Welding a step in my frame?

I now have two complete frames for an F-1 pickup which means I have some extra steel to play with. What I would like to do is cut the frame in the front, and weld it back together with the front section placed on top of the cab section. The frame is 6" deep so this would be a 6" z in the front.

My question is what would be the strongest way to weld this up? If I just welded both sides, and then put a boxing plate over the whole thing and welded it up on the back would that be sufficient?

Could I do the same thing on the back with an extra length of frame rail between the top and bottom to give me a 12" drop?

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/936/4586/88006.jpg

Thanks CHAZ

I'm not a fan of this sort of frame z, but in this case it should be ok. I know you are trying to get by with a minimum outlay, so if you do the welds well, and then plate everything over with flat plate stock, you should be ok. Just plate it on both sides, make sure it is straight, and weld it fully all the way around. Plate both the inside of rail and outside of rail.


Don

I would look very closely into doing this mod before you start cutting.There is a lot of work that needs to be done when z'ing a frame.Can you get what you want by installing a mustang II front cross member?You are trying to lay the frame on the ground,right.A New front cross member and step notch in the back should get you there.I have looked into Zing my frame and after researching it ,I quickly change my mind.JMO Also resale value will be way low no matter how much pretty paint you put on it.

This is going to be a low buck rat rod. My first attempt at building a car so I want to keep it cheap. No fenders, no hood, just a cab and radiator shroud. I know I am opening a whole can of worming cutting the frame, but I want to get the cab just a few inches off the ground. I am already flipping the spring eyes, pulling every other spring, and switching the axle from below to above the springs. I am going to channel the cab the width of the frame (6") also to get it a little lower. I should need a 12" z in the back to make up for the 6" in the front. The "legs" at the sides of the firewall should cover the front z, and if I put bed sides on they will cover the back.
CHAZ

I'm no big fan of laying rails on top of each other, much prefer fabricating a kickup instead. Whichever way you do it, you are going to have to have everything on a very solid and level surface to get the frame to come out straight.