Thread: Roadster Stuff

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Looks like you have the square tubing covered - that tough stuf to work with without kinking.

I do have a steel cage tying the firewall more securely to the floor and cowl -it was really loose and as long as the doors are in place or the 1x1 tubing is between the door jambs, similar to your aluminum pieces it is fine.

The car is on a, for no better term a pallet or frame, and on roll around dolly at present, but is a bit too low. I'll build it 6 or 8 inches up for ease of painting. Since it's tough to find someone when I need to move the car to the frame or horses, I bolt a chain to my cowl bracing and use a spreader bar to my added trunk bracing and uses a chainfall on one end and a comealong on the other. Haven't had a problem yet. I do like your idea of eye bolts but seems to be an interference when bolting to my 'A' chassis. Probably works better on a '32 frame.

The castered frame is wood and made up with a lot of screws and 4x4 bracing-it doesn't twist, then topped with the pallet mentioned above. I found some very nice ball bearing greasable casters which were from the abandoned Phaltzgraff(sp) pottery factory in PA (they moved to China !!!).

I'm not sure how I'm going to paint the underside - it doesn't seem like a good idea to turn it over - Brookville steel is draw quality and very soft. I DO NOT need any more problems with deformation. Probably brace the door openings again and hang it from the ceiling and crawl under it(with safety chains of course).

I have to fully think out the trailer hitch - using the '32 horns does leave me a couple of attaching points outside the horn covers and bolted up with the spreader bar bolts but its not 'clean' - too visible. Plus want to use nerfs as you say, rather than clunky looking bumpers - and a buddy has a set of like new '32 style bumpers.

Here's a photo showing the trunk bracing in black, the cowl and body bracing in gray. The wood is for upholstery