Enclosed Trailers

Im getting ready to buy an enclosed race car hauler. I have raced dirt tracks for years but have always pulled an open trailer. Now im racing drag cars and think its about time to buy a enclosed trailer. I sure hope some of you guys who already own one can answer a few questions for me.

1) Is it better to have aluminum or vinyl interior walls and ceilings? ( not into painted plywood)

2) Theres a huge differance in price between say a Pro-Line trailer and a Pace trailer, is it worth it to pay the extra? I dont think i will be towing over 5-6 thousand miles a year. Are Haulmark Trailers as good as a Pace trailer? If there are better bang for the buck trailers out there please let me know ( Northern States suppliers )

3) Are the channel framed trailers as good as the boxed frame trailers? I have always pulled a channel framed open trailer without any problems.

Plain and simple, i guess im asking what brand of trailer you guys would recommend. Yes price is a big factor.
I talked to a guy at Pro-Line the other day and he informed me that a 2007 enclosed 24ft trailer with vinyl walls and ceiling, any colour i wanted, 10,000 lb. rating axles was in the $5,000.00 price range, I thought it was a good price, but are the trailers junk or are they worth the money?

Any help is always appreciated.
Thanks

I 've ownd a U.S.Cargo 24 four footer. We pulled it a bunch of miles with no troubles whatsoever.I would shy away from the vinyl walls in a race enviroment,they mark and tear easily. Funny thing on your comment "it's about time you got an enclosed trailer". I'm going the opposite direction, We are going to pull the kids 305 sprint car on an open trailer. Its Just kinda kewl pulling a race car down the road and collecting all the thumbs ups,grins & waves..:whacked: :)

Ya i have to agree 110%, it is kewl to pull the race car on an open trailer. Everyone talks to you at the gas stations, people ask where your from and where your going, everyone wants a closer look at the car etc. Hell, ive had so many parents stop me because they wanted a picture of there kids sitting in one of the race cars that it sometimes took a bit longer to get to the race tracks...ha ha ha...but, when its for the fans and kids, I always made time.
My favorite trailer was the one i sold with my dirt track modified. It had a 8ft x 8ft walk in work room on the front and the car was on the open part at the back of the trailer.
But, hard to find those trailers now, i built that one from the ground up. ( wasnt as pretty as the manufactured ones, but it worked good for me.)

Well, I've had a Pace, a Chapparal, and a Featerlite. My new one is going to be a Featherlite.... Best pulling trailer I've ever had, not even so much as a blown tire in 15,000 miles on the old Featherlite, only reason I'm getting a new one is I need more room. I believe the name costs a bit extra, but they also bring a lot better $$$$$ on resale.... If you plan on keeping it forever though, IMO the Pace will do just fine. As for the walls, I did mine in pre-painted aluminum, very durable. The vinyl is ok, but it does tear and rip easily. Final point I will make is if you are CERTAIN you need a 24 foot trailer, then get one at least 2 feet bigger, they're always too small!!!!!!

I have a Haulmark 20 footer.

The interior length measures 20' 4".

Gross is 7000#.

Price two years ago was right at $6000.

It pulls nice and has worked out well.

Plywood walls are not a problem and in fact an advantage.
You ain't gonna live in it.

Plywood makes it easy to mount hooks etc. about anywhere you want.

i was a happy pace owner also , untill my new 48ft pace showed up here . i alled pace direct to ask about a new 48 ft trailer ( after totaling my 44 ft ) they said they had a dealer in N.C. that had one . i payed them with a money wire , they said they would deliver it . it showed up here in the rain , i was happy UNTILL it stoped raining that day , it was hail damaged on one side .
i called them they said i was out of luck , to bad , go to he$$ . i called pace , they told me i was my fault .
after 3 weeks of calling pace ,the attorney general of N.C. and the dealer . i got no help , i still have a new 48 ft pace trailer with hail damage .
SO DO NOT BUY A PACE TRAILER BECAUSE YOU WILL GET NO HELP .
since then i have bought 3 24 ft interstate brand trailers an i am happy with them .

Keep in mind that fancy floors and other add-on's take away from what you can carry.

The 7000# gross on mine worked out well for transporting two roadsters and the shop from Sunny California to Sunnier Arizona.
Three trips fwiw.

The trailer weighs right at 3000#.

The pic shows my 2200# 31 on 32 rails roadster sitting in the normal spot.
Set for best balance etc.

