I'm an Automotive Diagnostic tech and electrician and I am a little dissapointed over the harnesses that are available. What kind of changes would you guys like to see in aftermarket wiring harnesses?
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I'm an Automotive Diagnostic tech and electrician and I am a little dissapointed over the harnesses that are available. What kind of changes would you guys like to see in aftermarket wiring harnesses?
Lets start here. As an expert, how are you disappointed in the current fare?
Don
man let me tell you what i have a lt1 in my truck, and for my to get a harness for the engine then have the computer reprogramed its around 700
them to buy a kit for the truck is like another 700 do the math that seems crazy for some diferent color wires and connectors that where probably assembled in MX
Harmonb
I am not going to name anyone cause I dont know who is lurking around in here. I have seen lots of circuits through the ignition switch and headlamp switch that are not protected properly. Lets say there is 10ga feed to the ignition switch and from the switch to the alternator there is a 14ga wire. There is one maxi fuse or fusable link on the circuit and what do you think will happen when the alt shorts out.
I can't tell how many cars and trucks I've built and I have never bought a harness. I use fuse boxs from doner cars solder all main conections and run new wires to every thing. KITS not me.
OK.... How do you correct the situation where the alt could short out. Where would you add protection? Would that be fusable links?
thanks
the big wire going to the alt is not switched. its hot all the time and i would use fusible links from the bat. or starter to feed the alt. the head light switch is a circuit breaker, so you don't need any other protection. if the alt. shorts out you would need a new one anyway. **)Quote:
Originally Posted by scanmyride
I have had alternators short out internally and drain the battery. My point was that a short on that circuit could cause the brown 14ga wire to fry along with the engine harness. Anyway does anyone have a good source for wire? I am paying $.09 a foot for 16ga.
So if here is already a fusible link at the starter would it still be a good idea to put a fusible link at the alt?
I bought a wireing kit called ITS A SNAP,from ebay for $130.00. It has 20 circuits,color coded and lettered. I am happy with it so far. It does have the mini fuses. I installed it on my 39 Dodge,and used a chevy 1 wire alternator.
In the past I have installed a Ron Francis kit in a friend's street rod. I was impressed with that kit. However, his prices are out of sight now.
I just bought a kit from Hotrodwires and I'm very impressed with the whole deal. There is a fusible link at the starter. The tech is available by phone on nights and weekends for any kind of stupid questions. It has quality components and their attention to detail is good. The price is right, but the instructions could use a few more words. I would purchase from them again.
sorry, duplicate post.
I think the reason they run a fusable link on the Alt and Starter is because there is a power source on either end. A short somewhere in the wire can cause excessive current from the Alt or Battery if the car is running.
I just did a boat. The two wires into the fuse panel are not fused. Maybe there will be a fuse for the positive some time in the future, but those high amp marine fuse blocks are expensive.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8...0/DSCF0790.jpg
I just bought a fuse block from Blue Sea Systems and a bunch of bulk wire. Everything else was built around that.
That CAN'T be a boat dash, it's too neat and organized.:3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: (You should see some of the factory jobs we work on)
Really nice job, and Blue Seas makes really quality products for the marine envirionment. You mention no fuse on the wires coming in, are those the pos and neg feeds from the battery? If so, simply put a 30-50 amp circuit breaker right at the battery so the entire system is protected in case of a short.
You did a really neat, well thought out job on this one.
Don
I also bought "It's a Snap" for a "T". Alot of wire too short. Lettering is too small and rubbed off while sweating over it. Poor instructions!