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Thread: where to get cab dipped?Texas
          
   
   

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  1. #12
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    so.cal
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
    Posts
    1,942

    Yeah ,I have heard steer clear of the chemical dip too.MY buddies 49 ford project looked really nice when it came back from being walnut blasted and has a good ruff finish to grab the primer and paint.Walnut shells are no joke either,there dang near hard as a rock , are easily removed from all the crevices where they gather and will not strip the finish from all the places you will not get paint into.
    One of they key words after blasting or dipping is"encapsulate".A good primer /sealer /etcher , what ever is your preference needs to be thinned and shot or brushed into all the little crevices and let soak into the seams.I like to get the little cotton brushes on a wire , goop and smear it in all the nooks and crevices to where I can visually see the stuff seep thru the seams ,weep holes ,etc.Then put on a sealer coat with a brush , spray rig or cotton dobbers on both sides of all the seams,then shoot the primer sealer over the whole thing.Now you are ready to start the mock up or let it sit with out fear of rust.Then to do any body work ,panel repair ,you just sand to bare metal the area your working on and shoot primer /sealer ontop of that area when finished to seal it back up untill the final body prep,or your next session.
    Last edited by shawnlee28; 11-17-2006 at 01:44 PM.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

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