Also seen in the pic is the potty room.
It doesn't take much room and the girls love it.
Beats heck out of the big green plastic box at the races.

The stand up front - bolted to a couple of crossmembers - holds an 1800# capacity boat trailer winch.
It drags the dead runners up with no problems.

I had a 1600# boat winch on my open trailer that had fairly steep ramps and it would drag 3300# cars up easily.

This pic shows the lightweight construction of the potty room walls.
Lots of ways to do it, but 1/4" hardwood plywood and 2 x 2's were easy.

The door jamb on the right side is a piece of aluminum angle.

The door swings on a 48" piano hinge.

When you buy your paper towel and TP roll holders, be sure to get the type that has a little friction.
I used a free running one for the paper towels, first trip the roll unrolled all over the floor.

Thought I had a pic, but couldn't find it.

Anyway, added four more floor tie-downs like the HD ones the trailer came with.
As well as several other lighter duty floor tie-downs and some eye hooks on the fender interiors and on the floor where you won't trip over them.
Invaluble when hauling the shop stuff.

Don't be afraid to bolt stuff to the floor, I lag screwed the lathe - sans carriage and tailstock and off the table - to the floor snce it's difficult to tie down well.

I see a lot of guys hauling this size - and similar - trailers with a standard hitch.
Do yourself a favor and get a load equalizin hitch and sway bar.
Makes a big difference.

C9x your setup looks great,was wondering what you are using to tow with and where the potty came from.:LOL:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blow by

C9x your setup looks great,was wondering what you are using to tow with and where the potty came from.:LOL:

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Thanks.

It worked out well and makes a heckuva storage shed....:LOL:
All kidding aside, it takes about 15 minutes to get the few things out of it so it can be used.
I make a point to have it reasonably available.

Potty is a self contained Thetford.
Available at most any trailer store or camping/RV supply house.
I mail ordered mine.
With the chemicals they use, cleaning them is easy and not a problem.
Just watch out in the winter if the temps drop below freezing.
The pump should be empty and the reservoir & holding tank section should be dry as well.
Seems like the potty was about $110. or so.

Fwiw, I used to use one of these on a sailboat and sliding down some big waves and running rough water in the ocean, no problems.


Anyhoo, tow vehicle is a 2002 Ford F-150 SuperCrew with 5.0 liter.
I see guys buy this pickup with the 4.6 liter and it's not long after they're looking for heavier duty stuff etc.
The 5.0 liter is geared for towing and it really worked well.
Ford used to call this truck "their light 3/4 ton."
It has a 3/4 ton rear axle, big brakes etc.

Do a search for the F-150 board for more info.


We moved the shop, lotsa stuff - and the trailer was only a few hundred pounds over gross - in temps of 107 degrees F., A/C on and headed up the long and steep 12 mile grade going east on Hwy 68 up from the Colorado River at Laughlin, Nevada.
Some days, running on level ground, the temps were 109 - 110 degrees.

We did most of our move in July and August, across the desert from Central California to Las Vegas where we staged stuff at daughters house and then took it to Kingman, Arizona.

No probs with the pickup and it did amazingly well.
Nice part was, we didn't have to shut the air off.

I can't say enough about the Ford pickup, it did the job, got 10 mpg with truck and trailer loaded and had no problems keeping up with traffic.
Even if the traffic was in the slow lane - like Baker Grade out of Baker, California going toward Las Vegas.
That grade is close to the ultimate test for a towing vehicle.

Baker, California is down in a dry lake and the summer temps can be fierce.
Granddaughter and I took the last trailer load over and did the run at night.
0400, climbing the Baker grade, the temps were 95 degrees.
Lord only knows what they were during the day.

Fwiw, the Ford proving grounds is right down the road from where I live and they constantly test pickups and cars in the big loop running down I-40 to Needles, up the winding road to Laughlin and up the long grade to where they can cut across to the proving grounds.

They tow funny looking HD tandem axle - very short - trailers that have a dynamometer device on board as well as other recording equipment.

Sometimes the new models are 'disguised' with small black bra's and canvas at pertinent points.

55,000 miles on the pickup, no problems at all, replaced only the front disc pads and the original tires are still on the truck.
Looks like they'll make 60,000 miles with no trouble.

