Miss 32 roadster could really use some help!

Hi everyone. This is my first time posting in this area. I need your help locating a smaller size power booster or remote booster that would fit my 1932 ford roadster.

See, I have old school buick finned drums on my roadster and they really don't brake worth a you-know-what. But I don't want to upgrade to disk. I was told a power booster would improve brake performance by about 30% or more. Good enough for me! However, I have custom cross members on my frame that are (SEE PHOTO BELOW) in the way and unless we cut through the frame we cannot fit a conventional power booster/master cylinder unit. So the next best thing is a remote booster I could shlap a bit further down (on the other side of the cross member, or anywhere else under my frame). I have room, just not enough room to fit the current larger round remote boosters I have so far found on the market today... And no, I don't want a remote booster in my trunk eating up what little space left I have - it is so small as it is! Anyone know of a compact remote booster?

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

http://www.bettatalk.com/images/brak...rossmember.jpg

FAITH
www.myhiboy.com

check the Geo Metro's or even some of the small jap trucks, they both have tiny boosters.....joe

Faith, if your Buick drums don't stop you, something is wrong with the system. I have always used these with no booster, and they stop on a dime. One day my then-wife was following me in her new car, and the light changed, so I came to a stop instantly. She had ABS discs all the way around and almost climbed the trunk of my '27.

I would check bore size on the master cylinder and also that your brakes are adjusted right. If you are using early Ford backing plates, etc (as I am) they are a little tough to get adjusted properly (ask Brian).

They really can stop a lightweight car well if set up properly.

Don

Who needs brakes anyway, there overrated, just kidding

I'm with Itoldyouso.

You don't need a booster on these little cars.

Power brakes don't make for a more powerful brake, they make it easier to apply the brakes due to less foot pressure required on the pedal.

I run 67 or so Mustang discs on the front of my 32 and 68 Merc wagon brakes (11" drum) on the rear.
No booster fwiw.
It stops fine with pedal pressures equivalent to an unboosted 72 Pinto.

What you may want to do is replace the possibly hard linings with a softer lining.
A lot of guys opt for hard linings in an effort to get a performance brake from a drum brake - and they do - but for general street driving a softer lining will do the job.

The Buick drums with the proper linings will stop your lightweight Deuce just fine....

The first thing to try (which you may have already done?) is to adjust the brakes. Depending on the year of the backing plates, the brakes may not be self-adjusting and may require frequent attention. Jack one wheel up at a time and spin the tire while you giggle the rotor with a screwdriver or the special brake-adjusting tool in the backing plate slot until the brake shoes just drag the wheel/tire to slow down (forward and backward). Without fenders this should be easy to do and the idea C9X mentioned of softer brake shoes is a good idea and shoes are relatively cheap. Back in the 1950s when I was a gas station "attendant" there were many older cars still running on the street and it was fairly routine that when you put a car up on the lift for an oil change you (me) would/could quickly go from wheel to wheel and adjust the brakes on all four wheels. Self-adjusting brakes (by backing up) on the later models made this unnecessary but maybe you have the earlier type? Anyway those Buick drums are so neat that you need to try a few things before considering changing to discs. Nice picture of the bracing in your Deuce frame! You have a great car!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

This months Rod & Custom has an article on a new electric booster system that looks pretty neat. The company is called ABS power brakes. I'd bet they are pricey,but ya might check em out. They are located in Orange,California.
www.abspowerbrake.com

Don has an excellent point on adjusting the brakes.

Is there any chance your brake pedal is hitting bottom on the frame or engine before it develops full hydraulic pressure?

The pedal should be able to go all the way to the floor without touching anything along the way.
Keep in mind the engine may torque over (due to decelleration forces as well as accelleration forces) - a little or a lot depending on the engine mounts you have.)

Looking at your photo it looks like things probably clear, but sometimes builders forget to stroke the brake pedal after the engine is in to make sure it's not hitting anything.

(This from a guy who built a remote oil filter bracket for a stock 50 Plymouth coupe and forgot to allow for the column shifter to go up for 2nd and reverse without hitting the filter can. Was kind of a bummer cuz the first bracket was aluminum with countersunk lightening holes. Next bracket was higher and rather plain, but it worked well. The offending - but good looking bracket hangs on the wall of shame with all the other failed ideas....):(

To further Don's comments above as far as adjustment, Ford used in their passenger cars, 1939 to 1948, a Lockheed design brake. It was not one of ol' Hank's better ideas. These brakes were marginal without some regular maintenance and only fair with on the cars they were designd for - on a 2500 pound street rod, plenty good . Not only did the star wheel adjuster need regular attention, they needed to be centered on the drum surface. If they were't centered, your effective brake surface would be limited, often to just a very small patch, top or bottom. There is an eccentric that allows you to center the linings. Another thing or two to look at is whether the shoes are on correctly. With the Lockheed design, the LONG shoe goes on the front rather than the opposite with the later self-energizing Bendix design. Lockheeds are rigidly fastened to the anchor and then to the backing plate while Bendix are floating on pins and springs. Another item to consider is whether those 50 plus year old Buick drums have been turned to the point that standard thickness brake shoes don't have almost full contact. Then if you have the pickup backing plates, then my guess is that they are Bendix style - another bag of worms. But even these have adjustable eccentrics and drum wear and brake lining thickness and installation have to be considered. Whatever, drum brake linings need to be "arced" (ground)to the drums OD.***

My preference is discs, but then my project car is being built new

***S/B ID

Oh yeah, now I remember how miserable those old brakes were!!!! Also remember why I run discs on everything!!!!!

So, whadda ya think Faith?

You don't need power brakes on that little dude.

You do need disks on all fours, with adjustable valve on the backs. I had 68 Camaro with all drums that would not stop well at all when wet. I believe you drive yours occasionally in the wet stuff?

Look at my photos; you need a WILWOOD aluminum master, adjustable rear brake valve (in photos), and 4 wheel disks.

Light car, manual 4 wheel disks, very happy and safe driving!

IMO drum brakes are too outdated ..................

Kitz