A couple days ago I had the master cylinder power booster replaced, and as I was driving in town I noticed the brakes were getting hot and then the brakes just locked up. What could be the problem???????
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A couple days ago I had the master cylinder power booster replaced, and as I was driving in town I noticed the brakes were getting hot and then the brakes just locked up. What could be the problem???????
You are just a little tense! Relax, and take your left foot off of the brake pedal. Don't two foot your pedals. It's all just a matter of time. Like in all things, if one is not relaxed, things just go wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Damien_63
I've had this happen a couple of times.
Possibly the brake caliper pistons are not releasing.
Clean the pistons, cylinders and replace the seals.
That piston should back off a 1/16 of and inch or so when you release the brake pedal.
I had a rear wheel lock up on me in my 67 P/U I was just driving home and it happened. I got out looked to see what was wrong and couldn't find a thing. Got back in and it was fine. Till I used the brake again. To make this short a rock or somthing kicked up and flattened my rear brake line on that side. When I steped on the pedal it let the fluid by when I let off it went back real slow.
I had the same problem with an LTD that I had just replaced the Brake booster on. The newer brake booster wasn't as thick as the original and therefore let the shaft push in the master cyclinder. (Causing the brakes to be on all the time). They will work for a short time, but will then boil the brake fluid in the lines and cause the brakes to lock up.
Fortunately I had some tools with me when this happened and I had it fixed within about 10 minutes.
Just make sure that there is a little freeplay in the brake pedal before taking the car out for a test drive.
I got the same problem with my 66 C 10, but not to that degree. Only does it on one side, front right, and it just releases slow. I am pretty sure there is a piece of crap in the brake line which is acting as a valve. The only real solution ( for me ) is to replace the steel lines and flush the rubber lines ( they have been recently replaced). BUT.. it doesn't get driven much anyway.