residual preassure valve, 10 LBS, where to find

I need a 10 LBS residual preassure valve, becuase I have been told the MC on my car that I put in is designed for a disc/drum application, and not drum/ drum therefor the resivore to the front ( rear resivore ) does not have in the needed 10 LBS preassure valve built in, so I need an external. I see MP brakes have them for 26.00 but was looking locally, my mom checked a Pepboys whail I was at work with no luck, and I checked Advance Auto and the kid at the counter never looked any thing up, I told him " 10 lbs residual brake preassure valve for custom application " and he replied " Don't gots " right after, never even thought about touching the keyboard, and I doubt that a residual preassure valve is a hot item, and he would actully know if they had them or not, so I said whatever and walked out, he was the only 1 there so there was no other hope, altho I bet they can get them. any other places?

i was just looking for some brake parts at the same stores ,they dont carry special parts like that

would you believe speedway motors?

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Originally posted by lt1s10
would you believe speedway motors?

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Guess I'm gonna have to break out the book to find the part # so I can order it.

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Originally posted by Matt167
Guess I'm gonna have to break out the book to find the part # so I can order it.

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pg. 49 16.99+taxes and s&h pt #835-2601876

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Originally posted by lt1s10
pg. 49 16.99+taxes and s&h pt #835-2601876

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Thanks, I just found it too. Isn't Wilwood stuff better than MP Brakes, yet is a lot cheaper guess it is better for me

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Originally posted by Matt167
Thanks, I just found it too. Isn't Wilwood stuff better than MP Brakes, yet is a lot cheaper guess it is better for me

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DONT KNOW MP, but i've used wilwood.

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Originally posted by lt1s10
DONT KNOW MP, but i've used wilwood.

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if ya wanna check them out www.mpbrakes.com I never heard of them b4 but someone over on TFFN pointed them out.

I just purchased both a 10# and a 2# residual value from Total performance inc.
Try the following link.

http://www.tperformance.com/

jc:toocool:

Ummmmm. Why not just put on the correct master cylinder for drum/drum brakes????

something i found out, most master cylinders dont have resiual valves. they are in the metering block .
only the older units have the valves built in.
i used a master from a 73 nova no residual valve init.

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
Ummmmm. Why not just put on the correct master cylinder for drum/drum brakes????

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I was gonna go that route, but there is a cool cheap system that allows the use of common GM brake calipers and some ford rotors that spec within the GM caliper clearences ( I can look up matches at school through the refrence book), using my spindals, by using brackets that take place of the drum backing plates and mount the calipers. simply remove all brake stuff, including backing plates, then take the drum to a machine shop and have the swedge cut off, then have the remaining plate turned until it will fit in the rotor, then bolt up, but to make a long story a little shorter, If I get the correct master than I have to turn the current 1 in on the core so when I wanted to convert to disc fronts, I would need to get another master cyl ( 35 bucks ), this way, it is only 16.99 and I can easily remove it when I go to disc brakes. if you want to check the kit out, it is www.scarebird.com

Kewl deal, Matt. Now I understand what direction you're going. Just a note, and I'm sure you allready know, but use a double flaring tool when making all your brake connection on the changeover. Should be a good set up for you, whatever you do with the Falcon eventually disc brakes will be an excellent safety upgrade....

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
Kewl deal, Matt. Now I understand what direction you're going. Just a note, and I'm sure you allready know, but use a double flaring tool when making all your brake connection on the changeover. Should be a good set up for you, whatever you do with the Falcon eventually disc brakes will be an excellent safety upgrade....

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Actully, I did not know about using a double flaring tool on the changeover, I have to buy a flaring tool and a tubing bender anyway, I'll buy a flaring tool that does both, double flare and regular, the 1 I have only does single and is worn out and stiff

Double flaring tool is a great investment, I would recomend spending a few extra bucks and getting a good quality tool vs a cheapy. I have a Snap-on that I've been using for probably 20 years or so, and it still works excellent. Matt, I might suggest an extra peice of tubing and practice the technique of double flaring before you try it on the final product. Double flaring is not difficult, once you get the hang of it, I'm sure you'll use it on everything you flare. It makes a much better flare, way more resistent to leaking.

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
Double flaring tool is a great investment, I would recomend spending a few extra bucks and getting a good quality tool vs a cheapy. I have a Snap-on that I've been using for probably 20 years or so, and it still works excellent. Matt, I might suggest an extra peice of tubing and practice the technique of double flaring before you try it on the final product. Double flaring is not difficult, once you get the hang of it, I'm sure you'll use it on everything you flare. It makes a much better flare, way more resistent to leaking.

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I have an extra peice of brake line that I'll probably never need, it's 3/8" or somthing and was going to use it for somthing but never did, I could practice and keep cutting the flare off.