Sweetie loves the F-150 and calls it, "her truck." :)

Ya...where did that potty come from...looks like it has some kind of moisture or gas detection guage sitting on top of it...ha ha ha..( kidding...just couldnt let that one get by )

I like the toilet idea, my girlfreind hates the public washrooms also ( the wife hates them to...ha ha ha...kidding) But it is a good idea for the woman. I do like the aluminum or vinyl interiors because it looks cleaner and is alot easier to keep shinny clean.

I see why you buy the featherlite's Dave, they are really nice trailers. But, they are a little to rich for my blood at this time. (maybe you will offer me a dam good deal on your used one though...ha ha ha) My cougar would just fit into a 20ft hauler with cabinets at the front, but it would be tight, thats why i was thinking of a 24ft trailer. Or maybe now after the bathroom idea a 28ft trailer, plus i would have extra room to store the lawn chairs, luggage, small motor bikes etc.

Ok, here the deal guys, I live in Northern Ontario Canada, and the closest drag track to me is almost 600 miles away. So when i say im hauling the car to the races, Im really hauling to the races...ha ha ha. I used to race dirt track modifieds in Thunder Bay Ontario and that was only a 200 mile haul, so it wasnt that bad. ( accually ya it was...ha ha) Now maybe yous can understand why i cant afford to spend to much money on a trailer, If i spend all my money on a trailer i wont have any left to pay for the gas to and from the track.

Alot of people ask me why do i still race when its so far to the track, well, we all know the answer to that question dont we. Its because we love to race, and because i really enjoy being around my 21 and 8 year old sons. They were brought up around racing and enjoy it also. So we go to 4-5 races a year and have fun together as a family.

Holy crap kennyd...how many trailers do you own? You have boughten 3 24ft trailers and still have the pace with hail dammage? ( is it the one for sale on racingjunk web site advertised with hail damage?

Forgot the pic....:3dSMILE:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by maxed_out_rpms

Ya...where did that potty come from...looks like it has some kind of moisture or gas detection guage sitting on top of it...ha ha ha..( kidding...just couldnt let that one get by )

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Yeah, it's the ol volt/ohmmeter, I was in the middle of installing the fluorescent light for the potty room.
They're polarity conscious . . . which was a surprise to me.

I don't know what the other trailer guys do, but the wiring in my Haulmark won't let the two trailer ceiling interior lights work unless the truck ignition is on.

Far better imho to have a separate trailer battery, have all the lights plumbed to it and just have a charge wire from the pickup.
The potty room light has it's own switch at the light.
The ceiling lights have a switch near the door.

I'm guessing Haulmark wires their trailers this way so the trailer lights don't drain the truck battery overnight.


My little brother runs a 24' Wells Cargo.
Nice trailer, it has a potty room as well.
In his case, it was an option and has a skylight/vent overhead.
I think he put a light in the potty room, but it's only needed at night.
(My Haulmark ceiling vent is in the middle of the trailer.
It does help when parked.

Anyway, his Henry J race car (8.13 @ 166 mph) is probably 14-15' long and he has room for lots of stuff.
Workbenches up front, rollaway bolted in just inside the door hinges (left side if you're in the trailer looking out).
Shade poles etc. on the left wall up high.
Electric winch that plugs - mechanically - into a socket in the floor at the front, floor jack, jackstands, chairs etc.

Fwiw, my roadsters are both 12' long.
They have stock frame horns up front and the rear frame horns are bobbed off in the rear.

Not shown in the pics, is a spare tire bracket I made from 1" x 2" x .120 wall that sits just left of the left front tire.
It has provisions for an 8 ton hydraulic bottle jack and 4 way lugnut wrench.

One thing to keep in mind, leave yourself an aisle to walk down from rear of trailer to front once the car is in and tied down.
I can get around the left side of the highboy roadsters, but the spare tire gets in the way.
The right side is an easy walk....:)

Thanks for all the info,is interesting to see what others are doing.We have considered a trailer as we could also use it for extra storage.At the moment we are paying to store our Mini and I was thinking about hauling my truck to a couple of shows.I didn't want my truck to be a trailer Queen but when you live in the snow for a good parrt of the year it might help.
C9x if you are happy with the towing capabilities of your Ford,I think I should be ok with my 04 F150 5.4.
Definitely something to think about.Thanks.I like the picture as we would probably look at a 20' also.

