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Maybe it's because I'm using Summit hose and Earl's fittings, but I cannot get the ferrule over the hose. I've taped the hose and cut it with a 32-tooth hacksaw. I've taped it and cut it with a cutoff wheel. I clip the ends. As soon as I take the tape off, the braid expands, and I can't get it inserted. Any hints?
Holley has the Earls catalog on line - all except the instructions.
Here is a link to instructions
http://www.amstreetrod.com/TechHelp.php4#swivelseal
You should be able to get the ferrule over the hose before you cut
the hose to length.....it takes a motion like you are screwing the ferrule on.
Also, I have found that the hacksaw is the worst. A cutoff wheel on a dremel tool makes a better cut....cuts right thru the tape.
The wire braid hurts when it sticks in your finger, doesnt it?
-4 and -6 are the hardest, bigger is easier.
mike in tucson
Thanks for the instructions. That's what I remembered. However, I didn't remember it being this tough.
I'm using -8 hose, and it's no fun either. I went to a cut-off wheel on a mini die grinder, and that worked . . . pretty much. Trying to stuff all that stainless wire inside with your thumbnails basically sucks.
Jack
I haven't used that hose in a long time but if I remember right I came up with a way to do it. I used a small hose clamp to hold the wire to get it started then removed it and finished from there?? I think thats how I did it hope this helps
I use less than 2 wraps of masking tape (more than 1 and less than 2) and cut the hose with a cutoff wheel. I do not remove the tape before I put the ferrule on. I twist the ferrule only in one direction, usually clockwise looking at the end of the hose. The masking tape does not affect the joint so you can leave it on if you want. I oil the end of the hose to insert the fitting.
Duct tape is too thick to slip the ferrule over.
The thin cutoff wheels throw a lot of stainless hose debris so wear safety glasses and a face shield.....otherwise you will have stainless wiskers.
mike in tucson
Not sure where I saw it but I think one of the carb companys came out with a fixture for doing that....... seems like it was Holley.:confused:
MM64 :cool:
The best tool for cutting is available in the summit catalog: a pair of cutters ( looks like bolt cutters ) with curved blades (( )) and they really make a clean cut. I use electrical tape, and run a double wrap around the cut, then cut through the center of the tape. I leave the tape in place, and spin the ferrule over the hose. ( just as the fellow already posted )
I use a cutoff wheel as Robot does.
Cut slow and the ends come out nice.
I've had good luck without the masking tape on, but it looks like a good idea that could make life easier.
There may be additional information about assembly at airplane sites.
Search for "Experimental Aircraft" or "Homebuilt Aircraft."
One thing I've found that helps is to use a small screwdriver to tuck the errant strands of stainless wire into the ferrule when you're starting the braided hose insertion into the ferrule.
Especially so with #4.
Bigger the stuff is, the easier it gets.
#8 is easy and #10 is a pleasure.
Using Never-Seize on the threads is a help.
Or you could make friends with your local Custom Hose Shop. A cold 6 pak of MGD usually works good. :)
I can identify 43 individual braided hoses on our rock crawler....so 86 hose ends.....it would take more than a six pak of MGD for the hose guy to do all of those!!! I always do the first end before cutting the hose to length so I get the first end done before I commit to the length.....the hose tends to get shorter as you recut each time you screw up the braid.......
I bought a set of the new hose fixtures that supposedly help but doing it the manual way is faster most of the time.
mike in tucson
I may have got lucky ,..but I used the tin snips and it cut like butter,the rubber on the inside ,keeps the braid from kinkin ,collapsing like you would think.
Ouch . . . ow . . . oooh . . . ouch . . . ow . . . got one. Ouch . . . darn . . . ow . . .ouch . . . dangit . . . got two . . . half done.
Actually, I'd buy the cutter, but with only four to six to do, it's not worth the cost. Also, I suspect that the Summit imported hose is not quite as easy to work with as real Earl's hose.
The tape process seems to work OK, but it takes a rigid tape like masking tape. The electrical tape stretches due to the heat of the cutter.
A small correction . . . when I said I don't use masking tape, I meant during assembly.
I do use it when cutting.
I'm guessing your Summit imported hose comment is right on.
I tried to use some Russel hose about 12 years back.
Crappy stuff and it went into the trash and onto my, "never buy that stuff again...."
I've done well with both Earl's and Aeroquip hose and fittings.
Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it right . . . :LOL: Seven tries to get two. Of course, if it were baseball, I'm batting 286. I think the difference between the Summit hose and the Earls hose is that Earls bonds the braid to the liner. Summit may trie, but it ain't workin'.
I use Aeroquip.
I've used a combination of Earl's, Russell, Aeroquip and Summit fittings and any sort of combination of hoses - and I have the scars to prove it !!!
All were a pita, especially the -4 I'm using for the trans cooler.
This is a Speedway site, but I saw it demoed a while back slicken' -- (well you know what I mean):
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm
I think C9 has more AN hose than I do, but I'm working on catching up.
(Someday the body and chassis will reunite - for the LAST time)
That should be a Canadian project. You could call it "The Hoser." Like the air cleaner, though. :LOL:
I cant believe you put that air cleaner on there :LOL: ,now where are all those loose nuts and bolts gunna fall into? :whacked:
The most fun with that air cleaner was emptying it onto a nice big piece of pumpkin pie before I could use it :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
Aeroquip is my favorite, tried some of the others but always came back to it....
Here is the website for the braided hose tool
http://www.koultools.com/
[B]Mike:
To late for me on the tool to install the ferrel to the hose as I have finished the plumbing on my car after many frustrating hours.After much loss of blood and religion I found a process that worked for me.I took a piece of .010 dia.SS wire and twisted one loop around the braibed hose,cut close not to disturb the twist,cut the hose with a thin dremel wheel up close to the wire,twist the ferrel counter clockwise with slight pressure and as you are turning the wire slips back as the ferrel is going on approx.1/8 in. Cut the wire with a small wire cutter and presto no bleeding or choice words.Worked for me.
Don In Austin**) **)
Don,
Your method gave me an idea. I put a small hose clamp on the stainless, then used a cut-off wheel. When I loosened the hose clamp, the ferrule slipped right on. No blood, no problem.
Say Jack I think thats what I said in reply#4:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Charlie,
I'm supposed to remember more than three posts back? At my age? :LOL:
The fittings went on OK, but it took me most of the day to run the two hoses. It would have been much easier if I'd seen the glitch in the trans cooler lines before everything was assembled. I switched from hard lines and rubber hose to stainless with banjo fittings on the trans. Luckily, I was able to use the same clamp mounting holes for the stainless that I did with the hardline. Still, I had to raise the front of the body (four times!) off the frame to get enough room to work.
I chopped a hole in the floor (see thread called "Thanks, Kyle . . .="=), and I'm going to make an access panel so if anything ever goes wrong, I can get to the cooling lines without lifting the body - again.
Yeah The best laid plans of mice and men. I wish I could say I only took the body back off my 53 4 times.:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: I have a very small oil leak in the cooler line and I can't get at it. I may just rerout it. I'm just glad playing with cars is so much fun.**)