditching this one ?? :confused:

Are you using a battery hold down to keep the battery from moving/vibrating? Have you used batteries from the same MANUFACTURER each time?

This problem is pretty common on the 74-78 Mustang IIs, and the main reason is that the battery is located in a high heat area. The factory even ran plastic ducting from the core support to the battery in an attempt to help wiht the problem.....which really didn;t do much good. The acids fumes would eventually take the paint off the underside of the hood over the battery.

The only real cure I have found is replacing the battery with an Optima battery.

I can't say what has been happening for the last ten years, but I am pretty sure I know why your battery is acting funky **) this time. Your MOPAR battery was ashamed about going into that chevy......... so it threw up. :D :D :D

It's either getting to hot from under the hood heat or overcharging...

Yeah if it's boiling out from under the caps, it's over-charging, over-heating or both. Shoulda' bought a Chevy....:LOL:

yeah, have the alt load amp tested with a VAT 40 at an auto shop ( if you don't have 1 ), all that is needed is hooking up vat 40 pos and neg leads up to batt, then induction clip to the alt output wire, run engine, with lights and heater on, and make shure it's within spec there, should be 45 amps at most, for most vehicles. could then revv it up, see if it gets higher, then keep it about 2500 RPM and induce a load of the alt rating, to verify it is a good alt.

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Originally Posted by Firechicken

Yeah if it's boiling out from under the caps, it's over-charging, over-heating or both. Shoulda' bought a Chevy....:LOL:

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I have a three chevy's.....and a ford too.

So if my charge rate is steady at 14.2 or so, do that not correlate to a steady charge current ?
Someone else mentioned the overheat thing, but it's winter time here (and most places). So that would mean overcharging but I am holding steady around 14.2 ??

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Originally Posted by DennyW

...When you do a charging test, check the battery voltage before starting, then, when the engine starts, idle it up to 1500 or so, and hold it steady. The charge, and voltage rate should Decrease, and level off. If it stays at the higher rate, the battery is junk, or the voltage regulator is not working correctly...

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I'll give that a try...thanks Denny.

Everbody seems to be on the same wavelength here. But we have to be missing something. I know this is hard to do if it's not a common, "natural" problem. Is it an induced problem? Have you added anything to the system that may be a cause to this? Remote start, battery isolator, big honkin stereo with a power booster? Shorted trailer wiring? Just throwing stuff out there, and seeing if it sticks! Had a cigarette lighter stuck in a customer car, ladies kids were fooling around with it, holding it in. Took out part of the wiring and the dash electrics wouldn't work all the time, that was a treat to find. Of course, nobody knew how that happened!! I still think your going to find something off beat and goofy when you do.

Sniper,
Nope, the thing is bone stock (save for my imaginary hemi). I changed the alternator (1x) and the battery several times. I did install a cassette deck at some point in time. Nothing special. It's wired into the factory connector so I could easily disconnect it. I'll disconnect it for giggles, clean the battery, get it tested (although my battery load tester says it's good...not a computerized one, analog with a toggle switch and two clamps), and stick it back in there and test out the charging system more in depth as Denny described.
Right now I am using it to troubleshoot the lights on my Biscayne....

I appreciate the help guys!

Well Poop! Another great train of thought out the window. Your just not going to make this easy are you!! "I just don't know." ( as I throw my hands in the air) Got to maul this over some more.

A while back I had a '76 Cadillac that would blow the top caps off the battery (two different batteries). Made a nice "gong" sound hitting the hood when it happened :LOL: Turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator. Replaced alternator, problem solved. Although it sounds you're on your second alternator already, may be good to give it another look....

-Chris

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Originally Posted by DennyW

If it stays at 14.2 all the time, it is over charging. I*f a battery has a bad cell, or 2, it will want to charge all the time. Double check the battery as far as the cells being good.

Each cell is 2.2 volts on a 12 volt battery. If 5 of those cells are 2.2, and the 6th one is less than 2.2, all the other cells will try to charge that cell to make it even. Like a bucket with holes, and you are trying to keep it full, but it doesn't fill up. :LOL:

The Battery has to be good, and fully charged to test the charging system correctly.

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actully 2.1V per cel. 12.6v fully charged

oh yes to check for a bad diode in an alt, turn a DVOM to A/C volts, start engine, hook positive to the alt output wire, and ground to the alt case, anything over .5V A/C indicates a bad diode.

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Originally Posted by Matt167

oh yes to check for a bad diode in an alt, turn a DVOM to A/C volts, start engine, hook positive to the alt output wire, and ground to the alt case, anything over .5V A/C indicates a bad diode.

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you keep saying DVOM....is that a DVM ? same as a DMM ? I'm guessing it is....I'll try that too.

Digital Volt Ohm Meter. big company that makes them is Fluke.

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Originally Posted by DennyW

Your getting to many what if's right now. :LOL: :LOL:

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Thanks for the additional info...

Either you guys are helping to fast or I am working too slow. ...I'll get back in a few days after I fix my bisc and am done with the battery.:D

Many batteries and a change of altenator. looks like the problem is not the charging circuit. The problem is heat. Winter or summer, it's the same heat source. You've got the battery too close to the exhaust manifold. There should be a tin or aluminum cover around the exhaust manifold. It's there to protect the battery. Most guys tear it off because it's ugly, and gets in the way when changing plugs. Put some kind of metal barrier between the exhaust manifold and the battery to absorb the heat. If the battery is mounted forward next to the radiator...Same problem, same solution.
Had the same problem with my Duster, and my Pinto. I was the one who tore off the ugly covers. Couldn't figure out the problem with the Duster, so I sold it. Found the problem in the Pinto, it had burned a hole in the side of the battery.

Quick question: As you know, the battery in question was moved from my truck to my car for trouble shooting (my car's wiring) last saturday. At that time, it had 12.2v and passed a load test (barely, border line weak). Well, last night I went out to work on my lights again and first measured the volts @ 12.2. I ran through the running lights and blinkers, all good. I turn on the headlights and my blinker slowed down. I immediately checked the battery again and it was at 9.5v
I shut off the lights, disconnected the battery, and it slowly crept back up to 12v. Does that seem to indicate a bad or weak battery? I would not think it would lose that kind of power over five days. Total "on" time between saturday and last night was only about an hour or two and I pulled the cables every time I finished. I think it's bad?
I put it on a trickle charger and left it alone.

I was gonna check the water/acid level but it says "do not remove caps"...

I need a battery for my biscayne anyway so I figured I would replace the one for my truck (again) at the same time. I admit, I hate messing with large acid filled automotive batteries. Something about caustic substances that makes me uncomfortable...I don't know enough about them.

Yeah but what I'm saying Denny is that the battery came straight out of my truck with almost a full charge. In the past I've left my lights on all day and still had juice to start the engine. In the bisc it was pulling 14.7 amps with all of the lights one (high beams included) and most of the two hours or so I was using it, it was just the running lights.

The engine was not running (it a fresh build, I am borrowing the battery to make sure my electrical is 100% operational before I fire it up). I will check the water tonight. What do I add if it is low? Regular water? If not, where do I get the stuff to add?

I know it all sounds confusing. I ought not to troubleshoot a donor battery, from another vehicle, with a possible charging system problem, while I am using to diagnose the electrical system in the "battery borrowing" vehicle... :confused: :eek: ...need to get my ducks in a row.

No need to reply (except for the water question). I'll remove the battery in question, put it back in my truck, and buy a new one for the biscayne.:whacked: I'll make all of the checks we have discussed, regarding my truck, and get back with you.