Ok guys, I got a price back from a Canadian dealer for a enclosed trailer
My Specs were as follows:

- 2006 Pace Pusuit Platform
- Red in colour
- 2 x 5000lb torsion axles with brakes
- 48 inch side entrance
- White aluminum/vinyl walls and ceiling
- Total of 8 D-rings (4 front and 4 rear )
- Aluminum lower and upper cabinets - red in colour (straight not L shaped)
- Roof mounted air/heater unit
- wired for 110 volts with 2 plug ins at front of trailer and 2 at rear or trailer
- 2 ceiling mounted 4 ft floresent lights for 110 volts
- Plywood floor

The dealers price is $16,215.00 + 15% taxes = $17,497.25

Does that seem like a fare price or a high price? Can i save alot of money by buying it in the States?

Thanks for all the input so far guys, greatly apreciated

What length of trailer???? Bumper hitch or 5th wheel???? If that is for like a 24 foot trailer, seems way too high too me..... Oh yeah, is that in Canadian dollars? What's the excange rate to US dollars??? 15% sales tax????? Man, how the heck can you afford to live up there?

That would be $15,215 USD... seems a little high to me. Honestly buying an enclosed trailer is like buying a new truck or car.....buy used to advoid the depreciation hit. I bought my 2001 24ft Wells Cargo Auto Wagon used almost 2 years back for $6,500, although I got a killer deal on it since the trailer was worth 10-12K. Search your local classifieds and scour racingjunk also.

Holy crap kennyd...how many trailers do you own? You have boughten 3 24ft trailers and still have the pace with hail dammage? ( is it the one for sale on racingjunk web site advertised with hail damage?[/QUOTE]


i still have a 48 ft and a 24 ft ,but i am thinking about another 18ft .
no my 48 is still here , the hail damage is not so bad unless its almost dusk .

I found this trailer from Pro-Line Trailers, there asking price for it just the way it is in the puctures is $4,800.00 plus taxes. Talk about a price differance. Add another $850.00 for the aluminum cabinets installed and im at $5650.00 plus taxes. That sounds pretty dam reasonable to me, but it has vinyl interior walls and ceiling, and as you guys were mentioning, maybe thats not a good thing. The good thing is, i dont have to drive 5000 miles to pick it up, i can pick it up right in Elkhart Indiana which is only 1300 miles away ( ya ya ya...its still far enough..ha ha ha)

Have any of you's seen or had one of these trailers?...are they any good? I have been looking at racingjunks web site for a while now, and all the trailers that have the interior completed are in the 8-10 thousand dollar range anyways.

This trailer is a 24 foot trailer with 3500 lb axles....If i upgrade to 10,000 lb GVW axles and go with the same trailer but 28 foot instead of 24 foot, the total is $7,500.00. ( american money ) Still pretty dam reasonable to me for a brand new trailer. ( about $8625.00 Canadian ) + the taxes at the border...another 15%...so that would total to just under the $10,000.00 mark.

I still say i was born in the wrong dam country....ha ha ha

Yup, one of the circle burners here in town runs a pro line. He's had it for about 3 years, still works and looks great. I don't have a problem with the vinyl walls, they'll clean up with some household cleaner and a rag. Decide you want to upgrade some day you could always pull them and replace with the colored aluminum panels or something, too. That entire area around Elkhart is loaded with trailer manufacturers and is a very competitive market for selling them....

I bought a left-over 2002 Pace Pursuit 24' in 2003 for our set-up. I now wish I had bought a 28'. It is a bare bones unit that didn't have any options other than the front stone guard. I got a super deal on it, and was still able to have the "new vehicle" warranty. This thing tows like a dream. One small issue I had was the fact that my car has 3" of ground clearance, and is really fat. For that reason, I had to build a set of ramps to get the car high enough so that the sides would clear the wheel wells in the trailer. It works out perfectly because I can also store things like the canopy's and other things under the car. I mounted my winch off to the side and mounted a "D" ring in the middle to keep the floor clear when the car wasn't in there. I also mounted my 4' florescent lights to the outside of the ceiling against the wall to light up the sides rather than the top of the car. Painted plywood walls are very easy to clean and it also makes it easier to mount things. I'll see if I can find some pictures.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by maxed_out_rpms

This trailer is a 24 foot trailer with 3500 lb axles....If i upgrade to 10,000 lb GVW axles and go with the same trailer but 28 foot instead of 24 foot, the total is $7,500.00. ( american money ) Still pretty dam reasonable to me for a brand new trailer. ( about $8625.00 Canadian ) + the taxes at the border...another 15%...so that would total to just under the $10,000.00 mark.

