Wheel Hop

More like dancing all over. I never had this happen before. My guess is ladder bars will help. I took my little (53 ford 2 dr wagon) hotrod out today for a quick run . Its not finished yet but what the heck. Anyway I got out on the black top locked the front wheels pushed down on the throttle and all I got was a bunch of wheel hop. I let off and tryed a launch from dead stop. same thing. Engine, well masaged 350,(400+hp) 2 - 650 edelbrocks, 4/11 gears, 32x17.50-15s out back, leaf springs. If I go with ladder bars how far forward should I mount them or dose that mater?

You may be confusing ladder bars with traction bars. Ladder bars would be a complete suspension system which would replace your leaf springs. All I've ever used with leafs is something like the Lakewood bars that bolt on. I have seen and heard a lot of good things from some of the other fellows who have run Caltrac bars. I've never used them, so don't have an opinion.

I wouldn't do that pedal to the metal routine any more until I got some sort of anti-wrap device installed or it's gonna get costly breakin' stuff.

I have a pair of lakewood bars but didn't think they would work. Guess I'll try them tommorrow.
Thanks Charlie

Trust me, they'll work.

If you put ladder bars on a leaf spring rear you will also need to install housing floaters on the leaf springs where they attach to the differential or you will have some way big problems as the leafs and ladder bars will not be travelling in the same arc.

OK
I put on the traction bars same thing. I think they are to far down from the spring. The snuber is about 4/5" from the spring. Can I shim the rear of the bar to bring the front up. Like I said I never had this problem before. Air presure at about 13#. I'm sure I could make some shims with holes so they are traped by the bolts.

Here are some shots of what I have.

I couldn't get the picture to come up, but....no....the snubber needs to be just a fraction of an inch off the spring eye.

them snubbers are way to far away. u have to get them closer to the springs like tech says. post some pics of that there right:cool:

this is waht i have for traction barsAttachment 15344

the one on the left looks much better

It looks to me like you also have 2 inch(at least) lowering blocks on there and that is compounding the problem. It gives the axle extra leverage against the spring. I also have them on mine and experience similar problems. If you wish to retain the leaf springs, I suggest you have them re-arced to set your ride height where you want it. That will take some of the bow out of the springs and bring the traction bar up closer to the spring. Also those look like just clamp on bars, they are not as effective as the Lakewood type that actually replace the lower spring pad and have the U-bolts going through it. The Cal-trac bars Richard mentioned also replace the lower plate and I have heard very good things about them. If you are really serious about making your suspension work, you need to get rid of those lowering blocks.

On mine I have decided to bite another bullet(having bitten several already!) and install a triangulated 4 bar. Mine will be with an air suspension so I can look cool when parked and still have clearance and performance when on the road. All it takes is $$$$

Pat

If you're gonna run leaf springs you can deleaf them for ride height put full
floaters on the housing so the housing can twist by itself and run 4 bars to
keep the thing in place. The bars you have will do nothing witn any HP at
all.

Good Luck, Ron**)

i agree with stu too much arch in the springs ,probably real stiff. the susp will not wrap up enough to even have the traction bar toutch the spring.
the lowering block will only amplify the hop problem.
thay wont help much like they are now.
you could modify or shim the rear mount to bring them closer to the spring and see how that helps or dearch the spring get rid of the lowering blocks as it will be lower and then see how things line up.

Seems I'll have plenty to do tomorrow. I'll let you guys know how it comes outI knew I should have gone with a 4 link.
Thanks for the help
Charlie

theres nothing wrong with leaf springs but they have to be set up correctly to control wheel hop. there are a lot of fast cars that run fine on rear leafs. you could look at extending your traction bars length to meet up right under the front spring eye to take full advantage of it.

Anyone know the website for Celtracs traction bars??
Thanks Charlie

Yea I think I need it. I wasn't planing on buying rearend parts when I'm getting the bucks up fo the glass. Lets see Go fast and streight**) Go bouncing but have glass?????:whacked: No I gave up figuring I'd drive this (leagely) on the street or track this year. Just got the wiring all laidout. Got the interior to work on. Geez you'd think I was doing my first car. Maybe I'm getting older/slower/more cautious. Anyway
Thanks DennyW for the info.

Charlie

i posted last night about my truck. same problem different setup. 72 c10, stock rear. stock beams 5" belltech drop springs in the back Djm drop arms and springs in the front. i got a new motor w decent power in it, but cant get it to hook up.ANYBODY?

two totally diferent set ups,but one thing for sure the rear is doing things it shouldnt:LOL: