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hi all, i have a 79 nova that is currently being taken apart and redone....... my question is about the master cylinder and if there is a way to level it out. i hate the angle that it was given from the factory. why did they mount it at an angle in the first place? thanks, mung
probably to clear the valve cover.
whats up tech, been reading your posts for a while...... always good stuff. is that a guess?? ive never seen a stock engine compartment in a 79 nova so i cant be sure why they did it, but im sure youre right about needing clearance for something its an odd upwards angle. i think ive seen it on 70's camaros too. i wonder if its safe to level out? anybody else got a clue?
Some of the options were at that time Air Conditioning, and it may have been that GM just used the same angles on all the models at that time for clearence...I don't see any problem with leveling it out- as long as the fluid resevoir holds the full mark.
I don't know either; but, I do know that my Firebird has one helluva rake to it as well. This is the new booster and master cylinder; but, the old one was exactly the same and the firewall is perfectly correct near as I can tell.
I'd be careful of the rod angle when you level it, just make sure that the travel is the same. You may have to re-drill the pedal arm at the top.
Jim,
Yeah, I was awful worried about it at first; but, after checking it over a few dozen times and looking at other cars as well, it appears to be correct. Just seems awful aggressive. One thing to note is that in the pic, the car has 15" wheels in the front (to clear the calipers) and 14's in the back. So there is a slight angle induced that makes it appear even a little more agressive than it will be in the end. In any event, I am definitely keeping an eye on it. Because I don't wanna be usin' no telephone poles ta' stop it.
if redrilling the rod is all i have to do ill be happy. :) thanks for the replies guys.
I beleave Tech is right about the clearance but more on the interior side than the valve cover. I just took a 78 Camaro apart for its break system you can and I have mount them level. You will have to modify the mounting for boster to do it. After all with a torch and welder all things are possible.
it don't make no dif. how its mounted as long as the inlet and breather holes (in the bottom of master cylinder) stay covered with brake fluid.
there will be no chrome on my car...... parts will either be painted or aluminum in some form of finish(except for the bumpers and trimwork). as far as i can see then, that bracket that connects the booster to the firewall will be modified (bent) to a more acceptable angle. awsome, thanx guys
something new has come up, maybe...... i thought that the power brake booster when hooked up to the manifold vacuum would create a vacuum inside the booster and not continuously pull air. eg., i disconnected the vac hose from the booster to the engine and sucked on it to see how it worked (sounds wierd, i know), and well, the air just kept coming. is that the way its supposed to work? and yes, i took the check valve out and put the hose directly up to the booster grommet to make sure the leak wasnt coming from the connections.
boosters use vacume and atmospheric preassure to create the force, but I don't know if it is enclosed and should run out of air, or if it sucks past to create the force.
I think that if you pull the check valve out from the booster that it will equalize the pressure in the canister...this must not be a good thing as it voids all returns. I am not sure if you'll be able to get it pressurized properly again...does anybody know how to do this? Denny? Or am I off the point on this one?
Quote:
Originally posted by hambiskit
I think that if you pull the check valve out from the booster that it will equalize the pressure in the canister...this must not be a good thing as it voids all returns. I am not sure if you'll be able to get it pressurized properly again...does anybody know how to do this? Denny? Or am I off the point on this one?
it won't make no dif. just plug it back up and it'll be ok.
ok- kewl, I wasn't sure on that one.
Thanks Mike.
thanks for the posts, hi denny, i know where the booster is but am just wondering if my booster is working incorrectly by letting air to get sucked through it continuously, thereby not creating a vacuum inside of it. right now it is letting air into the engine full time.
hambiskit, that check valve is replaceable, along with the grommet that it plugs into on the booster.
again, i thought that the engine sucked air out of the booster until no more air is left thereby creating a vacuum inside of it and not allowing any air to pass into the engine except when the pedal is applied. or am i wrong?
if the motor cant pull a vac. on the booster, then the booster is bad. what kind of brake paddle do you have?Quote:
Originally posted by ucmung
thanks for the posts, hi denny, i know where the booster is but am just wondering if my booster is working incorrectly by letting air to get sucked through it continuously, thereby not creating a vacuum inside of it. right now it is letting air into the engine full time.
hambiskit, that check valve is replaceable, along with the grommet that it plugs into on the booster.
again, i thought that the engine sucked air out of the booster until no more air is left thereby creating a vacuum inside of it and not allowing any air to pass into the engine except when the pedal is applied. or am i wrong?
sup s10, brake paddle? im confused as to what exactly youre asking? but, i guess the booster is bad cuz i can continuously suck air out of it. i think tomorrow ill check the engine vacuum with and without the booster hooked up. this will be really interesting since my rear cylinders have always run leaner than the front and im running 15 in/hg of engine vacuum with a 236/238 @ .50 cam on a 5,000 mile 383.
as denny stated, if the booster is bad you would have a hard paddle. if you are sucking on the booster with your mouth, thats not gonna tell you nothing. hook the vac. hose up, and see if you hear a vac. leak in the booster.Quote:
Originally posted by ucmung
sup s10, brake paddle? im confused as to what exactly youre asking? but, i guess the booster is bad cuz i can continuously suck air out of it. i think tomorrow ill check the engine vacuum with and without the booster hooked up. this will be really interesting since my rear cylinders have always run leaner than the front and im running 15 in/hg of engine vacuum with a 236/238 @ .50 cam on a 5,000 mile 383.
denny, i read it three times.... and it was a good explaination of how it worked, but what i wanted to know was what you just posted this last time. thanx for answering in a detailed manner, it is very much appreciated. its always good to learn how things work.
s 10, gotcha now. yes, the pedal has felt a little stiff lately and that is what prompted my messing around with the booster vac line. the master cylinder and calipers are all new.
what did you say??????:HMMM: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:LOL: Ok, I try to keep posting different things until I get it right for the person to see what I mean. :LOL: Me an Mike are like that. :LOL:
if the booster was bad you would know it, if you would like to see how it feels, pull the vac. hose off of the booster(plug it off) and then get inside and apply the brakes, and you'll see how hard the brake pedal gets.Quote:
Originally posted by ucmung
s 10, gotcha now. yes, the pedal has felt a little stiff lately and that is what prompted my messing around with the booster vac line. the master cylinder and calipers are all new.
just an update in case somebody else comes across this..... i took the master cylinder off the booster and the seal (called the front housing seal) between them was cracked. that is where the air was coming in from. now i gotta find a place that has that seal because the autozone and the gm dealership do not carry it.