Thread: Roadster Stuff

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Looks like you have the square tubing covered - that tough stuf to work with without kinking.

I hope so.
His bender gets the radius down fairly small and it will probably be enough for my needs.

You're probably aware you can cut kerfs in square or rect tubing, bend it so the outer curve is smooth and then do many welds . . . and grind.

Another slick way is to cut the top piece - the outside of the curve - loose and do the same with the bottom.
Remove the side pieces.
Make new side pieces out of plate to match the square/rect tubings wall thickness, these will be the curve you want.
Bend the outside and inside pieces to fit, weld and again . . . grind.

Labor intensive, but it makes a nice curve.
For one or two curves anyway.
More than that and maybe something else would be moh bettah.


One thing you could do that would help is to make a sealed gas tank compartment.
Then vent the compartment.
Air in, air out.

I used to have a blue water capable sailboat and the gas tanks locker was vented with formed soft PCV plastic vents connected to a pair of nautically rated looks like a dryer duct hose, but higher quality.
Above the deck the vents had a 90 degree curve to them as well as an extended upper lip to keep the rain and spray out.
One vent faced forward, the other faced aft.
It worked well and opening the gas tanks locker lid, the smell of gasoline fumes was not detectable.

Obviously you're not gonna want a nautically themed boat vent, but something along those lines could be done so as to vent a roadster tank overboard.

One thing I would not do is to run an electric fuel pump in the gas tank compartment or anywhere else inside the body.
Use of a bulkhead fitting to get the fuel and vent lines through the floor makes for a clean setup.

Setting up a bottom of the tank outlet similar to what the drag racers do is a bad idea and in fact is against federal law as far as new car production goes.
Better to use a circle track style outlet that comes out of the top of the tank.

Here's a pic of my transmission cooler.
Works well except for slow running the high mountain twisting roads.
The not-too-loose converter (2400 rpm stall) generates heat under those conditions because the engines running under the lockup rpm.
Other than that, the cooler - in conjunction with a Derale vented trans pan - does the job.