I still say i was born in the wrong dam country....ha ha ha

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You may be able to upgrade to 5000# (each) axles in the 24' model.
Haulmark had one like that when I bought mine, but I didn't know it at the time.
So far, a 7000# gross has worked out ok, but if I'd had the 10,000# gross trailer I could have brought more stuff with me when I moved.
20 ton press, 200# brand new quality bolts and nuts, lockers etc. and a bunch of other neat stuff got left behind.

You may find it advantageous to get the higher gross weight trailer.
Weight has a way of sneaking in over time.
I try to watch it with mine, but the added stuff probably totals 200# so far.

The red looks great.
Nice part is it should be easy to find in the sea of white trailers at the races.
My little bro's trailer is light gray and that helps when I'm looking for him in the pits.

A couple of advantages I can see with the white vinyl walls & celing.
A little light will go a long way.
Plus, the dead air space between roof and ceiling will add a bit of insulation.

The heat comes through the natural aluminum colored roof on mine, but it strikes me that you would do better.

C9x, Ya they will up grade the axles to 5000# axles for an extra $500.00, which is still very reasonable. But after thinking about it, the closest track is almost 600 miles away, so maybe a 28 foot trailer would be better for me so i would have more room for parts, luggage, bikes, nagging girlfreinds etc. to travel in instead of the back of the truck.(he he he) Now I'm thinking it would be better to have a little extra space then not enough space.

My Cougar weights in at close to the 3000 # mark, then add the weight of the trailer, parts, tools, compressor, generator etc etc, and ya, the 5000# axles would defenetly be the way to go.

At first i was looking at used 40-48 foot trailers so i can have a living quarters in the front, but after rethinking the idea, it would be way cheeper for me to just rent a motel room for a few nights instead of paying all the extra money in gas to tow a trailer of that size and weight. In Canada its a little over $4 a gallon for gas.(1200 miles round trip to track and back) Plus, if anything happened to my tow vehical, its alot harder to think of a freind with a one ton dually then it is just a 1/2 ton to pull the trailer with. Hey, what are freinds for...right?.. ha ha ha

After rethinking about what you guys are saying, maybe the best idea would be to but the cheeper vinyl walls that are already in the trailer, cut the bottom 2 1/2 feet of vinyl off and put painted plywood there instead. (or just screw it right over top of the vinyl) That way i still have the durable walls near the bottom ( because thats where everyone seems to leave there boot/scrape marks ) and nice glossy clean looking upper walls and ceilings.( Ive seen trailer with carpet in that area) As for hanging items up, maybe I will just take a couple 4 foot lengths of flat steel 1" x 3/16", weld hooks on them, paint them to match the trailer, then screw them threw the vinyl walls and into the studding of the trailer, strong, cheep and will probably look good also.

Its amazing how much more you learn and think about by asking people.

By the way, Pro60chevy, I really liked the idea of the lights down the side instead of down the middle. Im hoping my car fits between the inner fenders so i dont have to make a ramp system. Even with a winch system, if the doors do not open at all because of lack of room between the inner fenders of the trailer ( theres 81 inches between the inner fenders of that trailer), then i got problems because my cougar has lexan windows that do not roll down, so i cant just reach in and steer the car. BUT, where theres a will theres a way.

Maxed out.

You don't need to weld up a piece to bolt on the walls to hang stuff on.

Get some hooks at Home Depot or similar and mount them with sheet metal screws to the - most times - 1" square tubing that goes up the walls.

You can see how many square tubing pieces are in my trailer by looking at the underside of the roof.
Most times you can get stuff right where you want.

Take a look at the first pic I posted where the hanks of rope and the like are hung up.

Install a fire extinguisher where it can be reached just inside the door.
Cheap insurance....

Here are some pics of the inside of mine and some of the things I had to do.

http://1960belair.8m.com/images/Trailer/Trailer-1.jpg

http://1960belair.8m.com/images/Trailer/Trailer-2.jpg

http://1960belair.8m.com/images/Trailer/IMG_0585.jpg

Winch tucked into the left side behind the cabinet.

http://1960belair.8m.com/images/Trailer/IMG_0589.jpg

Me thinks you did a great job pro60chevy, even looks like you must have been around C9x's trailer, i see the extinguisher just inside the back door. My backyard shop is 26 x 28 and i have 4 fire extinguishers in it, one never knows when shit happens.

