I agree with Mike. I know of no circuit breaker/fuse that will handle the amps a starter draws, so usually the positive cable just goes to the battery straight.

Also depends on if car is street driven or raced at a strip. If raced, the NHRA or whomever, will dictate how you mount , vent, and switch your trunk battery(s). If street driven, you just want to use good common sense.

I use marine grade battery cable, because that is my industry, and the cable is high quality, and available at most marine centers. I use crimp on terminal ends, because that is what is specified in boats, and I am not great at soldering. I use shrink tubing on all connections, run the cable through grommets, or even slip a length of bigger hose over it and shrink wrap the hose in place where it goes through the trunk, etc. I secure the cable with clamps to the frame every foot or so, and use a large enough diameter cable to offset the long run.

I also try to terminate the negative cable on the bell housing, or a starter mounting bolt, so I get maximum kick at the starter. If you have to use a frame ground in the trunk, use a braided ground strap from the bellhousing or starter ground to the frame in that area.

Use a battery that is maybe a group 27 or 31, secure it in a bolted down box or tray, and if you can afford it, use an AGM battery as it is gasless. I forget what the A stands for, but the G means Glass and the M means Mat. I just got one for my Sons rod, as he is sharing space with the battery in the cockpit, and I didn't want him to get fumed.

With the long run, you take on some additional problems of current drop, but a strong battery with alot of cold crank amps, large cables, and tight clean connections and a good ground, will usually get the job done.

If you are going to go to the strip, get the rule book, and build your system as they outline.