Your car must really be low to have to build those ramps in there. This past summer i used a buddies open trailer to haul my car around on, and i had to place my floor jack under the trailer jack, crank the trailer jack as high as it would go, then use the floor jack to lift up on the trailer jack, lifting the back of the pickup and front of the trailer just to get the angle right, or my exhaust pipes that aim out the side of the car would scrape the back end of the trailer. I was thinking more of putting a winch under the cabinets so its totally out of the way.

I originally had the winch under the middle cabinet, but I needed to put an air compressor under there so there wasn't any room left. At least where it is, I can get at it to unlock the freewheel lever. If it were under the front cabinet it would have been too difficult to get at.

I had to build those ramps, without them I only had 1/4" of space between the wheel well and the lower part of the car.

That extinguisher came in very handy one day at the track. The guy beside me started up his car and it burped and caught on fire. Sure is a handy place for it also. I may even put another one up front beside that door also.

I dont blame you at all, if you compare the cost of having to try and replace your car versus the cost of another extinguisher, its like money in the bank.

Im thinking of putting in an idustrial grade tile on the floor. That way im hoping that if i have a small oil leak it will just wipe up and not stain the wood floor.

I have a friend that put carpet on his floor and about 3' up the walls. It looks great but I prefer the tile floor for the reason you mentioned. As you can see in the pictures, I didn't do it. :CRY:

Here is a picture of my trailer in the caravan we had moving from south texas to north carolina....i dont have any pictures of the inside, but it has the 36" front door, 60" driver escape door, ramp rear door with fold out extension. I have a cheap $50 wal-mart winch i bought for recovering a 77 trans am (which i want to upgrade to a way more powerful in floor unit), plywood walls....i think thats about it, anywho here is the pic:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...p/100_0032.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 51deluxe

Here is a picture of my trailer in the caravan we had moving from south texas to north carolina....i dont have any pictures of the inside, but it has the 36" front door, 60" driver escape door, ramp rear door with fold out extension. I have a cheap $50 wal-mart winch i bought for recovering a 77 trans am (which i want to upgrade to a way more powerful in floor unit), plywood walls....i think thats about it, anywho here is the pic:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...p/100_0032.jpg

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The driver escape door looks like a good deal.

I'm guessing the car door - on doorslammers - opens into the opening so as to make life easy.
With 60" width available it looks like you have some latitude for moving the car fore and aft for good trailer balance.

I've seen those doors before, but other than an additional door I didn't know what they were for.

Probably helps a lot in the ventilation dept. although I find my trailer has good airflow if the side and rear doors as well as the roof vent are open.


One thing I noticed on my 20' Haulmark was the rounded front panel.
It proabably helps to streamline the trailer a bit.

Fwiw - Haulmark and other mfg. make a V-nosed trailer.
That strikes me as a good deal airflow wise plus you get a touch of extra room up front.
I see a lot of big horse trailers with the V-nose so there must be something to them - other than storage for horse fuel....:D

You made the wife drive the bigger truck didnt ya?...ya big meany..:LOL: :LOL: (kinda cute...have her phone number?...:D )

If the $50.00 winch works good enough to get the car in when needed, then why pay top dollar for a expensive one. At your age you still have lots of time to upgrade...Like the saying goes, Rome wasnt built in a day ( But thats because i wasnt on that job...:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: )

C9x, i have looked into the V nose trailers, a buddy of mine has one. The only problem I seen is the awkward way they have to install the front cabinets, Mind you, i seen them done out of aluminum from the factories on a few web sites and it doesnt look that bad.

Around here they use the V nose for snowmobiles they can drive in and drive out the front.

Yup, thats what my buddy bought his for also. He has the ramp doors in the rear and front, drive it in the back and out the front. Sure makes life alot easier. Up here in Canada we see alot more snowmobile trailers than we do enclosed trailer...:LOL: :LOL:

Its funny though, I was born here in Canada where we have alot more winter than we do summer, Ive raced snowmobiles, dirt track modifieds and drag cars, And even after being raised in the cooler weather i still prefer the warmer motorsports.....:D :D :D Maybe its the old bones starting to feel the cold....:eek:

yeah she drove the penske since my trailer was loaded to the max, i figured i would give her the better pulling of the trucks. (my dodge is a 1/2 ton and rated at 12,500 gcvwr and i had it loaded to just under 14K lbs)

Snowmobiles no got reverse?